My findings on Masterflex pumps, automated vodka dosing, and continuous water changes

My next question was how could I tell which head units are standard or the quick load. I was checking them out on ebay and it seems like there isnt a difference. I tried to look them up on cole palmer web site, and I could not tell which is which. I would like to try and automate water changes and I like the idea of having two heads on one pump, so I would need a standard and quick load head? Is there any physical differences between the two?

The Quick-Load pump heads do look very similar to the standard pump heads (most have clear white housings). In most pictures it might be hard to see, but the Quick-Load style has a metal clip around the outside - additionally, if you look at specifications, the Quick Load accepts L/S 13, 14, 16, 25, 17, and 18 tubing.

The standard pump heads take a bit longer to load (see the how to load video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zC1INbSnf8o ) Standard pump heads only accept one size of tubing. The trick is getting the right pump head and tubing size for your application/flow rate. If you plug the part number of the pump head into the search box on Cole-Parmer's web site, the description will tell you which size tubing it uses.

For what it's worth, the Quick-Load style is no longer manufactured. You may want to consider a standard pump head (replacement parts available) or the newer version "Easy-Load" pump head if you want the flexibility to use different tubing sizes.

Hope this helps....
 
Just to add on the CP_Apps comments, I hate the standard load head. I have one, but it's very annoying to load in my opinion. Atleast in comparison to the quickload head. If you're only using one head per pump, I'd still recommend the quickload. It's cheap and extremely easy to switch out any size tubing.

I'd imagine there is a downside to it as well otherwise it'd probably still be around, but I've yet to find out what it is.
 
Not much of a down side to the Quick-Load the performance specs are identical between the two. In fact, they were quite popular - they just have made the line more modern now moving to the "Easy-Load" series (which is probably why you can find cheap Quick-Loads).

People tend to prefer the flexibility of using different size tubing (hence the Quick-Load and newer Easy-Load). The standard head is cheaper so it is a good option, If you know exactly what tubing/flow you want. The tirck is loading them....
 
L98-Z,

Thanks for the post. It certainly made sense of all the masterflex tubing/motors/controllers/pump/pump head parts out there. Also thanks for the US plastics part numbers for the tubing.

I have one question. Why have you chosen the Tygon tubing over Norprene?

According to this link http://www.masterflex.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=LS2_PTLData2.htm&ID=394 Norprene lasts many times longer than Tygon tubing.

In addition the price at usplastics for PharMed® Tubing 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD x 1/16" Wall is $3.24/ft vs $0.69/ft for the same size Norprene A60-G tubing (coleparmer id HV-06404-17, usplastics id 54268).

EDIT: there appears to be another type of Norprene at us plastics 54323 that is more expensive and rated for 20PSI but that's not what coleparmer are selling.

EDIT2: and another type 54291 that seems to be offered by coleparmer (food grade) but also at only $1.2/ft

I must be missing something if the less lasting tubing costs 5 times more, that's why I'm bringing this up.

Thanks!
 
L98-Z,

Thanks for the post. It certainly made sense of all the masterflex tubing/motors/controllers/pump/pump head parts out there. Also thanks for the US plastics part numbers for the tubing.

I have one question. Why have you chosen the Tygon tubing over Norprene?

According to this link http://www.masterflex.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=LS2_PTLData2.htm&ID=394 Norprene lasts many times longer than Tygon tubing.

In addition the price at usplastics for PharMed® Tubing 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD x 1/16" Wall is $3.24/ft vs $0.69/ft for the same size Norprene A60-G tubing (coleparmer id HV-06404-17, usplastics id 54268).

EDIT: there appears to be another type of Norprene at us plastics 54323 that is more expensive and rated for 20PSI but that's not what coleparmer are selling.

EDIT2: and another type 54291 that seems to be offered by coleparmer (food grade) but also at only $1.2/ft

I must be missing something if the less lasting tubing costs 5 times more, that's why I'm bringing this up.

Thanks!

To be quite honest, I used tubing recommended from another member on here. Norprene may be ideal. Assuming it's easily "crushed" to work within this type of pump I don't see how it'd be a problem. I'm actually quite curious how long this Tygon will last myself.

I'm currently running one pump for around 6-7 hours a day doing a water change. Awhile back I opened the heads to look at the tubing and there were considerable change to the tubing from where the pump had been running over it. With that said, it did not appear to be weaker or nearing breaking point, simply it was more rolled out looking.

If you try Norprene, let me know how it works, the tubing is then worst part about these pumps.
 
It is sold by coleparmer so I'm guessing it should be good. Also in their technical manuals they seem to say it is the best in terms of life. I just read that it doesn't bend well if you have to do sharp turns.

I ordered 10ft of norprene A60F yesterday ($12) (will just use a ft or so per pump) and a 100ft spool of HDPE ($7) for the rest of the run. I chose to use bigger heads and tubing because somehow running a 1.5A pump 24/7 didn't sound right (more than $20/mo for electricity where I live). I'll be running the pump for a total of 34 minutes per day (50c/month for electricity) spread evenly so I really doubt I'll ever wear out the tubing.
 
L98-Z,

Thanks for the post. It certainly made sense of all the masterflex tubing/motors/controllers/pump/pump head parts out there. Also thanks for the US plastics part numbers for the tubing.

I have one question. Why have you chosen the Tygon tubing over Norprene?

According to this link http://www.masterflex.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=LS2_PTLData2.htm&ID=394 Norprene lasts many times longer than Tygon tubing.

In addition the price at usplastics for PharMed® Tubing 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD x 1/16" Wall is $3.24/ft vs $0.69/ft for the same size Norprene A60-G tubing (coleparmer id HV-06404-17, usplastics id 54268).

EDIT: there appears to be another type of Norprene at us plastics 54323 that is more expensive and rated for 20PSI but that's not what coleparmer are selling.

EDIT2: and another type 54291 that seems to be offered by coleparmer (food grade) but also at only $1.2/ft

I must be missing something if the less lasting tubing costs 5 times more, that's why I'm bringing this up.

Thanks!

No idea, just went with what someone else had recommended. Norprene may work great.

As far as the 1.5 AMP pump, I don't believe it pulls anywhere near that. I need my killawatt to be sure, which I seemed to have misplaced, but if it is that terrible, it's not showing at all on my electric bill.
 
As far as the 1.5 AMP pump, I don't believe it pulls anywhere near that. I need my killawatt to be sure, which I seemed to have misplaced, but if it is that terrible, it's not showing at all on my electric bill.

You're actually right. I just went through the fixed speed pump datasheets and the low RPM ones are only .5A and for 6-7hrs a day that's only a few dollars a month.

7543-01 .5A
7543-02 .5A
7543-06 .6A
7543-12 .6A
7543-20 1.2A
7543-30 1.2A


For whatever reason I had 1.5A stuck in my head. Probably from the variable speed ones (which even say 3A on the back of their cases).
 
I'd even be surprised if they pull that much. Perhaps they do, but yeah, not terrible. I would expect them to vary based on the load, since these pumps are built to handle up to four heads, I'd like to see how they vary. Perhaps I'll buy a killawatt (again) and measure them. If you have one, perhaps you can do the same.

Please keep me updated on how the norprene tubing does as well. I will certainly go that way the next time should they work properly and endure the test of time.

I've been thinking about using something like these as a way to dose 2 part as well, I don't currently dose 2-part at all.
 
I have a kill-a-watt so I'll test mine when it arrives. I actually have two pumps my way. One is variable speed, the other is constant so I'll do the testing. The specs say the variable one doesn't support 2 heads, but I don't see why :)

Also in one of their datasheets, they have a full schematic with parts list of the full variable speed controller. If I ever finish my current projects I might play with that and see if an arduino can control one of these drives directly.
 
Nice writeup, i also went with a Cole Parmer pump for auto water changes. It took me a few weeks of research to figure things out such as what pump to use with what pump head, then what tubing. I went with a 7531-10 pump which does 100RPM and can power up to 4 heads at once. I found 2 pump heads 7017-20 on ebay as well as some L/S 17 tubing 10' for 12 bucks for inside the pump heads, then i just used 1/4" clear tubing from HD. 1/8" all-thread and 4 nuts secures the pump heads to the pump for a whopping $3 more and i'm set.

According to the flow chart on the Cole Parmer website, since my pump does 100 RPM, and the pump heads use L/S 17 tubing, I'll get 280ml/min.

3785ml in a gallon

3785/280=~13.5 minutes of running to change 1 gal. So i'll have it come on once in the morning for 13.5 minutes, and again in the evening for 13.5 minutes to change 2 gallons a day.

All in all my auto water change unit ran me $205 and its expandable to dose alk and calcium. Once i'm ready to start the alk and calcium dosing, i'll try to find a couple pump heads with much lower flow to match what needs to be dosed.

dd1ce0fc.jpg


DSCN3678.jpg
 
I may change my water changing pump to a faster model depending on the killawatt findings. I could use the 6 RPM model to dose 2-part.
 
Or keep an eye out for the variable speed models. They're slightly more (I think I got both of mine for around 75-100) and not as common, but MUCH more robust.
 
Quick report on the current used. The variable speed pump (7553-50) I have measures .3A to 1A from lowest to highest setting with a single head.

The fixed one is is 0.6A.

I got two to compare the noise levels because the pump will be in the living room and the variable pump is OK on the low speed but get noisy on the high speeds. I might put it back on ebay eventually.
 
I use one of these pumps to pull water through my CA reactor.

So I have a few comments:

1 - You can get the variable speed pumps (what I use) that either look just like the boxy ones above with just a knob on it or they make fancy ones where you set switches to tell the pump which head, which tubing, and the desired delivery quantity, and they run at the right speed. (if anyone wants one of those, PM me - I dont have one for sale, but know where one is sitting in a surplus store;-)

2 - be careful which head you get off of ebay. some only can use specific tubing. The first one I bought used "precision tubing" That was very expensive and needed replacing about every week. I got a different head that uses much cheaper tubing and lasts more than a month running 24/7.

3 - A controller for one of the pumps is simple. They are DC motors, so all you would need is a DC power supply and a PWM controller.

4 - I agree the masterflex (cole-parmer) website sucks, but you can search for part numbers to look up a pump. If you find an item that is close to what you are looking for, you can manipulate the URL to see what category of product you are in and look from there.

HTH

Stu
 
Quick report on the current used. The variable speed pump (7553-50) I have measures .3A to 1A from lowest to highest setting with a single head.

The fixed one is is 0.6A.

I got two to compare the noise levels because the pump will be in the living room and the variable pump is OK on the low speed but get noisy on the high speeds. I might put it back on ebay eventually.

Interesting. More than I was expecting, I may up my tubing size to reduce run times.
 
Interesting find:

Just set up my 20rpm drive with a LS17 head + quickload head and LS17 tubing. Filled two cups of equal amounts of water and set one head to draw from one cup to the other and and the second head to do the opposite. Point being if both have the same flow the water level in both cups should not change.
30 mins later it is visibly different. The quickload is much faster at moving water (rpm is the same because they are on the same shaft).

Does anyone have a clue if there is some adjusting that I need to do to slow it down? Maybe tighten the screw on the quickload more to adjust it to match the fixed head?

Otherwise I have to look for a second ls 17 head.

EDIT: just to make a point, the fixed head is at spec, the quickload is about 10% faster.
 
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Well, I've been playing all day with these heads. The quickload is still about .9ml/min faster (20rpm drive). I it doesn't make a difference how much I tighten that screw. I guess I'll have to hit ebay again.

Is anyone else doing regular + quickload head on one drive and confirm that the flow is the same from the two?
 
Well, I've been playing all day with these heads. The quickload is still about .9ml/min faster (20rpm drive). I it doesn't make a difference how much I tighten that screw. I guess I'll have to hit ebay again.

Is anyone else doing regular + quickload head on one drive and confirm that the flow is the same from the two?

Or work the math and dilute so that they're relatively even. Just another option.
 
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