Need some serious help!!!

[explorer364]

I have had the Aqua controller II for around 2 years. There have been some odd things that have happened over time, but overall - it has been a good unit.

I am and have started expanding my equipment to accomodate a much larger tank. Today I had an electrician run a dedicated line to my sump room - it has 4 sockets in each casing and I made sure that they were on the same phase and circuit.

Once the electrican was finished, we moved the equipment over and nothing worked, and I mean nothing. Then I started shutting down, restarting, reprogramming and then took the battery out, unplugged the AC unit and let the unit sit for almost 5 minutes.

Plugged everything back in and finally 1/2 of the units worked - the others didn't do anything even if they were programmed - this became a huge problem with the ozone generator and chiller.

Now, I have found the only way to get things to sorta work is to have a somewhat cheap surge protector - six plug device plugged into the wall and everything else plugged into this. (this absolutely defeats the purpose of spreading equipment across)

So, now I am completely afraid to go to sleep thinking that my tank is going to roast or freeze.

I tried every combination I could think of, read the Q&A section and looked for any threads that might duplicate what I am going through.

Please - would someone give me some ideas' - help - or some direction to go forward in????

Thanks@!

 

[clp]

I assume that you are using X10 for control. If so, then this may help:

- Make sure that the control interface is plugged into the AquaController with a 4 conductor telephone cord. The light should blink off when commands are sent out, but otherwise will be on.
- Make sure that the control modules x10 addresses match the configuration of the AquaController. The default AquaController program is listed in the back of the manual.
- The control interface and control modules should plug into the same circuit. If not, you may need to install a signal bridge.
- Do no use power strips with active surge suppression as they can attenuate the x10 signal. Use inexpensive powerstrips.
- With the AquaController try to turn on and off the control modules. Go to Control & Status -> Manual Control. Select the device you are having trouble with and repeatedly turn it on and off. Note that commands are only sent out when you press the select button.
- If you have added any new equipment to your tank, turn it off, and then repeat the Manual control test.
- Try switching to an unused X10 address on the control module and in the AquaControllerââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s configuration.
- Try swapping the control module with a known good one and see if the problem persists.
- Try power cycling the AquaController. Remove the 9V battery and unplug the AC adapter at the same time.
- If nothing is working try shutting off all appliances around your tank, and then try the manual on/off test. If something is causing X10 interference around your tank, it is likely an electronic ballast.

Or you could avoid the X10 issues by using our direct connect boxes (DC4, DC4HD, and DC8) instead. Since this is a hardwired connection from the AquaController to the controlled outlet, electrical noise and interference are not a problem.

Curt
Curt

 

[explorer364]

Curt,

After numerous hours and I mean until the wee hours of the morning I finally figured out a way to make everything work. I plug all of the control modules into the 12 plug strips and then into the new circuit (outlets) - then as long as I use a cheap strip and plug the power control interface into that and in to the new circuit (outlet) - everything appears to be working properly.

I think I am going to go ahead and purchase the DC4HD (probably a couple due to the amperage I am pulling) and stop using the X10. They seem to have always been a problem.

There again, as finicky as this system has been since the beginning, I might have to look for alternative solutions due to the money I have invested at this point.

Thanks for your response - even though it is just a copy of what you have on your web page. Lets be creative here....

 

[Carlos]

Same here. I have had the unit only for about a month and the X10 problems dont stop. I have an order placed for a DC8 now. I thought about the DC4H but the price difference is only $20. For that, might as well get the eight just in case I need them.

Carlos

 

[explorer364]

Carlos,

Is the DC8 capable of handling the same amperage as the DC4HD? That is why I was going to order the other as between my chillers, ballast etc - I would really have a lot of open areas on the DC8..

 

[clp]

explorer364,
>Thanks for your response - even though it is just a copy of
>what you have on your web page. Lets be creative here....
I've posted the answer before, but the answer does list the solution to the problem you had.

The DC4HD can handle larger loads than the DC8. The current on 1 outlet is 12 Amps for the DC4HD, and 6 Amps for the DC8.

Curt

 

[explorer364]

Curt -

Thanks for the information. My only question is are the DC4HD, DC8 etc surge protected as well or would you have to install an inline surge protection as well as the DC units?

BTW - I was just giving you a hard time about the post. After dealing with these X10 units and all their issues...you just have to get humerous especially when you are running on an hour or so of sleep and at work...

 

[clp]

No, the DCX's are not surge protected. No problem about the comment - sometimes I'm just a little too sensitive.

Curt

 

[explorer364]

Curt -

Doing some looking around at the different retailers. I noticed that you state that your prices have dropped. Are they below like Marine Depot, Premium Aquatics etc? Also, if when using the DC units, how do you address each outlet. With the X10, you have a letter and number - are the addresses on the DC units set or are they adjustable as well?

 

[clp]

The suggested retail prices dropped back in April; I believe that most of the online stores have now adjusted there prices to suggested retail or slightly below.
The direct connect boxes have dip switches on the side of them to set the letter/number code they respond to. Letter codes from A-D and number selection of 1-4, 5-8, 9-12, 13-16.

Curt

 

[Carlos]

The DC4HD can handle larger loads than the DC8. The current on 1 outlet is 12 Amps for the DC4HD, and 6 Amps for the DC8.

Curt

I am no electrician so what does that mean in layman terms???

Will the DC8 be able to handle the following or should I order the DC4HD instead?

- 2 250 watt MH IceCap Ballasts
- Pacific Coast 1/10 Chiller
- Milwaukee CO2 solenoid
- 2 55 watt T5 bulbs running on an IceCap 660
- Tunze 6080
- 4" sump fan

If anything, I need to run the ballasts on the DC8 cause they produce way too much interference with the X10 modules. I can run the Chiller on an X10 module. My real problem is with the IceCap ballast cause with the modules they keep turning on and off. Everything else runs well on X10.

Thanx for your help and really sorry for semi-hijacking the thread.

Carlos