Metal stand cleanup

[ReefkeeperZ]

one super important factor in rust removal is neutralizing it not just removing as much as you can, then if you want a tough finish that is extremely resistant to salt I would go for por 15 expensive but good for surfaces that were rusty.

 

[Sharpimage]

have you looked into a local sandblaster? I have found them to be cost effective for small stuff like this. Might be worth a google lookup and call.

 

[Fredfish]

I finally found something that provides a useful framework for evaluating the various products available and what they might actually do.

From this site: http://coating.ca/anti-corrosion-coating/

• C1 "“ very low corrosion risk: Heated buildings with clean air, interiors only. Suitable for: offices, schools, hotels, shops and other heated premises.
• C2 "“ low corrosion risk: Unheated buildings, rural areas. Suitable for: storage facilities, sports halls, garages, barns and other unheated buildings.
• C3 "“ moderate corrosion risk: Buildings with high humidity, urban and industrial areas. Suitable for: laundries, breweries, kitchens, food processing sites and other buildings with moderate humidity.
• C4 "“ high corrosion risk: Chemical manufacturers and swimming baths, industrial and coastal areas. Suitable for: industrial buildings, chemical plants, swimming pools, ports, and ship- and boatyards.
• C5 "“ very high corrosion risk: Buildings with almost permanent condensation, offshore and industrial areas. Suitable for: Water pipes and other industrial applications (C5I "“ industrial). Offshore and maritime constructions (C5M "“ marine).

What I ideally want is a C4 product:

Inhibitor coatings (C1 "“ C4) "“ release a chemical which interferes with the electrolyte and stops the corrosion process.
For example: all oil based coatings with corrosion inhibitor additives such as zinc, aluminum, zinc oxide and so on.

A marine 'below the waterline' inhibiting primer would probably work. Cor15 probably fits into this category as well.

Trouble is that I'm in an apartment and will have a difficult time creating a "well ventilated area" of the right temperature.

 

[Fredfish]

I know this seems like overkill to a few people, but if you are going to settle for 'good enough', you should know what that means.

From the link in my previous post, salt seems to be classified as an aggressive chemical.

to me, the appropriate solution for bare metal would be a good quality (industrial or marine) corrosion inhibiting primer followed by a two part polyurethane paint. This requires a well ventilated work space.

Fancy would be starting with an acid etch and following up with a second topcoat material like truckbed liner, though so far I've only seen marketing claims about salt/chemical resistance for these products.

Good enough, probably what I'll end up doing, would be the best anti rust primer I can apply in my situation followed by a one part anti rust topcoat. Adding a second topcoat of some sort probably won't hurt.

From what I can see, the appropriate solution does not cost that much more, maybe $50, and would probably double the life of the coating. The only downside is finding a proper space to do the work.

 

[nodak]

I have made several stands and coated them with Herculiner. Several stands have been in use for over 10 years with no rust. It is easily applied with a brush. This is a rubberized product that is used to coat truck beds. Staqnds up great and is fairly cheap. Just make sure to buff down to bare metal clean off all residue and coat.

 

[Fredfish]

I have made several stands and coated them with Herculiner. Several stands have been in use for over 10 years with no rust. It is easily applied with a brush. This is a rubberized product that is used to coat truck beds. Staqnds up great and is fairly cheap. Just make sure to buff down to bare metal clean off all residue and coat.

Thanks for the reply nodak. Its good to know this stuff actually works on a stand. I would imagine that if Heculiner works that other truck bed liners would as well. I would think that they are all more or less the same chemical composition.

I'm most likely going to go with primer, topcoat and bed liner. I already have the tremclad (came with the tank/stand) and I like the idea of a rust inhibiting primer as extra insurance.

 

[nodak]

Yes I like the Herculiner but I am sure other brands work. One thing if you use this or some of the other similar products make sure to mix properly. Some of these products do have a little texture. Just double check & make sure you have total coverage 2 coates might be needed.

 

[Fredfish]

Stripping was definitely required. 1/3 of the stand was rusty, another 1/3 had very poor paint adhesion and of the rest, maybe half was well bonded to the metal. Got a little more to strip then on to painting.