Little Eye candy ...


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I don't usually post on this forum, but thought you'll might enjoy these:




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These were imaged with a Nikon D200 with a Sigma 105mm Macro.

Shot in RAW @ ISO 400, f/22 @ 4 seconds and 6 seconds respectively, converted in Photoshop CS, white balance adjusted to the temp of open shade. Image then had an ever so slight unsharp mask applied, then was downsampled and cropped to fit the format.


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here's a couple of others



here's the same colony imaged with a remote strobe filtered (with a #10); part of my sunset on the reef series.



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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8081830#post8081830 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drummereef
Insane pics! do you have a full tank shot?:thumbsup:

Yes I do, as a matter of fact ... :)



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Wow those are amazing. I gotta say your photography skills are second to none either.

And I really think that I need to put my dog in my avatar to fit in on this thread, lol.


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yeah i always love your work too i've been admiring your shots on photograph area really nice!!!... so you mentioned what setting you used but what about shouter speed?? or you have it on auto?? and when you refering and when you referring 4-6 seconds whats that im still playing with my D70's but is kinda hard with all the things you have to MOD.. lol ...

Is crazy cause i have the ISO thinkg, the shutter speed then another shutter spd so what u have all those ?


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I shoot in manual mode, when you partially press the shutter release you'll see a small meter near the bottom of the viewfinder display (this is also duplicated on the LCD display on the top of the camera), this is your exposure meter. If the bars are to the left, then you need more exposure, if it's to the right then you need less.

More Exposure = Higher ISO
Larger Aperture (smaller number)
Lower Shutter Speed

Less Exposure = Lower ISO
Smaller Aperture (Higher Number)
Faster Shutter Speed

You'll note that these are all related to one another, they all change the exposure, but the 'side effects' are different.

ISO: Changes the size of the picture element that 'sees' light; thus requiring less light to get the same exposure. Side effect: while you'll need less light to get the same effect, at some point you'll be able to see the pixels as 'grain' thus resulting in an image that appears less sharp.

ISO 100-200 is a good base for our purposes, it will maximize the sharpness of the initial image.

Aperture: (otherwise known as f/stop) The higher the number, the smaller the opening and visa versa. Obviously the larger the opening the more light will enter while the shutter is open, thus requiring less exposure time. Side effect: the smaller the opening the greater the depth of field with the lens will be and visa versa. Depth of field refers to the amount of the image that appears to be in sharp focus (from front to rear; ie. depth)

F/22 for most lenses is a good starting point, usually one of the sharpest apertures, however F/32 will give even greater depth of field than F/22, but it will require much more exposure time.

Shutter Speed: The higher the number, the faster the shutter opens and closes to admit light to the sensor, higher speeds can 'freeze' motion, however admit very little light to the sensor. Side effect: the slower the shutter speed the more your subject will tend to blur due to motion (sometimes this can be a desirable effect, usually not in a reef tank though). Also there is a rule of thumb with regards to hand holding your camera (as opposed to tripod mounting), use a shutter speed that is equal to or greater than the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens, or in other words if you're using a lens that is 100mm your shutter speed for hand holding should be equal to or greater than 1/100 sec.

All that being said, for my corals I typically clean the glass very well and wait for the skimmer to grab all the little stuff floating in suspension. Turn off all circulation and wait for all to fall still ...

I set up a baseline on my camera: (tripod mount)

Manual exposure mode
ISO 100
Shutter Speed of 4 seconds

(Depending on your lighting, your baseline may be different)
observe your meter and see what it is telling you, make adjustments as necessary. Photography is all about playing with all of the settings above to get the settings right for your shooting situation.

Hope this helps ... sorry so long winded.