Low water pressure - any suggestions before I call a plumber?

Esh1

New member
Hi,

I'm running into an issue with my RODI unit due to low water pressure. Before I call in a plumber, I'm hoping someone here might be able to offer a suggestion.

Back ground information:
The system that I'm using a is a 150GPD , 5 stage with water saver RODI unit from BRS. It is set up in my basement, connected to a copper, cold water line using a saddle valve in my basement. I chose this line and way to connect it as I don't have a bathroom or sink in the basement or other connection option, This connection point is also the closest to a wall for mounting as well as a floor drain. The copper water line itself goes up 1 level to the washing machine and utility sink, but otherwise doesn't feed anywhere else.

Pre booster pump, the pressure gauge showed 20psi. Just enough for a booster pump to be effective, per information listed on BRS's webpage. After installing the booster pump, the pressure only went up to 30 psi. Nothing else was open / using water during this test. I was expecting closer to 50-60psi. Attempting to adjust the valve on top in either direction of the booster pump didn't make any changes. I spoke with BRS about this, and they stated that even though they list 20psi on their webpage, its still pretty much the bare minimum to get anything out of the system.

Testing out the system, when I close the purified water line off, I was able to get the pressure meter to go up to 90 psi before the auto shut off switch cut the pump off. At that point, it holds at 60psi. Once the line is reopened up, the pressure quickly goes down to 30. To test the system, turning the pump off again, it goes back to 20, and then on, only up to 30. Opening the flush valve brings it to 0psi regardless of the pumps operation. At least its consistent.

The waste water line is setup correctly, though the only option I can see with it is to open it up to flush the system, or close the flush kit so only the expected waste water comes out.

The good news, other than low pressure and slow water output, the unit is working as intended:
TDS out of the tap is 490.
TDS post RO into the DI unit is 23, 0 out. I cross checked this with a hand held meter and it read 1 to 2, so the meter connected to the RODI unit appears to be correct.

I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere, and all fittings appear to be snug.

Searching online, the only thing I can find is to adjust the pressure valve, however I'm not finding one anywhere. The house was built in 1998.
Pressure out shower heads and sinks feels average. I have not purchased a gauge to test it anywhere to confirm if its the house pressure that is low, or simply this line. The line that its fed from is the first off shoot from the cold water that leaves the water heater tank. Before the water goes into the water tank, it does pass through a water softener. From there the water heater with 1 exit line for hot water, the other for cold. Standard plumbing here.

I guess I'm a little bit surprised at how low the pressure is, and further am not sure where to go next other than bringing in a plumber. Please let me know if any of you ran into something like this before, and what you did to increase your water pressure.

Pictures of the system are attached. Ignore the blue colored line coming off the booster pump. It was only done this way because I ran out of red tubing.

Thank you for your help and suggestions!

-Eric
 

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So u are on city water that tipicaly runs about 60 psi

here is my question did u screw in the tap valve all the way before backing it out if not then u probly only made a pin hole in the pipe and just arent getting enough flow out
 
My first suspicion is that the hole for the saddle valve is too small. I've never installed one, but I've had 1/2" copper pipes get filled with gunk. A saddle valve starts with a much smaller opening.
 
Bingo! thank you, that did the trick.

PSI without the pump went up to 38, with the pump it shot up to 95 pretty quickly so I lowered it down to 90. Interesting how these pumps really need decent water pressure to operate correctly.
 
So u are on city water that tipicaly runs about 60 psi

here is my question did u screw in the tap valve all the way before backing it out if not then u probly only made a pin hole in the pipe and just arent getting enough flow out

U Da Man.
 
ironic to me that the flint michigan guy got it..
They know their water stuff now...

Nice :thumbsup:
 
In general, avoid using those self piercing saddles. Absolutely don't use them if you're also using a booster pump.

Russ
 
In general, avoid using those self piercing saddles. Absolutely don't use them if you're also using a booster pump.

Russ

+1
Was just going to post this same thing.

Best bet is to call a plumber(or DIY if you can sweat copper) and sweat a T into that copper line with a shutoff. Something like a hose bib would do the trick.
 
The holes those saddles pierce are too small, and your pump will end up starved for water.

I've seen this many times over the years.
Russ
 
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