New tank 84 x 24 x 24

NeilPearson

New member
Here's some pictures of my new tank....

First a few of the stand as it was being built

64246stand1.JPG


64246stand2.JPG


64246stand3.JPG


And pictures of the plumbing

64246plumbing_left.jpg


64246plumbing_right.jpg


64246plumbing_top.jpg


64246plumbing_top_2.jpg


A couple as I was filling it with the closed loops on:

64246Filling.jpg


64246filling2.jpg


And a full tank shot... now the work really begins:

64246April_5_2005_001.jpg
 
Thanks. I have some live rock coming in about a week and after that, I am going to leave it relatively empty for about a month. Maybe more depending on the pod population.
 
great job on the wood work NeilPearson! You know I have some PVC outlets over the top of my tank and now I am looking at options to re-plumb them. The reason being, although difficult to tell they do cause areas of the tank to get less light. On top of that my MH are so hot the pipes even have burn marks!

If you plan on keeping SPS and running high light you may want to consider re-working those two inlets coming from the overflow while there is no life at stake ;)

Very nice work!
 
I haven't decided exactly what I am doing for lighting... I did think about those pipes getting in the way though.

I'm thinking of possibly getting two 4' 8 bulb T5's retro kits. This would put 16 54 watts bulbs over the tank for 864 watts of T5.

Or maybe doing a 3' and a 4' and setting them up like this...

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That would give me 8 * 39 + 8 * 54 = 744 watts but the ends would not hang over the outer 2" pvc. I'm thinking this might be the better way to go. With those retrokits, you can set up the bulbs anyway you want like that right?

I was originally going to go with metal halides but after seeing the ToTM last month, I might have changed my mind. Also with T5's I wouldn't have to worry about the pipes getting in the way as much (or at all). I would probably be able to get away without running a chiller too. The fan I have blowing over the sump right now may be enough to keep it cool. I get tons of evaporation with the dry Arizona air.
 
anathema said:
Just curios why you don't cut holes in the tank top and run your returns through them?

Mostly because I never thought of it... and I would be scared to drill the top since the acrylic isn't real wide. I would hate to create a weak spot. With acrylic tanks there is often a lot of tension on the top at the corners and occassionally these crack. I just wouldn't want to weaken that if I don't have to.

If I was to do something like that, I think I would rather drill the overflow and come in that way. I don't think it will really matter much though the way it is. I wasn't thinking of putting a metal halide over the center brace anyway and with T5, I don't think a little bit of PVC there is really going to make much of a difference one way or the other
 
Gawain1974 said:
Looking great! I know it's a bit early, but what livestock are you thinking of keeping?

I haven't really decided on much but I do know I want a jawfish and eventually a mandarin. I'll probably get a blue tang and maybe some type of Anthias. I'm not sure what else.

And I have a clown, firefish, bangaii cardinal, blue/green chromis and a neon goby currently in a 29 gallon that will be transferred over.

Then the 29 is going to get a pair of dwarf lionfish (after the transfer of course)
 
NeilPearson said:
And I have a clown, firefish, bangaii cardinal, blue/green chromis and a neon goby currently in a 29 gallon that will be transferred over.


Nice tank! Boy are your current fish in for a suprise. :D
 
Entropy said:
Nice tank! Boy are your current fish in for a suprise. :D

As the first fish moved in there and the fact that I think most of them were tank raised, they won't know what to do with all the space!
 
Yeah....

"Sorry fishies! We have to kick you out of your one bedroom apartment. The only thing available is this 5000 square foot house. Hope that is ok..." :D

Serioulsy though, the only thing that concerns me is the access to the tank. I am thinking down the road to cleaning. Can you get to the entire front?
 
This is harder than it looks

This is harder than it looks

Someone asked how my tank is doing so time for an update...

It's coming... I am taking it pretty slow but I had some headaches.

I decided to go with just over 800 watts of T5 lighting (16 bulbs in there)

I had to take back one of my T5 ballasts. It burned out after the first day.

Another one of my T5 lights doesn't seem to want to come on all the time and I'm not sure why yet. I'm not sure but it might be overheating and then shutting down. Then again it might be a loose wire. My GFCI seems to be tripping daily too after I hooked up my lights and skimmer a couple days agao and I'm not sure why.

The schedule 40 1" bulkheads for my overflow that the tank came with have been a pain in the butt. I never have been able to stop them from leaking. I have everything plumbed with PVC and I think the vibration from the water running through the drains and the pump pumping rattles the fittings just enough to cause them to leak. I measured the hole and it was exactly 1 7/8". I found the same bulkheads on the internet and the hole size recommended was 1 3/4". Most schedule 80 bulkheads were listed as 2" holes. Anyway I found a web site that had 1" schedule 80 bulkheads listed as 1 7/8". I e-mailed them and asked if it was correct since they are the only place that seems to sell these. They insisted that it was correct so I ordered some and we'll see when they get here. I am also going to change to flexible hose underneath the tank to eliminate any vibration getting back to the bulkheads. If they don't fit... well I'll just have to make them fit.

The leaks are really slow and result in saltcreep more than anything but it still makes me feel less than satisfied with the tank. Lately I have noticed salt and discoloration on the wood of the stand right in the center. It doesn't really feel wet but I know it can't be good. There may be some mold too, I'm not really sure. I don't know how the water is getting there other than maybe running from the leaking overflow plumbing but there is no sign of water damage the whole way until it gets to the center. It is right over my sump too so maybe it is from saltspray coming off the sump. I'm not really sure. The wood still feels solid and hard but I know I have to do something pretty quickly. I never used anything to treat the plywood... I didn't think it would really be getting wet.

It has been a fairly frustrating experience so far.

Here is a picture of the water damage. It is so strange because of the pattern of the damage. You can see it is a little ways away from the overflow plumbing that is leaking a little. I am not sure why the water damage would be in a perfect circle with a dry middle, away from anything that can leak. I drilled a hole in the damaged area (I circled it on the picture) to see what the wood was like and the sawdust was dry. The wood was hard and just from how it drilled, I never would have known there was a problem if the visual signs weren't there.

64246May03_001.jpg


So I sanded the area down (about 30 seconds worth of sanding by hand - without a sander) and it now looks like this...

64246May03.jpg


It seems to me like the water is coming from underneath the plywood and not the top of the plywood... it just doesn't make sense to me.

I just went and checked it and the GFCI was tripped again. It wasn't doing this before I added the skimmer and lights. I have 2 GFCI circuits on the tank. This one has half the lights, the skimmer, a fan that blows across the sump and a 2100 GPH pump. The other one has the other half of lights, a 2100 GPH pump and the sumps return pump (950 gph Mag 9.5). I just unplugged the fan to see if it will trip still. It wasn't tripping with the fan until I put the skimmer on.

The skimmer is a ASM G-3 and I couldn't be happier with it. I read a few posts where people said the collection cup was thin plastic but it looks fine to me. Euroreefs are probably thicker but for what I saved... it is fine. Produced nasty skimate.

Friends bought a house that had a tank in it and they decided they didn't want it so I got a bunch of aiptaisa infested rock :)

I can deal with the aiptaisa with a little Joe's Juice and some time. I have already eliminated hundreds of them which is about 75% of them. I need to get in there and get the rest. I put a couple peppermint shrimp in there (even though I really didn't want any shrimp - I figured I could put up with 2 in a 210)

Also with the rock came some 6 year old fish. A yellow tang, a tomatoe clown and about 6 different damsels. Okay it isn't exactly my choice of fish. I decided to keep the tang and the tomatoe clown and one white black striped damsel. All the rest went to the LFS. The only reason I kept the damsel is he was very timid. I watched the other tank for a while and he hid in the rock all the time. I kind of felt sorry for him. In the new tank he hid for the first week but now he is coming out more now that all the other damsels are gone... I'll give them a chance. But once I start adding live stock, if any of them act up, they will be gone too.

Here is a new full tank shot (you can see the tang on the left)

64246May03_002.jpg


So I still have some things to iron out but I think it is getting better.
 
Great looking tank, love the pipe work on the closed loop, have you had any problem with those leaking?? What kind of pumps are you running and what is the estimated flow???
 
Looks great . And for what its worth those bulkheads suck the leak if their too loose and leak if too tight.
 
reefkeeper135 said:
Great looking tank, love the pipe work on the closed loop, have you had any problem with those leaking?? What kind of pumps are you running and what is the estimated flow???

I am running 2 amp master 2100's on the closed loop - each one 2100 gph

and 1 Mag Drive 9.5 (950 gph) as the return from the sump

So 5150 gph minus whatever I am losing from head pressure.

Head loss is probably about 200 gph on the Mag Drive so 750 gph

The amp master's are rated at 7.5 feet so I doubt I am getting much loss there at all. That and according to the calculator on reef central, I should be getting more than 2100 gph since it isn't going 7.5 feet.

So I'm guessing right around a total of 5000 gph or 23 times turn over an hour.

Also there haven't been any leaks on the piping on the top. I never glued the nozzles that point in the tank and I noticed there was some salt creep on a couple of them a few days ago the tank was dry though. Then I noticed they weren't pushed in very tightly so I pushed them in more and haven't checked it yet. I was surprised that even though I never glued those nozzles on, most of them didn't have any salt creep at all. I didn't glue them because I wanted to be able to change the direction of the flow.
 
clkwrk said:
Looks great . And for what its worth those bulkheads suck the leak if their too loose and leak if too tight.

Yeah I was kind of annoyed when I got those. When I got the tank built and asked for a quote, I made sure I asked them what kind of bulkheads they used and he told me schedule 80.

Then he gave me the quote which I approved. I never looked up the part number that was on the quote but sure enough it was the schedule 40. When I picked up the tank I did complain about it but he talked me into it. He said that is all they normally use for 1" pipes and nobody ever has any trouble with them... oh well, I guess I should read the quote more carefully next time.

I ordered the new ones so I hope it will make a big difference. They gave me schedule 80 ones for the 2" pipes and they have been great. There is no sign of salt creep on them anywhere.
 
I just figured out where that circular water damage came from. I used to have a home made skimmer that was fairly tall and it was caused by the collection cup. The collection cup was up pretty high close to the wood and it looks like it was caused by that. My skimmer cup fits the size / shape of the damage perfectly.
 
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