Marineland 300DD Bottom Support

Darth_Tater

Member
I've seen a couple Marineland 300DD tanks for sale lately, and I really really like the dimensions. However, they have a nasty reputation for blowing the front bottom silicone joint.

My question is this: If I got a piece of glass cut and siliconed it to the front, along the bottom, and to the back of the tank (inside the tank and later it would be covered in sand), would this provide any meaningful structural support? How thick do you think it would need to be to provide meaningful support?

I contacted customer support and was told the lifetime warranty to replace the tank only applies to the original owner, so I'm not worried about voiding that.

Thoughts would be appreciated!
 
I've seen a couple Marineland 300DD tanks for sale lately, and I really really like the dimensions. However, they have a nasty reputation for blowing the front bottom silicone joint.

My question is this: If I got a piece of glass cut and siliconed it to the front, along the bottom, and to the back of the tank (inside the tank and later it would be covered in sand), would this provide any meaningful structural support? How thick do you think it would need to be to provide meaningful support?

I contacted customer support and was told the lifetime warranty to replace the tank only applies to the original owner, so I'm not worried about voiding that.

Thoughts would be appreciated!
What you've described (if you take it a step further and put a couple strips along the sides as well) is what my custom built 100 had along the bottom (80's, Athens GR). Euro bracing done with glass. If you can get a 2" strip of 1/2" glass cleanly adhered, you'll provide a good compound joint. You would have to ensure it's as close to "new glass to glass", much like any of the seams, for it to be truly effective.
Hope this helps.
Cheerd, Ray

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
If you google glasscages or coasttocoast tanks you will see that they do internal eurobracing along the bottom seams. I think it's a very good idea. I would think that you'd need to remove the internal fillet of silicone in order to get good adhesion.
 
Interesting. I looked at one this evening. I can get the tank and stand for cheap enough I'm far more interested than I should be. I'll have to look into this internal bracing.
 
Get a well made stand and you wont have issues.

You can add bracing but that involves cutting out the old silicon and resealing the tank with the new pieces.

Ive had my 300DD on a custom plywood stand for the past 10 years with zero issues, and I have honestly never heard of this issue with the 300DD's before and I know plenty of people who own them.
 
I've got the 300DD and love it. I just made sure the tank is flush with the stand in all places. The stand is a beast, true, and level. I bought it used as well and got a great deal. Was a little nervous at first due to all the stories about blown seams but it's been over a year and now I never think about it.
 
Get a well made stand and you wont have issues.

You can add bracing but that involves cutting out the old silicon and resealing the tank with the new pieces.

Ive had my 300DD on a custom plywood stand for the past 10 years with zero issues, and I have honestly never heard of this issue with the 300DD's before and I know plenty of people who own them.

Insert random search engine here and you will see several threads regarding 300DDs busting seams. I was going to purchase one a while back but after coming across a few threads on this portal the tank was quickly removed off my list. I love the dimensions and have seen a couple in person. Ended up going a different route in the end because, well, 300 gallons is a metric ton of water.

With regards to the OP I personally would pass on a 300DD especially used. On the other hand if you want to replace it the advise removing, cleaning, bottom euro brace, and reseal is probably the safest. Good luck either way - really nice dimensions on the tank otherwise.
 
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