New hobbyist, new 2.5g Pico.

R Tyler Mack

New member
I'm new to this hobby, but I've read enough to understand that when starting a new marine tank, patience is key; things are to be done in order and steps are not to be skipped. For a succesful reef startup, a careful reefkeeper must plan carefully and cross every T.

Unfortunately, these things have never been my strong point. When I first eard about nano reefs, I was in the semi-planning stages of setting up a 29 gallon freshwater tank with the intention of keeping a Green Spotted Puffer (<i>Tetraodon nigroviridis</i>). As I continued my research, I decided that the puffer would inevitably require a larger tank (at 6" in maturity) and as a responsible aquarist, I didn't want to subject the fish to poor living conditions, as a larger tank was out of my budget. So I shelved the GSP plan, dejected and disappointed.

ALAS, I somehow followed a daisy-chain of links and found myself at nano-reef.com, a forum site dedicated to, well, nano reefs. On the site were a number of featured 2.5 gallon "pico" reeftanks which utilized Aqua Clear HOB filters as refugiums for filtration. As it happened, I had purchased a 2.5 gallon Top Fin tank (for breeding snails to feed the puffer) just before I decided not to <i>get</i> a puffer. Lesson one: don't make purchases before you are ready to commit to a tank, or something like that. In this case, I was lucky, because I decided to use the tank to make my very own pico reef.

Now, I understand the inherent difficulty for a beginner to start with a tiny tank. Sudden chagnes in water quality affect everything fast, thereby leading to a quick nuke. I know that the traditional rule of thumb is to start with the largest tank you can feasibly afford (right?). I took the opposite route, or the New Conventional Wisdom: start with a small tank -- you will learn quickly to pay strict attention to water parameters, as well as save money on initial start-up costs. With a tiny pico tank, I can get away without a protein skimmer, a calcium reactor, and often without a heater. I have learned about these things in my research, but until I move onto a larger tank, I can focus on the basics: biological filtration through macroalgae, live rock & sand; the nitrogen "cycle"; lighting and current; and how to care for corals.

OKAY, enough of the rambling. I don't know how I got onto this pedestal, seeing as <i>I haven't even finished putting the tank together</i>. All of the above is just <i>the way I see it</i>. Sincerely, let me know if there are any serious flaws in my logic.

Some photos before we continue:

The tank:

<img src="http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/8674/1001973yu5.jpg">

2.5 gallon glass Top Fin aquarium, 12" x 6"

The filter/refugium:

<img src="http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6645/1001974us0.jpg">

It is an Aqua Clear 30 HOB filter with the media basket removed and cut. The square grille will be siliconed to keep macroalgae from sliding out. The long half-grille section will be placed where it would normally have gone on the left side of the main media area, protecting the motor and regulating flow. I am looking for relatively low flow out of this filter, but it pumps 108 gph (I think) at it's lowest setting, which is 43.2x the volume. I will be using the pump head from an Elite Mini in-tank filter for current.

The faint yellow arrows show where I trimmed the filter in order for it to slide further to the left in my tank and allow for an overflow panel to fit underneath.

...


This was basically all I had, and then I visitied the LFS (20 miles south in Waterford, MI called "Moby Dick Pet Store, Inc." There I got the itch. All that I knew about planning and waiting and being ready went out the window. I had plans, alright. For instance, the intake tube for the AC30 was unsightly and I had plans to hide it behind an acrylic overflow panel that would be int he lefthand rear corner of the tank. I had not yet purchased acrylic or even measure d the space it would fill. I had plans for lighting, based on Taikmono's DIY CF setup with 4x 13w bulbs. But I didn't have any of the stuff needed to make that. I even had ideas of what I wanted to keep in the tank (a dwarf seahorse, perhaps? maybe a nice starfish and a yellow clown goby?). I love clownfishes and have since childhood, but I knew the tank would be too small for them.

At the LFS I got so taken away with my dreams that I purchased Instant Ocean, a swing-arm hydrometer, some CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite sand, a baseball of chaetomorpha (mixed with a larger amount of caulerpa than I'd like), and 2 pounds of live rock rubble. Down the street at Pet Supplies "Plus" I bought a larger box of Reef Crystals for much less money than the box of Instant Ocean I got at Moby Dick, so I will take the Instant Ocean back.

Now that I had live rock and algae, my rationale was, I would have to get in gear and start setting up the tank. This was true, but it also made me realize all the things I don't have:

-- lighting
-- a heater
-- RO water
-- a bucket to mix saltwater
-- acrylic
-- a proper test kit

So I went to Home Depot, in search of mini CF ballasts, to no avail. (Eventually, I caved and bought Coralife Aqualight Double Compact Fluorescent Strip Lights instead [2x 18w 50/50 10k/true actinic].) While I was there I bought one of the famous orange buckets, some silicone, a sheet of Plastikote acrylic and some Krylon Fusion gloss black.

Just because this is getting freakishly long, I am going to continue it in a the next post, for a little break-up...
 
Looks good, at least you did reasearch! A lot more than i did... its not that hard once you get it all going bud. :D
 
pt II

pt II

On my way home from Home depot, I stopped at the brand new Wal-Mart that was unfortunately built in the town where I live. I figured the Culligan RO machine they have would be new also, so the water would be fairly reliable. I bought a five gallon container worth, with a valve at the bottom. I think this container will be fairly useful.

When i got home I started mixing the saltwater. According to the Reef Crystals instructions, I should use 1/2 cup per gallon of water. Without any real measurement device, I eyeballed the removal of three gallons from the RO container into the bucket. I figured that the tank with the AC30 would be about thirty gallons, but I was usure. I placed the Elite Mini (with its little pathetic sponge) and a tiny "preset" 10w heater that I had lying around from who knows where in the Home Depot bucket. I have a coralife digital thermometer, so I used that to monitor temp.

The hydrometer I bought is an Instant Ocean model, squat with a swing arm. It is surprisingly difficult to use. I don't mean the actual act of collecting water, but the measurements from it are highly varied, and not just accounting for bubbles. I'm wondering if maybe I am using it incorrectly? I do know also that the measurements will be different at different temperatures, but sometimes they wuld be very different only momets apart. I hope to get a refractometer eventually, but for now this thing has to serve me well. What's the deal?

I realized also that I was unsure what temperature I should warm the saltwater to. I looked around some reef sites and decided that 77-79 degrees F was the average. Is this correct, or am I suffering from sampling error?

I haven't tested the params of the mixed saltwater yet because it's just sitting in the bucket with the mini pump and the tiny heater. I added the live rock later, but I still didn't test the water. Would I have need to? I guess so. I should have tested the RO water before I mixed it. Oh well.

<img src="http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9870/1001975fp8.jpg">

The temperature increase from 61.5 degrees was tortuously slow, so I ran to Meijer and picked up and 8" 100 watt for dirt cheap.

Before I did that, though, I scored and snapped the acrylic for the overflow. Then I drilled holes where the teeth will be, and then, in a ridiculously DIY manner, handsawed the teeth.

<img src="http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/7435/1001977un6.jpg">

The acrylic, halfway through. It looks awful because I did it by hand (I live in an apartment and own no power tools. In fact, I had to borrow the drill I used to make the holes). I thought that the sloppy cuts would bother me, but after seeing them in the tank with the filter and everything, it's not so bad. Besides, I have the teeth placed so high that you can't really see them anyway looking into the tank. Maybe with they grow coralline on them they'll look "natural" from the jagged edges.

<img src="http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5415/1001978ok3.jpg">

Final holes cut. The method I used? I removed the blade from the saw below, then fed it through the hole, and re-attached it to the saw. I then cut my way <i>out</i> from the hole. This made it easier to giude the blade, but also resulted in the tapered teeth.

<img src="http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/5562/1001979ub5.jpg">

The saw used. Whutta pain. I'm surprisingly pleased with the results. By which I mean the results are awful, but I don't mind, which is a surprise.

I mentioned above that I went to Meijer to buy a larger heater to warm the saltwater. Before i gave up an did that, I tried using this tiny 7w CF lamp to add a bit of temp. I don't know why i thought it would work. It didn't add temp, but it did help the bagged algae.

<img src="http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/4893/1001976tu8.jpg">

I don't have a picture of this, but after I added the cheapo 100w heater and got the temps up, I added the live rock to the saltwater. Looking down I could see a couple of wormy things swimming around, but that was pretty much it. Anything else which may have been moving was probably camoflaged by the current from the pump, which blew around stuff. I also remove the chaeto from the bag and let it into the water. Is there any reason I should not have done these things?

Also, I painted the overflow piece black with Krylon Fusion, and then several hours after it had dried (15 minutes to "dry", 1 hour before handling) I siliconed it into the interior of the tank. My silicone job is a mess but I managed to clean it up a little with the help of a DAP tool. Tonight I will leak-test it and see if the overflo chamber is large enough. I have a feeling it might not be, and have no idea what I'll do if that is the case. Drill holes in the acrylic (there are two small ones already)? This would probably limit the skimming abilities of the overflow. We'll see. The silicone will finish curing at 6 AM Saturday. I'm so excited that I am actually going to wait up. I'll take some pictures and post them later tonight.
 
Good luck dude, I'm setting one up with another 2.5 as a fuge. Any ways I have the Current-USA 12" 18x2w. And dumba$$ me I didn't measure the light assuming it would work because of the length and I now find out it's too deep. How does the light you are using measure up? Width and Length?

Thanks
 
Well I just ordered the light fixture last night, but it lists the width at 7", but in pictures of the unit it looks like the bulbs are in the first 5-6" with and inch or so in the rear for ballasts, etc.? Also, if it is a bit too deep I am confident I can modify it a bit to make it work. I'll get crafty.
 
I just looked int he home depot bucket and noticed that there are 10 or so dead copapods floating across the surface.

Did I do something wrong, or is this just typical die-off? Temps are normal, but I still haven't tested the water. I guess I'll do that with my Laborett.
 
Your off to a great start.

Hydrometers are very inaccurate and break easily so that is why refractometers are preferred. A temperature of 78-82F is where you will want to maintain it at however a degree above or below that range is fine.

The 12" Current USA 2x18w PC fixture is 7.25" wide so it will hang over a little bit. Are you sure they are Copepods because they are very tiny. Yes some die off will occur but it is common. I'm not sure if you've read about cycling but you will need to introduce a source of ammonia to start your cycle. Many people use the die off from live rock to accomplish this however it isn't a reliable method in my opinion so therefore a small piece of cocktail shrimp needs to be added.

Good luck and if you have any more questions just ask.
 
are you sure they are dead? Mine sometimes swim to the surface and stay there for a while, floating, before they find their ways back to the bottom.
 
You know, I just read an article about 'pods, so I should have known better than to assume they were copas'. Actually, they are not small. In fact, the smallest is about 2mm long, but they are curled, and there is a large one that is nearly 5mm but curled. They are white-translucent.

I just got home and noticed that the temp was 84.7! Yikes! I turned off the large heater and put the tiny one in the bucket/ Hopefully the temps will drop but the small heater can hold then in the 72-78 range, minimum.

Anyway, I suppose I should go test the water and see where I stand.

I hope I didn't kill my live rock. There are 10-15 worms at the bottom of the bucket, purplish, ranging from one centimeter to 2 inches in length and one mm diameter. Are these beneficial, or should I remove them?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8662506#post8662506 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MrMexReefer
are you sure they are dead? Mine sometimes swim to the surface and stay there for a while, floating, before they find their ways back to the bottom.

Well, they aren't moving except with the flow, and they look like they are rather trapped in bubbles. They definitely do not appear to be alive. Could the high temps (84.7F) have killed them?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8662356#post8662356 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nanomaniac
Your off to a great start.

The 12" Current USA 2x18w PC fixture is 7.25" wide so it will hang over a little bit.

Yes it does hang over, but that's not the problem. The problem is the mounting docks which rely on the corner edge of the black top brace to sit on isn't wide enough. Mack how you going to get around that?

Thanks
 
Your 84.7 was a close call, but things will survive. Understand---what you're trying is much harder than the guy with the 6' reef. Those little ones are flighty and hard to run, but very, very nice when they do work.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8663951#post8663951 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by compulou

The 12" Current USA 2x18w PC fixture is 7.25" wide so it will hang over a little bit.

Yes it does hang over, but that's not the problem. The problem is the mounting docks which rely on the corner edge of the black top brace to sit on isn't wide enough. Mack how you going to get around that?

Well, the fixture I will use is only 7" wide, and adjustable legs which can grasp any size brace can be purchased for them. I do intend on building a canopy for the tank, so hopefully it will fit within that, or I can build one that doesn't have to be freakishly large in order to squeeze the lights inside.
 
Well, after a dust cloud last night which had cleared up this morning, and then another when I disturbed the chaeto in the AC fuge (seriously, is this going to happen every time I touch the fuge? My oolite sand is very fine and I'm worried that with no mechanical filtration it will never settle entirely anywhere but on my algae.) and then another when I aquascaped -- took a while, but I'm happy with the rocks -- I finallly tested the water with my Tetra Laborett.

Phew, that was all one sentence. If you don't count the question in the parenthetical. ANYWAY--

Test Results

Temp: 79.8 F
PH: ~8.0
KH: 9 degrees
NO<sub>2</sub><sup>-</sup>: ~<0.3 mg/l
NH<sub>3</sub>/NH<sub>4</sub><sup>+</sup>: ~0.25 mg/l

These are the only things my test checks. I have a hydrometer but I forgot to use it at the time and I'm still working on getting the bubbles out of the damn thing when I want it to work properly.

Sorry no pictures yet -- I'll have to do that tomorrow. I left my camera at my parents' place.
 
Okay, tonight I'm going to test again to see where my cycle is. I'd imagine it's still just starting, but I'm going to test anyway, just 'cause. Yaknow.

Also, I need suggestions for what test kits I should get. I have the Laborett kit now which measures pH, NO2, NH3/NH4+, KH, and that's it. What other tests do I need? Which brands are recommended?

Also, when the time comes I would like to add some life to the tank. Right now it's looking pretty boring as I'm pretty sure I accidentally killed any hitchhikers when the temp spike reached 84.7 in the bucket I was holding LR in waiting for the tank to cure, etc. That's what I get for buying LR before I was ready. Should I buy another small piece of LR to seed with hitchhikers? What inverts should I eventually get & how many?

And, when the time comes, I'm going to want to put corals in here, but I'm new at this and I don't know which corals are good for a beginner. I'm going to take it slow, though. I'm just surveying the field so I have plenty of time to research before I order or go to the store. Plus, there will be a frag swap in my area on 21 Jan. Hopefully I will be ready by then.

Thanks!
 
Also, my Coralife fixture came in. It's a bit bulky, but I plan on scavenging the thing for it's parts when I build a hood. Basically buying the fixture was just as cheap as buying a retrofit kit which would have as many or fewer components.

Tonight I'll post pictures of the extremely jury-rigged setup.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8666070#post8666070 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by R Tyler Mack
Well, the fixture I will use is only 7" wide, and adjustable legs which can grasp any size brace can be purchased for them. I do intend on building a canopy for the tank, so hopefully it will fit within that, or I can build one that doesn't have to be freakishly large in order to squeeze the lights inside.

Mack how's it going? Can't wait to see those pics!!! I see your going with a Hood over your tank. I went to my local Big Als as they had the 36w Coralife light in stock and even with the Adjustable Legs you mentioned it did not work. Are you gutting out the Coralife to stick into the hood? The Current-USA model has three power cords and two switches to be able to run everything seperately. I'd love to see pics of the Hood as it looks like I have to go the same route.

Thanks,

Lou
 
Hey, welcome to the hobby--I'm enjoying your thread as I jsut last week set up a 2.5g nano myself (although I have toher tanks as well).

For test kits--get a nitrate one (N03) too-- as the tank cycles you will see ammonia rise, then nitrite will rise as ammonia falls, then nitrate will rise and nitrite and amm. will drop to zero. Eventually all three should be 0.

Definitely get the hydrometer working--especially in a tiny system like this where 0.5l evaporation will change your salinity, you need it and you will need to keep a very close eye on keeping the salinity stable.

Also--you will want your pH higher--ideally ~8.4 during the day. I really don't think "dosing" a tank this small to increase pH is a good idea, especially if you are new at reefkeeping (you are, no?) as that can introduce wild swings in such a teeny system unless you are incredibly conscientious and careful, and measure and test first. Instead (and what I am trying to do for now) I would recommend large frequent water changes with good quality artificial salt (test the water before you use it for pH--maybe this is your problem), and diligent topoff with RO/DI.

Let us know how that coralife fixture works--I am using the 2 x 9W PC fixture, which I fear may be a little small, but I wonder if your evaporation and heating issues are going to be difficult.

Thanks!
Christine
 
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