My Elegance Coral Tank setup

dla2000

New member
I just wanted to share my tank with yaw.

The Tank
20H
15lb of Ocean Direct Caribbean Live Sand.
5+ lbs of live rock
100w Heater
Bio-Wheel 200 Filter
CPR Skimmer w/ surface skimmer
CoolWorks Iceprob Chiller w/controller housed on the bio-wheel filter. (To help keep the temp. under 80)

Lights
72w pc
50/50 on for about 5 hours
Actinic on for 12 hours
Lebos Lunar Tracker w/ 1 moonlight

27w dual actinic on for 12 hours


4p3oadd.jpg

As you can see the 72w pc lights are 15 1/2" above the tank.


The only thing That I'm going to keep in this tank with an elegance coral is my 8 Polyp Dendro (5 are little babies).
 
your lights are way too high, the 20 H tank is tall enough for you to drop the pc lights to the normal hight
 
dia2000 has seen first hand what bright light can do to an Elegance. He/She isn't taking any chances. The lights are on adjustable rails so their height can be adjusted very easily. As the Elegance acclimates the lights can be dropped in stages to insure the coral gets enough light without cooking it. Sounds good to me.
 
"dia2000 has seen first hand what bright light can do to an Elegance"

I agree with that comment but these are CF bulbs, and the tank is a 20 Tall tank. I would be ok with this setup if it was a Metal Halide Bulb/ or T5's, which it is not , these lights do not produce enough par to be that high. Remeber, you can "bleach" from lack of light as well


I'll post a full shot of where i have my elegance tonight to give you an idea how close CF lights can be.
 
When designing a system for one of these newer deep water corals it is a good idea to have the ability to provide light that would be considered less than adequate for long term success. I believe that when these corals are exposed to bright lights the O2 within their tissues reach levels that are damaging to the corals tissues. After being removed from this light it may take hours for the O2 level to drop to the point that it is no longer damaging tissue, and days before the coral can withstand a normal full strength light cycle. We have no way of measuring the O2 levels within these corals. All we have to go on is the corals appearance. As mentioned earlier in this thread, these corals can bleach due to a lack of light. For this reason I would never expose them to an extended period of darkness. So, in order to provide them with light and at the same time not allowing the O2 level to climb to high, temporary low levels of light may be our only safe option. Most of the LFS's I have seen keep these corals under light that is to bright. When we get them home the O2 levels may already be to high. If we provide them with full strength lighting from day one the O2 levels may never get the chance to drop to an acceptable range and the coral will continue to decline and die. I agree with everyone in this thread, that these lights at this height will not sustain an Elegance long term. However, I also believe they may make the difference between having a live Elegance in 30 days and having a dead one.
 
Personally, I wouldn't have CF lights that high. I sincerely feel that is an over exaggeration of what is required. Again, if those lights were Metal Halides or T5's that height would be justifiable.
"As mentioned earlier in this thread, these corals can bleach due to a lack of light."

All (that i know of) photosynthetic corals will bleach if deprived of light for extended periods. Here is a pic of where i have my elegance ...it has been in the same location since i brought it home. If the lights would had been anything other than CF bulbs, i wouldnot had it that close . This elegance gets an average of 15 hours of this light a day and gets fed twice a week. Also , the reason i have it still in the sump and not the main display is because i have 150w 10k/6500k HQI bulbs in there, and too much flow. When i upgrade my tank later this year, it will be one of my center pieces in the display, along with my goni's :bum: :smokin:




DSCF0634Large.jpg


DSCF0636Large.jpg
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10443181#post10443181 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by elegance coral
dia2000 has seen first hand what bright light can do to an Elegance. He/She isn't taking any chances. The lights are on adjustable rails so their height can be adjusted very easily. As the Elegance acclimates the lights can be dropped in stages to insure the coral gets enough light without cooking it. Sounds good to me.

Yes, I have. I do plan on droping the lights down.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10448517#post10448517 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Adamc1303
Is the entire tank going to have only Elegnace corals in it?

Yes, just one.
 
I've pm elegance coral for advice on my 10 gallon tank that I had set up just for an elegance coral. The 10 gallon tank was a temporary thing, so now I have a 20 gallon. Any way, everything I had on the 10 gallon tank I just transfer it to the 20H except the skimmer and the bio-wheel.

Everything in the tank was great, so I went to the pet store and BAM they had a very healthy elegance coral.

Elegance Coral told me what to look for. I put the coral in my tank and it did good, well, as far as I know because I was always at work. Any way one weekend that I was off I seen some brown stuff coming out off the one of the mouth in the middle off the coral, so I pm elegance coral and he explained to me what it was and what to do. We I had no way of moving my lights up off the tank so I place some door screen over the lights and it stop.

Then one day I turned on the lights in the room that the tank was in and the elegance coral started puffing up really bad. I really don't know how long this was going on, but at the end off the elegance coral life, the flesh part of the coral in the middle was coming a part.

I had no crabs or fish in the tank.

So know from what I seen and learned from my first elegance coral, I set up the 20 gallon tank with the light so high, but I can bring the light lower to the tank.
 
If it was as simple as lowering lights, the problem would have been solved long ago. While I agree that lower light levels are better for an elegance (and many other corals) There is something else going on that we do not understand that causes most newly imported elagance corals to die in a very predictable pattern.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10463944#post10463944 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dvmsn
If it was as simple as lowering lights, the problem would have been solved long ago. While I agree that lower light levels are better for an elegance (and many other corals) There is something else going on that we do not understand that causes most newly imported elagance corals to die in a very predictable pattern.

I know that lower light levels is not the all cure thing, but it does have a lot to do with it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10454703#post10454703 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jman77
Personally, I wouldn't have CF lights that high. I sincerely feel that is an over exaggeration of what is required. Again, if those lights were Metal Halides or T5's that height would be justifiable.
"As mentioned earlier in this thread, these corals can bleach due to a lack of light."

All (that i know of) photosynthetic corals will bleach if deprived of light for extended periods. Here is a pic of where i have my elegance ...it has been in the same location since i brought it home. If the lights would had been anything other than CF bulbs, i wouldnot had it that close . This elegance gets an average of 15 hours of this light a day and gets fed twice a week. Also , the reason i have it still in the sump and not the main display is because i have 150w 10k/6500k HQI bulbs in there, and too much flow. When i upgrade my tank later this year, it will be one of my center pieces in the display, along with my goni's :bum: :smokin:




DSCF0634Large.jpg


DSCF0636Large.jpg

That's a very nice elegance coral and I see that your lights are not that far from the elegance.

From what I've read, elegance corals are collected from different locations, the one you have might be from an area that had a lot of lights and some are coming from deeper waters too.

Here's something from an article that I found:

Catalaphyllia jardinei (Elegance coral)

Habitat 1: Perhaps one of the bigger surprises came from our attempts to locate Catalaphyllia. We were assured that Catalaphyllia would be very common and collected from several sites. In fact, it was quite uncommon at all sites and the locations given by coral collectors seemed to vastly overstate its abundance. Fortunately, we did find examples at several different locations and, like Euphyllia, in very different habitats. Unlike Euphyllia, we found them to adopt quite distinct morphotypes, depending on the area of collection. The deepwater sites where Trachyphyllia were collected were also the area where we saw the most harvest of Catalaphyllia. To repeat, this is a very low-light sand and silt seafloor with no hard substrate and colonized by sparsely populated free-living corals, macroalgae, and cyanobacterial mats. Here, Catalaphyllia were found as small, free-living colonies that are generally the size and shape of the vast majority seen in aquarium stores. However, every coral seen - and every Catalaphyllia collected - from this area had purple tentacle tips. None of the Catalaphyllia at any other site had this characteristic.

Habitat 2: In contrast, the Catalaphyllia we found (rarely) at fringing, patch, and shallow submerged sites were mostly medium to large attached colonies. These colonies grew on the hard reef substrate and seemed to be able to grow much larger, adopting significantly developed flabello-meandroid growth forms. Furthermore, their skeleton, being attached, would be broken off for collection, rather than having the cone-shaped or unbroken bases typical of free-living colonies at all other sites. The colonies had the typically seen color patterns of bright green to brown with radiating stripes on the oral-disk, and brownish tentacles. Furthermore, the skeletons were well cleaned and whitish from grazing, and coralline algae and other typical invertebrates were found colonizing the skeleton. This is notable, given the next habitat description.

Habitat 3: The same general near shore, silty, shallow area where the dull colored Trachyphyllia were collected is also reported to be a prime area of Catalaphyllia collection. We did find a few specimens using searching and manta-tow techniques, but none ever appeared on any transects of the area. Therefore, we must assume a sporadic occurrence of low density. Like the deepwater habitat, Catalaphyllia collected here were free-living and never attached. They were found nearly buried in deep fine silts and were, also like the deepwater colonies, small and apparently size-limited by the substrate. More notably, the thick brown silt had discolored their skeletons from white to a dingy brown. The only notable growth on the skeleton was from the calcified tubes of polychaete worms. Their coloration was drabber, being brownish with muted green-brown oral disks and tentacles. [/QOUTE]

You really can't tell where the elegance coral that you get came from so to help me, i put my lights up high and I can bring them down if needed.

I have learned one thing when dealing with elegance corals and that is don't trust the pet stores, even the one you deal with a lot.
 
My tank is done cycling, but I need to find a way to block the light from my apartment window. I have the sides of my tank covered. I have plans on building a small light weight wall, any ideas?:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10463944#post10463944 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dvmsn
If it was as simple as lowering lights, the problem would have been solved long ago. While I agree that lower light levels are better for an elegance (and many other corals) There is something else going on that we do not understand that causes most newly imported elagance corals to die in a very predictable pattern.

If other researchers would have concentrated their studies on living Elegance corals, I agree with you, they would have found this problem long ago. Unfortunately they did not evaluate living corals. They examined dead and dieing corals and found organisms living in this tissue. The leap was made that these organisms were to blame for the corals death. I am doing everything in my power to set the record straight and show that this theory is incorrect.
The problems these corals are going through are a little more complicated than simply saying light is the problem. Over exposure to light is the first stage in this very predictable pattern of death these corals are facing. Technically speaking, they don't die from the light itself. They die from the tissue damage associated with this over exposure to light. I am able to intervene and reverse this predictable pattern. If I were wrong this would not be possible. I am very, very slowly changing the way people view this problem. I have faith that one day the truth will come out and things will change so that these corals do not have to die in the numbers we see today.
 
Your work is appreciated, thankyou for sharing your data. These corals are fascinating, to me they are the crown jewel of a reef tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10479441#post10479441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dla2000
My tank is done cycling, but I need to find a way to block the light from my apartment window. I have the sides of my tank covered. I have plans on building a small light weight wall, any ideas?:D

Here's my wall.

6h72l3o.jpg



Inside
61jvqyb.jpg


I know some are saying I'm going a little to far, but I'm determine to keep a elegance coral a live for a long time.
 
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