New reef tank trim broken Help please

[JP Reef]

When I needed a new top frame for an old bowfront I no longer have, I called Aqueon and they sent me a new one for relatively cheap. Actually they sent me a bottom frame as they started using the same frame for both because the old top frames were junk and known to fail. If the tank is a standard 180 I would call either Aqueon or Marineland and see if they can get you a new frame.

 

[on the spot]

I did they don't make anything over 18" wide

from the frame makers FAQ page
Q: Does the custom 2 piece frame provide the same support for the tank as a one piece frame?

A: Yes. The 2 piece frame will provide the same bracing support as a one piece frame once it’s installed on your tank. Remember that aquarium frames with braces are only designed to help support the glass panels from bowing to an extent where the glass could possibly break. NO frames are designed to hold your tank together. A properly built tank should only be held together by the silicone seams.

multi piece it. in the way back custom tanks were done that way. mitered corners, 4 or more pieces.

Frame cap, from the link, mitered to fit. 10 bucks per 74" length, so 30 bucks and some silicone.

HTH

 

[Trevnc1]

multi piece it. in the way back custom tanks were done that way. mitered corners, 4 or more pieces.

Frame cap, from the link, mitered to fit. 10 bucks per 74" length, so 30 bucks and some silicone.

HTH

Thank you!! I don't see on their website where I can order the pieces 72" for $10 and cut to fit. The only thing I know to do is order two 72"x18 frames and cut them to fit, but that would cost me over $100

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Some top frames are structural in the sense that they contain a center brace that supports the tank sides and keeps them from bowing. That's where the "plastic trim is structural" mindset comes from.

On tanks with trim on the bottom, the only real purpose is as a way of preventing uneven or point loads on the bottom edge of the glass, and to provide a bit of impact protection to the bottom edge. It is never structural in the way that the top brace is, ie keeping the tank from bowing or coming apart.

Traditional tanks with plastic rims are made with the bottom panel of glass captive between the sides/ends. This leaves the edge of the sides as the structural support, carrying the entire weight of the tank. Often these edges are left unfinished (not ground flat and not eased or chamfered at all.) This leaves them a little uneven, which can result in dangerous point loads. Also, a raw edge on a glass panel is pretty easy to chip or damage, especially if the corners aren't eased. Especially with tempered glass, a hard hit to the weight-bearing edge could easily break the panel.

"Rimless" tanks, on the other hand, are usually made with the sides resting on top of the bottom pane of glass, because that method avoids the issues mentioned above. Rimless tanks are pretty much always made with good edge finishes on every panel, so you don't get the unevenness or susceptability to damage quite as readily.

Go ahead and silicone individual strips of trim, or as someone above mentioned, get some pvc angle and silicone that on. I would certianly not run the tank as-is, but this shouldn't be a big deal to fix.

 

[outy]

Ok why would the wood need to covered with fiberglass, also I'm a welder. .

I was thinking corner support.

Came up with a better idea, router the tank dimensions into a 1" piece of plywood. You could use any plastic trim to hide such or make it look good while having structural support.

Y trade so I know I can make one of these out of 3/4" angle but I don't know how I feel about the tank sitting on metal.

Your idea I like better.

So do that, but leave enough room for thin epoxy coated wood trim, to use as a gasket so you have no metal and glass contact.

Your stand could hide all of it.

 

[outy]

Some top frames are structural in the sense that they contain a center brace that supports the tank sides and keeps them from bowing. That's where the "plastic trim is structural" mindset comes from.

.

Absolutely.

We always tell people who want to cut those braces not to.

I have two plastic braces and no way I'm messing with them

 

[sherbert1421]

Some top frames are structural in the sense that they contain a center brace that supports the tank sides and keeps them from bowing. That's where the "plastic trim is structural" mindset comes from.

On tanks with trim on the bottom, the only real purpose is as a way of preventing uneven or point loads on the bottom edge of the glass, and to provide a bit of impact protection to the bottom edge. It is never structural in the way that the top brace is, ie keeping the tank from bowing or coming apart.

Traditional tanks with plastic rims are made with the bottom panel of glass captive between the sides/ends. This leaves the edge of the sides as the structural support, carrying the entire weight of the tank. Often these edges are left unfinished (not ground flat and not eased or chamfered at all.) This leaves them a little uneven, which can result in dangerous point loads. Also, a raw edge on a glass panel is pretty easy to chip or damage, especially if the corners aren't eased. Especially with tempered glass, a hard hit to the weight-bearing edge could easily break the panel.

"Rimless" tanks, on the other hand, are usually made with the sides resting on top of the bottom pane of glass, because that method avoids the issues mentioned above. Rimless tanks are pretty much always made with good edge finishes on every panel, so you don't get the unevenness or susceptability to damage quite as readily.

Go ahead and silicone individual strips of trim, or as someone above mentioned, get some pvc angle and silicone that on. I would certianly not run the tank as-is, but this shouldn't be a big deal to fix.

just to touch on this a bit a more. there are 2 common methods to building tanks. There's the flat bottom tank (where the side panels sit on top of the bottom panel. There is also the raised bottom tank (where the bottom panel sits up inside the side panels. (Think of the bottom of a can of soda for example)

Being a tank builder back in the day for several mom and pop stores, there was always debate among us which method is/was better. Ultimately there's really no tried and true way of knowing as both methods should work fine if the tank is built right. it's really just subjective.

Personally, I always preferred the raised bottom method better on the bigger tanks with more weight. With the flat bottom tank method, you have more potential pressure points on the bottom glass panel. Also, a piece of glass is much stronger when the weight is being distributed on top of the sides of the glass panel rather than across the entire flat surface of the glass. Raised bottoms also allow more tolerance for any potential shifting or twisting of the tank as again, you have less pressure points on the bottom glass

On the downside, raised bottom tanks are more difficult and take more time to build. That is why you see the flat bottom method being used more today. Quicker and easier to build tanks. As we all know, time is money in the corporate world for the major tank manufacturers

Most tanks with frames on the bottom are actually utilizing the flat bottom method as the tank can be built right inside the frame without having to install the frames later on