Many years away, back the reef!

WinnipegDragon

Canuckian
So I'm sitting on all this gear:

  • PicO DB18 - All Starphire w/ Starphire cover, black Silicone
  • Tunze 9001 Skimmer
  • Apex Controller w/ Temp Probe, pH Probe, EB8, Display Module
  • Apex Lunar Simulator Module
  • EcoTech MP10wES (old white case version)
  • Eheim 100w Heater
  • AI Prime - Black
  • AI Prime Tank Mount
  • Tunze Osmolator (w/ big tub o' Kalk)
  • BRS 5-Stage RO/DI unit w/ 2 x 20g Brute Tubs
  • ~25lbs of Marco Rock
  • 1/2" Black HDPE for the bottom

This was going to be a Bare Bottom SPS cube but it just never happened. I was looking at selling the gear and tank off for a grand but got mostly lowball offers on Kijiji so one possible plan is to sell the DeepBlue and PicoSkim/Tunze Skimmer, get a custom euro-braced 36 x 18 x 18 tank with external bean overflow. 20G ish sump, add a second AI Prime, upgrade the skimmer (Bubble Magus Curve 5 maybe), add on a carbon/phosban reactor, add another MP10 (or MP40) and get a BB SPS going.

Regardless of what tank I'm going with, and it's still not decided, I can get the basic support stuff up and running, starting with the RO and mixing station, which will have a pair of 20g Brutes raised for easy drainage into buckets.

Starting the top with a torsion box:

zuf3Z1Tg.jpg


And voila a mixing station:

GvR3EPbl.jpg


Next step is installing uniseals and spouts. I'll probably run a pump and line to move freshwater to the mixing brute as well.
 
Welcome back!!!
Sounds like your having fun collecting supplies so far :)

Just a heads up looking at your list
"Tunze Osmolator (w/ big tub o' Kalk)"
In my experience the pump that comes with the tunze kit doesn't hold up to use with kalk it clogs quickly.

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Welcome back!!!
Sounds like your having fun collecting supplies so far :)

Just a heads up looking at your list
"Tunze Osmolator (w/ big tub o' Kalk)"
In my experience the pump that comes with the tunze kit doesn't hold up to use with kalk it clogs quickly.

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Funny you mention this as I have heard it many a time. My osmolator pump has been running for 6 years now in saturated kalk top off with 0 issues. I did buy a spare "just in case" as I have read others having issues when pumping kalk, but not this guy.
 
Lol don't get rid of that pump then you found the golden one evidently, I got mine and was planning on switching to balling anyway and figured I'd try it untill I was out of kalk. I didn't burn it up but it gunked up with precipitate very quick.

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I was thinking of plumbing it through a reactor anyhow. I kid knee I'll need some form of alkalinity and calcium dosing and this seems to be simple and effective.

Working on plumbing the mixing station tonight and meeting with the tank builders at my LFS tomorrow.
 
Sweet!! What's your plans for the build? Shape/footprint, gallons, stock goal?

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At this point, I am getting quoted on a 36L x 18W x 18H with a low-iron front. 50g in the display, probably 20 in the sump. Considering adding 4" of height to put 60 in the display.

Right now I'm thinking to stick with bare bottom (ABS or Starboard in black) heavy on the SPS and flow, with two to four Euphyllia for movement in the tank.

As for fish, keeping it fairly light. Ideally some of the peaceful wrasses that can go without sand (Flasher/Fairy), not sure what else.
 
Awesome!! I love the colorful wrasses and have a tank of euphelia, acropora (getting there), and zoas :)
As someone that does tank builds at 18" I'd be comfortable doing 1/4"glass but the 4" will put you in the 3/8" range. If you want the 60 gallons And have room the cheapest way would be to extend the width (front to back number). Just a heads up :)

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The plan was 3/8" for sure, regardless of height. I could go with a deeper dimension for sure, but I plan to stick with the AI Prime I have and adding another. I think 18" is really the best you can hope for on spread so going to 20"+ in depth might be a bit iffy.

Rockscape is going to be a two island style because of the lighting, hoping for the corals to form a bridge. Might put a shelf rock in though, haven't decided just yet. Should allow good swimming space for the wrasses too.
 
Just got back from the LFS and a new tank had been ordered:

36 x 18 x 18, Starfire front, black silicone, polished and beveled edges, black tape, euro bracing, black painted back, with black acrylic overflow.

Overflow will have three 3/4" bulkheads for a bean animal drain setup and the are two 3/4" return holes in the back panel.

Time to build a stand.
 
It dosent look like the legs are supporting the top part where the tank sits? Are you using the sheering strength of the screws for support?

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That's not for the tank, that's the mixing station. It's a torsion box underneath, and each leg is glued and has eight screws plus the stretchers.

It's not going anywhere lol.
 
Ah ok, you scared me. Thought the tank was going on there. I've seen some wild tank stand designs and some of them scare me [emoji1787]. Mixing water I'm not real worried about my precious dt would be getting all the support I can without looking insane. If that was for a dt eventually you may have screw loosening or rusting issues and it would be such a pain, I'd hate to see a fellow builder have an issue with something so easy to avoid up front.
But, enough lol, nice mixing station stand :)

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If you do more and are running through the Apex you can always alternate them etc. I lean twords more flow than less with a sps dominant tank.

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Yeah it's a few bucks more but especially going BB I want the flow to be borderline ridiculous.

Still, 2 MP-10s is about 3000gph, plus the return (say 600GPH), I'm pushing 70x turnover already. If I run VCA flow generators on the return lines, that adds a little more from the eductor effect.
 
Nice that's a solid stand design :)
I was under the impression most hardcore stick keepers shoot for around 100× flow, not that they get it. Keep in mind head loss on the return too, it won't be as drastic as mine running 12 feet, but every fitting and size down of your plumbing will increase the r value and drop return flow, my opinion is that most people get 75-80 of the max capacity of their pump since most are rated for 1" plumbing and a few feet with no fittings. If you invest in decent phs (like all the ones you mentioned) I believe they let you turn down flow as well by not running at 100%. For me personally if I'm considering a rough turnover calculation id assume the return was getting about 75% max rating and the ph about 90(it's just not going to operate optimum all the time) don't base your calculations on max and then make the decision. If your going mostly SPS or lps I'd base the decision on that and make specific spots for the exceptions so either a mostly low flow lps tank with a specific area near the phs for some SPS or a turbulent sps tank with some shielded areas for this lps.

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