live rock in sump
- Thread starter reefdog24
- Start date
thank you for your input SeanT.....would u recomend i remove the rock, or blow out the detritus once a week during water changes. the the hear future, im gonna install a light in the sump for algae growth....when i do this do u recomend removal of rock and free flot algae.......
bergzy
New member
here is one of my lr holding tanks/refigium/extra water volume/evap cooling area. i also have lr in my sump as well but this pic is much easier to get for me.
i get very little detritus build up as i have easily 2000gph+ going through there. since the pic, i have added a quiet one 4000 and several mj1200's blowing into the bottom to 'stir things up' to prevent detritus from settling on the bottom.
the seio 820 is for supplying gentle flow to the macro which grows faster than rosie o'donnels beard which in addition, i have i am guesstimating another 1000-1500gph (or more) from the main return pump that feeds the tank via 4 jets that are hidden behind the rock stack. that is why i love return pumps with a lot of gph!
the rock is marshall island, tongan branch and porous fiji. i put all the heavy dense stuff into my 125g fowlr tank at the office.
it is a fun experiment. in fact, since i installed this thing...i have excellent nitrate control and my water clarity has increased even though i inject ozone into my skimmer. i have almost zero nuisance algae issues. i attribute the decrease nitrates more so to the amount of live rock rather than the macro farm as i just added the macro not too long ago. the key is a lot of vigorous water movement. without good flow, just like in your reef tank, i wouldnt even try this.
and for you rosie fans!
i get very little detritus build up as i have easily 2000gph+ going through there. since the pic, i have added a quiet one 4000 and several mj1200's blowing into the bottom to 'stir things up' to prevent detritus from settling on the bottom.
the seio 820 is for supplying gentle flow to the macro which grows faster than rosie o'donnels beard which in addition, i have i am guesstimating another 1000-1500gph (or more) from the main return pump that feeds the tank via 4 jets that are hidden behind the rock stack. that is why i love return pumps with a lot of gph!
the rock is marshall island, tongan branch and porous fiji. i put all the heavy dense stuff into my 125g fowlr tank at the office.
it is a fun experiment. in fact, since i installed this thing...i have excellent nitrate control and my water clarity has increased even though i inject ozone into my skimmer. i have almost zero nuisance algae issues. i attribute the decrease nitrates more so to the amount of live rock rather than the macro farm as i just added the macro not too long ago. the key is a lot of vigorous water movement. without good flow, just like in your reef tank, i wouldnt even try this.
and for you rosie fans!
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bergzy
New member
hmmm,
the interesting thing about the lr in that tank is that is is way way cleaner than the lr in the main display. the tank floor is immaculate when compared to the display tank floor that has a very shallow sand bed.
there is very little sediment on the rock when i get the powerhead out once a month to blow off any detritus. the rock in the main tank has wayyyy more gunk and junk on there.
one thing i am happy with is that i finally...FINALLY...gave up on dsb's. now, talk about being a nutrient sink!!! i still like the look of sand hence, i only have a 1/2" sandbed. plus, my wife hated the tank when i had it bare bottom...hence, sand.
the interesting thing about the lr in that tank is that is is way way cleaner than the lr in the main display. the tank floor is immaculate when compared to the display tank floor that has a very shallow sand bed.
there is very little sediment on the rock when i get the powerhead out once a month to blow off any detritus. the rock in the main tank has wayyyy more gunk and junk on there.
one thing i am happy with is that i finally...FINALLY...gave up on dsb's. now, talk about being a nutrient sink!!! i still like the look of sand hence, i only have a 1/2" sandbed. plus, my wife hated the tank when i had it bare bottom...hence, sand.
bassnman11
New member
I keep a inch or so of sand and live rock rubble in the fuge area of my sump. There are some narcissis snails in there that keep it tidy.
ok....if im planning on setting up a fuge, (i will not be placing live sand in the fuge) should the algae and mangrove trees be attached to the rock or should the algae be free floating???
are there any advanatges or disadvantages in having the mangrove trees in small pots....ive seen that set up in an lfs....
are there any advanatges or disadvantages in having the mangrove trees in small pots....ive seen that set up in an lfs....
bergzy
New member
mangroves, while entertaining to look at, are a very slow way of transporting nutrients. plus, there is the detail where you have to keep leaves and stuff that falls from them from accumulating on and in the water or it negates all that nutrient export you were wanting in the first place.
to quote anthony calfo:
"For all my love for keeping these plants, however, I must admit that they truly are not comparatively efficient nutrient export mechanisms. It's a very simple matter. Growth overall is slow, and leaf drop is often concurrent with new leaf growth. The net gain of mass from these plants is, in fact, dismally slow, and leaf drop alone (as a vehicle for nutrient export) cannot compare to a vigorous Chaetomorpha or Gracilaria based vegetable filter."
from:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-12/ac/feature/index.php
nitrates:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm
phosphates:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm
the above articles cite using chaetomorpha as the choice macro for nutrient export. it is also the macro that i use. it is extremely hardy, grows under almost any kind of light, grows fast, easy to trim, does not attach to substrate like caulerpa (a big plus) and i have not known it to go sexual when you have a light cycle (off/on of the lights). caulerpa going sexual means that it buds off its gametes and dies...so it has a double whammy on your tank...it releases junk into your water and pollutes it additionally by dying.
chaeto loves strong turbulent water movement and strong lighting (esp in the 6500k range). i have tried halide over it but it seems to like pc lighting the best.
refugium thread:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=462212
the light i use:
if you can still find it at your costco. it comes with bulb, ballast and enclosure for $8.50. got to wire it yourself or get someone to do it if you are even remotely hesitant to do it yourself.
hth's a little.
to quote anthony calfo:
"For all my love for keeping these plants, however, I must admit that they truly are not comparatively efficient nutrient export mechanisms. It's a very simple matter. Growth overall is slow, and leaf drop is often concurrent with new leaf growth. The net gain of mass from these plants is, in fact, dismally slow, and leaf drop alone (as a vehicle for nutrient export) cannot compare to a vigorous Chaetomorpha or Gracilaria based vegetable filter."
from:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-12/ac/feature/index.php
nitrates:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm
phosphates:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm
the above articles cite using chaetomorpha as the choice macro for nutrient export. it is also the macro that i use. it is extremely hardy, grows under almost any kind of light, grows fast, easy to trim, does not attach to substrate like caulerpa (a big plus) and i have not known it to go sexual when you have a light cycle (off/on of the lights). caulerpa going sexual means that it buds off its gametes and dies...so it has a double whammy on your tank...it releases junk into your water and pollutes it additionally by dying.
chaeto loves strong turbulent water movement and strong lighting (esp in the 6500k range). i have tried halide over it but it seems to like pc lighting the best.
refugium thread:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=462212
the light i use:
if you can still find it at your costco. it comes with bulb, ballast and enclosure for $8.50. got to wire it yourself or get someone to do it if you are even remotely hesitant to do it yourself.
hth's a little.
