Odyssea 48" 2x150 4xT5 DIY Wiring Questions

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BubbleMonkeyIII

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Hi everyone,

I purchased an Odyssea 48" 354 Watt HQI/T5 Fixture a few months ago. (i know I know...the ballast are flaming dangerous!) However, I purchased it just for the FIXTURE and planned on powering the HQI in the ODY light with a UL listed BWVII ballast, rewiring the fixture DIY. (that was the original plan anyways) My plan, also called for me to IMMEDIATELY toss the ballast after just checking the lights worked after shipping. (which I ended up doing) Never intended on using that thing for more than a few mintues if that. Certainly not when i was out of the room...(fires)

When it arrived, one side of the 2xT5 bulbs had come loose in shipping they didnt break, but were loose, but still connected. I plugged in the light the ballasts and fired it up, to test it anyways, including the Halides, and everthing did fire up just fine, which was cool. But the T5 bulbs were loose so that was a problem. Because of this I had to take off the wiring end of the fixture to replace the bulbs in the holders. (this is the only way to get to the T5 bulbs)

I turned off the ballast disconnected everything power wise... Then Just before I replaced the end cap on the light fixture and after the bulbs were in place, I noticed ONE loose wire coming off the incoming side of the fixture that appeared to be stuffed in the housing in a screw hole, like it was grounded? I thought how weird this looked at first, especially since, I couldnt find another wire on initial inspection and couldnt figure this out. I figured the MFG was just too cheap to ground the thing or something like that.

Then after diggin around a bit, I found ANOTHER large WHITE wire that only "appeared" to be connected to something, but it was just hidden in the lump of cords with stripped end. The weirdest thing was when I inspected both wires there was no evidence of shrink wrapping, or wire nuts or any kind of splice evidence (twisting) just about 1/8" of copper smooth clean. I expected them to show some evidence of the shrink wrapping at least? Its possible it fell off and into the fixture or something, but still strange.

I followed the larger single loose white wire and realized it was connected to the base of first closest HQI bulb. The other appeared to be a POWER supply line coming INTO the fixture.. To verify this I made SURE the two wires weren't touching anything or each other, and fired up the HQI and T5 ballasts. The T5s lit up fine, but Sure enough one HQI did not light up. Problem solved I needed to reconnect these two wires...and did so.

At the same this test was going on to determine which Light wires were loose, something very weird happened, the ballast started to arc me when I went over to it, I touched it to turn it off again in so I could re -wire the thing permanently. I checked the light fixture to see if the wires had touched something in the light, but There were no shorts inside the light fixture or anything like that from any other wires or the loose ones..it was just the ballast was kinda ARCING on me on the case, very minor but I could see a tiny BLUE spark on my finger when I touched it! hehe

Knowing and hearing all the horror stories about these ballasts, burning up even quickly after they are turned on...I unplugged the thing right away and didnt turn it back on. It was trashed the same day.. DUMPED. I soldered and shrink wrapped the wires to each other and figured all was well?

Ok here are my main question(s)...

How can/do these HQI power WIRES come apart so easily after just taking off the light's end, and without any evidence of any kind of shrink wrap or even nuts or tape? (junky? I know.. hehe)

Also, I want to ask anyone who has worked on this or similar ODY HQI lights a question..(main question)

How does THIS MFG (s) connect the HQI wiring inside the fixtures to the power supply coming in? It appeared the others were all shrink wrapped with that black shrink stuff as I remember? Is that ALL they use to connect them to each other in "normal" situations? Or do they solder them too?

I Soldered and shrink wrapped the two loose ones I found to each other.

I know this is a strange question to ask you might say, "why not just check the light again yourself to see", but I dont own the light anymore, its sold to another reefer.... and worse I am having issues about this solder job with him, I want/need to know how the MFG connects these wires, as he is claiming me SOLDERING them and shrinking them together is "not good or enough" to be safe.

Im thinking jeez, the MFG connected wires can come apart by me just removing the end cap to re-attach the T5s that had shaken loose, and now ME soldering them shrinking them is not good enough?

Any feedback would be great about the MFGs wiring connections/methods and your experience with this regarding these particular lights, as I will need to show that I did a more than FAIR job of reconnecting the wires inside the fixture by soldering them and then shrink wrapping them, going above and beyond even what the MFG does if they only shrink wrap.

Here is another general wiring question for you DIYers out there. Is it normal for any wiring connections like this to be just Shrink wrapped with that shrinking stuff and no soldering or twisting of any kind? Or better yet, what is the BEST way to make connections like this in light fixtures??? How about those hard clamping type tube connectors which crush at each end?

In my experience many MFG use wire nuts and the shrink stuff, but not sure about in lights like this that can come in contact with water if that is safe.

Thanks in ADVANCE for any information on this subject.

BTW: My overall experience with this HQI fixture is still positive...
The fixture housing is solid build well, and still impressed me even with the small wiring issues, the quality of the components seemed OK too. So even after all this I was still pleased with the fixture itself.. And In the end, either way I figured, I planned on rewiring the WHOLE thing If need be to connect the BWV7 and new HO T5 ballast.. But I sold it instead.:eek2:
 
loser

loser

As I told you in the numerours emails since you sold me the NEW and in PERFECT condition fixture, (which obviously is not new nor in PERFECT condition.)

IF wires come apart, the wires are physically conencted, eitehr with a clamp or crimp connector, or twisted, then soldered. Not just laying on top of each other witha glog of solder holding the wires together.

The heat shrink tubing you put on, did not shrink or was the wrong size. The tubing slides up and down exposing the wires, check the gallery.

The ground wire that was screwed tot he fixture housing was a wire that was caught in between the housing and the end cap probably when you put the end cap back on. HAd you checked your work or tested before you sold it, you wuold have found that out, with a very big crack and a good sized shock.

AND THE ONLY ISSUE YOU HAVE WITH ANOTHER REEFER, is that you sold something that was not NEW and not in PERFECT CONDITION, like you advertised. PERIOD

There is no way you or anyone can open up and resolder electornis or wires and call it NEW.

And with your admission in the first several emails to me after I contacted you about that, where you admitted you got shocked by the fixture, I am appalled that you would sell something unsafe, untested, and as NEW.

Why you can not accept that you defrauded me, and other potential buyers by advertising it as NEW and in PERFECT condition is beyond me.

Also, if other readers search for your name and look at the other messages and threads you posted since June both here and oth the other forum reefland.com they will se where you make no metion, NOT ONE where the fixture had any problems, no shocking, no lloose wires, nothing.

Why is that? Why do wait until after you sell junk to ask questions and tell everyone that there were loose wires, and that you opened it up and soldered wires together.

And why I am asking questions, why don't you tell everyone, why fi the bulbs were loose like you claim, why you took the power side end cap off.

The other end cap has a thumb screw where you dont need a screwdriver to open it up.

That side allows you to change the bulbs, or fix them if they are loose..

Bottom line is, if others read your messages, they will see that you intended to change out the ballast from the beginning, and it is more then likely you started to do that by opeingin up the power side of the fixture, cut the wires to install the new lamp cords from the blue wave ballast that you intended on using...

You are a liar a cheat and have no business pretending you are the victim here.

This forum will not let me post private messages here, but since the messages I have from you are not private, I will post them or forward them to anyone who asks...
 
reply

reply

Well, that post above should and will be deleted shortly as I reported it to the MODS, as it is in Violoation of the forum Rules, which Obviously he is not aware of.

Im well aware that RC is not the place for SLANDER, LIABLE, INSULTS and personal arguments, not to mention personal attacks on people, Misquotes and threats (basically to post our private e mails and conversations in here) We have small claims courts for this kind of stuff, which include counter- suits for defamation of character just for one, and all the other above offenses that he directed towards me.

Not that im worried at all that he post what we wrote to each other, what I have told him in e mails has never changed. The whole wiring issues I had with this light were OVER 6 mos ago, And I had to try and remember when talking with him how the whole scenario of the broken wires came about. Since I had fixed that ONE wire, it was a non issue as far as I was conerned.

I had to refresh my mind what EXACTLY happened the day the light arrived at my house when I FIRST Purchased it and how things went down that day when the fixture first arrrived to ME.

I thought back to what happend in the order it happend etc.. so I and looked at past posts I had made on the same subject about 6 mos ago (which I will post in my next thread) I had to refresh my mind abou this wire situation when he e mailed me about finding a Loose wire in the fixture. Of course what he failed to mention was this other wire was FOUND AFTER he had OPENED UP THE SAME end as I did, when the wires came apart on me for the HQIs. He was OPENING up the POWER side of the fixture HIMSELF. Why? He was looking to see if the lights had INTERNAL T5 ballasts which he was asking me about over the phone and in e mails, before and after he purchased the light. I told him they were with the EXTERNAL BALLAST which was pitched do to the fire hazard, I guess he didnt believe me.


I will address this whole situation shortly without having to resort to attacking and insulting anyone or addressing this guy directly. ( Notice I didnt name this guy by name from the GIT go, and could have)

I have waited to reply only because I was carefully thinking of how to respond as not to get MY post deleted, and if to respond at all to the inflammatory post above, assuming his post will be gone by morning, and when it is, no one will know what Im talking about, babbling to myself fighting the air.

But your response, is a good reason I had better respond, and now.

I see that 95 others have read this and probably assume the same as you because of my silence. but my silence does not indicate guilt or agreement with ANYTHING that guy said above.

You should wait before passing judgement on me, because you do not know all the details, and trust me there is another side to this situation, which you will hear some of it, in a moment. I will be interested to see what you think after I post some basic facts about the situation as it unfolded, and not from just HIS side of the story.
 
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aint it great, ya I noticed.. I asked 2x by reporting it to MODS to remove it, as it is blatently breaking the forum posting rules. Amazing.

So, since they refuse to remove it, and I havent responded as promised, I will post a response to the above post, which has already been posted elsewhere on another thread, just not in here. I will post nothing beyond this response, about this topic, since I consider the issue closed and we have already discussed this between us, and have moved on.

ISSUE RESOLVED:

We have solved this issue anyways, it was a mis-understanding basically about offers and counter offers etc... Which, IMHO got carried too far in here, should never have been brought to the RC in the first place.. But thats water under the bridge now....

Bottom line,

He is getting a full refund for the light, as I feel this is the only way to completely solve the problem quickly and easily.

But in my defense, I informed him about the complexity of the DIY WIRING job this light would require to make it work with the new ballasts, asked him if he was "able" to do so, he said "YES", or I wouldnt have sold him the light in the first place... So, apart from the AD says, he knew going in it was a DIY fixture that needed MASSIVE rewiring of the fixture to work.. It was by no means a PLUG and PLAY FIXTURE, and told him so. IF you just look at the AD I placed, I could see people freaking out.. But now that you KNOW the rest of the story somewhat, I hope you can see my point?

Almost every wire in the thing needed to be spliced re-spliced to new power wires from a new T5 ballast (he would provide) and the New HQI ballast he purchased from me, including the repair I made to the power side of the HQIs. So IMHO that repair was a MUTE issue.

This rewiring ISSUE inside the ballast was due to the fact that the light was not sold with the STOCK BALLAST it came with, and I said so in the AD. Another reason is the light also has quick release color connectors with THREE PRONGS each extending from the inside of the light to the outside and about 1ft out..

So as he purchased it, EVERY wire going in has a quick release on it. So in order to rewire the NEW BW ballast to the fixture, he would either have to splice the old connectors on (which I saved for him thinking of him) which I told him might be easy, but NOT ideal unless it was done correctly, and or remove ALL the wiring from WITHIN the fixture, and hard wire all new ballast to each of the bulb sockets Internally, which I CLEARLY told him was the recommended way to hook it up, as this is water tight and safe.

Granted I didnt tell him about the repair at the time of purchase or in the AD, (wrong of me), but as I saw it, he was INFORMED about the necessary rewiring issues internally with the light in e mails and on the phone, and was well aware that he would have had to cut and re splice that wire anyways along with the cut T5 wire he found too. (which I wasnt aware of)

Thus making the repair I made a MUTE issue since it would need to be spliced AGAIN to make it work with the new ballasts, and unless that repair had somehow damaged the lights or fixture somehow. (which it didnt) it was a non- issue as far as I was concerned. When he opened the case he found the repair and another wire I was not aware had broken and asked me about it. I told him about the repair and that I wasnt aware another wire had come free, but reminded him that that same repair wire needed to be spliced again anyways.

However, due to my kindness I provided him with the CUT stock 3 prong quick released color coded connectors from the old ballast to be able to possibly use the quick connects even with the BWVIIs.... ( the existing wires on the fixture still have them on the power sides which then go into the light) thus not necessairly requiring any internal wiring. However I considered this NOT that great an option and told him so(splicing externally) since the light was used around water, and this itself could be dangerous.

Had he tried to splice the stock connectors I gave him (cut from the stock ballast power wires) to the new Blue WaveVII ballast, now that might have been a problem then had my repair given way. However it is still my contention that my repair though not perfect would have held in order to work and power the lights, unless the light was handled too roughly and the wires broke apart or the shrink wrap moved (needed to shrink the covering over the repair splice tighter) I also stated that the STOCK wiring came apart easily as if it was never connected AT ALL on me when I just opened the endcap up, so I contend that even though my repair was NOT perfect it was STRONGER than the original MFG connection which came apart on ME just opening the thing up!

Even though the for sale listing says nothing about the repair, (and people ripped me for this) but they didnt know ALL THE DETAILS Of the transaction (we discussed having to rewire the light toally in e mails and over the phone in order to connect the new ballast and cords he purchased for the HQIs,) this was never discussed anywhere online (my side) where they could see it until I defended myself. There was a LOT more to this deal than just the AD. (though it should have talked about the wire being repaired, I do not discount this) BUT I still say other than that repair, the light was in "LIKE NEW Condition" or "NEW Condtion" overall. Everything else was in perfect condition including the lights, fixture, housing, Bulbs, caps etc. as it was brand new. I was never used. PERIOD. IT was REPAIRED, but the repair needed to be REMOVED to use it. This was clearly discussed.

Bottom line the light needed to be completely rewired in order to function. had he hardwired it using the new cords interally as I recommended and told him about. I knew it, he knew it, from there on, only the condition of the bulbs and fixture were critical IMHO, and they were and still are IMMACULATE brand new and never used more than 5 min, which I LISTED CLEARLY.

So now, Im taking the light and ballast back and giving the guy a full refund, as I see it, it was sold too cheap to begin with. Light and BALLAST , for $250.00. Which is -$50.00 what it COST me for the ballast and cords alone.... new = $300.

I plan on turning it into a FULL T5 fixture with TEK reflectors. And parting out / selling the HQI bulbs, and T5s parts that are in there now. Thats the idea anyways.. Have to see how that will work in reality when I get it back in a few weeks.

I have also corrected the original listing to PUT IN WRITING all the details of the light, what it will take to make it work, and the repaired wire.
 
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correction of innacturacies

correction of innacturacies

This issue is to be resolved and why you feel the need to perpetuate this issue further is beyond me!!!

The Fixture was advertised as NEW, and in PERFECT condition. PERIOD!!!!

No mention was made of any repair work done inside the fixture or the ened to do any rewiring, massive or any at all!!!

The cut ends that you gave me off the lamp cords from the ballast were to have been spliced onto the lamp cords from the Blue Wave ballast that I bought from you at the same time.

If you those 'cut ends' you gave me are teh same connectors as the connectors on the fixture, there is no reason to rewired the internal wiring of the fixture.

This seems to be something you do not understand. This is why I continue to believe that when you intended to upgrade the T5 bulbs and whatever else you had planned, that you opened up the fixture and started the re-wire by cutting the loose wires that i found inside the fixture. This is the only explanation as to why , as you put it, that you allegedly found loose bulbs, that you would open up the POWER side of hte fixture instead of the bulb maintenance side of the fixture.

There is a reason why the bulb maintenance side has a thumb screw to gain access vs the power side that has a half dozen screws.

This is also consistant with why the wires that are 'loose' and respliced together by way of a glob of solder are right at the connector.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8808951#post8808951 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BubbleMonkeyIII
aint it great, ya I noticed.. I asked 2x by reporting it to MODS to remove it, as it is blatently breaking the forum posting rules. Amazing.

So, since they refuse to remove it, and I havent responded as promised, I will post a response to the above post, which has already been posted elsewhere on another thread, just not in here. I will post nothing beyond this response, about this topic, since I consider the issue closed and we have already discussed this between us, and have moved on.
Ocviously, moving on has different meanings for different people[/Color=RED]
ISSUE RESOLVED:

We have solved this issue anyways, it was a mis-understanding basically about offers and counter offers etc...
This had nothing to do with offers or counter offers. It had to do with you either giving me my money back or giving me a discount for my purchasing something from you that you claimed was new when it obviously was not new. The discount was to offset the difference in value of a new fixture vs a fixture that had a broken wire inside and two loose and resoldered wires that also had heat shrink tubing that was not shrunk and was loose thereby exposing the resoldered connections to within an 1/8" of shorting out, (see pics in my gallery)
[/color=red]Which, IMHO got carried too far in here, should never have been brought to the RC in the first place.. But thats water under the bridge now....

Bottom line,

He is getting a full refund for the light, as I feel this is the only way to completely solve the problem quickly and easily.
Unfortunately, quick it aint, as he spent the money Igave him and I have to wait til next month. And although he would like to take credit for this 'quick and easy' solution, it was something he resisted which is why it came to this forum, for me to find out if this type of behavious is commonplace for sellers and buyer tohave to deal with
]/Color=red]

But in my defense, he knew going in it was a DIY fixture that needed MASSIVE rewiring of the fixture to work.. It was by no means a PLUG and PLAY FIXTURE, and told him so.
The only way for me to have know is if I was psychic. By his own admission, he did not tell me anything about the status of the fixture other then to promote the fixture as NEW and in PERFECT condition. he also indicated the same information in a couple of threads on this forum and another forum. In both forums he lied about the fixture as well. No mention of loose bulbs, no mention of getting shocked, no mention of resoldering anything.

He obviously does not know what he is doing or talking about, as the only work recquired to install a new ballast to a fixture that has the same size and correct wattage bulbs would be to install or splice the connector ends to the lamp cord that come with the ballast. Anyone that has done this work knows this. The onlytime you maight have to hard wire the new ballast would be if you did not have the correct connector tomatch what was existing onthe fixture housing.
[/Color=Red]Almost every wire in the thing needed to be spliced to new power wires since the light was not sold with the BALLAST it came with, including the repair I made to the power side of the HQIs. So IMHO that repair was a MUTE issue. Granted I didnt tell him about the repair at the time of purchase or in the AD, (wrong of me),
An admission,but with a discount or the importance or significance...
[/Color=Red]but as I saw it, he was INFORMED about rewiring issues internally with the light in e mails and on the phone,
PLEASE, show or submit one email with your indication that I wuold have to rewire the fixture prior to mybuying the fixture.. [Bold]PLEASE[/Bold
[/Color=Red]]and was well aware that he would have had to cut and re splice that wire anyways along with the cut T5 wire he found too. (which I wasnt aware of)
That wire coincdentially, is and was in the exact same condition and location as what you described to me when I first brought this to your attention via email. And for the sake of argument, you did not know about this wire, the wire was caught between the end cap and the fixture housing, so when you put hte fixture back together, the wire then dropped down and was cut as the location was right at the screw point, (again see picture) This is a great example of two things, 1. why you should never have gone intot he fixture at the power side, and 2. had you tested the fixture after you performed your 'repairs' you would have found out if your reparis were sucessful. But your excuse thatyou had gottenshocked once and did not want to risk getting shocked again, seems to make sense only to you. Go ahead and sell a an untested reparied fixture as NEW and in PERFECT condition.
[/Color=Red]

Thus making the repair I made a MUTE issue since it would need to be spliced AGAIN to make it work with the new ballasts, and unless that repair had somehow damaged the lights or fixture somehow. (which it didnt) it was a non- issue.

However, due to my kindness I provided him with the CUT stock 3 prong quick released color coded connectors from the old ballast to be able to possibly use the quick connects even with the BWVIIs.... ( the existing wires on the fixture still have them on the power sides which then go into the light) thus not necessairly requiring any internal wiring. However I considered this NOT that great an option and told him so(splicing externally) since the light was used around water, and this itself could be dangerous.
his kindness??? Who the heck are you kidding. Why would you not give them with the fixture? Are you going to buy another Odyssea Fixture that you could use them on in the future??? You obvioulsy kept them for a reason.

You seem to get that you dont need to hard wire the ballast to the fixture here, but dont seem to understand that the need to have a quick disconnect vs a hardwire as a safety issue compared to a spliced connector end on a new ballast.

I can understand after seeing the quality and level of expertise you exhibit on your splice / repair job, how you can not figure out how to splice a wire and or protect that repair to be acceptalbe in the salt water environment around a tank. I am surprised you show no signs of concern for the wiring inside the plug outlet near or behind a salt water tank??? (which has no corrosion precautions)
[/Color=Red]

Had he tried to splice the stock connectors I gave him (cut from the stock ballast power wires) to the new Blue WaveVII ballast, now that might have been a problem then had my repair given way. However it is still my contention that my repair though not perfect would have held in order to work and power the lights, unless the light was handled too roughly and the wires broke apart or the shrink wrap moved (needed to shrink the covering over the repair splice tighter)
actly the situation here. See my gallery for a picture of how the shrink wrap is loose and the wires are within an 1/8" from shorting each otehr, not to mention the housing. And really, how much expertise does it take to figure out that laying one wire on another, and dropping a gob of solder is not how to splice wires together. SOLDER LESSON 101: A physical connection is primary to any spicing or wires. Physical conenctioncan be accomplished in a number of ways. Most common would be to strip the insulation from the ends of the wires to expose the inner conductor, (if the wires are to be soldered, you should 'tin' the wire ends with solder, like priming the ends) AFter the wires have been tinned, you should twist the wires together, then heat the wires with a soldering iron, apply a small bit more of solder if necessary, then allow to cool. Inulate, you are done!
[/Color=red]

Even though the for sale listing says nothing about the repair, (and people ripped me for this) but they didnt know ALL THE DETAILS Of the transaction (we discussed having to rewire the light toally in e mails and over the phone in order to connect the new ballast and cords he purchased for the HQIs,) this was never discussed anywhere online (my side) where they could see it until I defended myself. There was a LOT more to this deal than just the AD. (though it should have talked about the wire being repaired, I do not discount this) BUT I still say other than that repair, the light was in "LIKE NEW Condition" or "NEW Condtion" overall. Everything else was in perfect condition including the lights, fixture, housing, Bulbs, caps etc. as it was brand new. I was never used. PERIOD. IT was REPAIRED, but the repair needed to be REMOVED to use it. This was clearly discussed.
[Bold]NEVER and I mean NEVER was it discussed, not in email not in person, not over the phone.[/Bold]And in several threads here and on Reefland.com, did you ever mention the rewiring, that you got shocked or that the fixture needed to be rewired.

The only thing you mentioned was that you heard that this brand of light fixture had a history of bad ballast, and that coincedently your fixture had a bad ballast, that you threw away that ballast after you got shocked, and saw an arc from the ballast. but even with all that, you did see all bulbs fire up for the three minutes you had this fixture turned on.

Your failure to disclose those aforementioned items and your selling of this fixture as NEW and in PERFECT Condition is the entire problem. If you were to advertise the issues clearly when you sell these items in the future, you will likely get less then what I offered you and paid you. That is why I offered you to refund an amount I believe comparitive to the amount I believe you will get.
[/Color=Red]

Bottom line the light needed to be completely rewired in order to function. had he hardwired it using the new cords interally. I knew it, he knew it, from there on, only the condition of the bulbs and fixture were critical IMHO, and they were and still are IMMACULATE brand new and never used more than 5 min, which I LISTED CLEARLY.
Bottom line is that the fixture does not need to be completely rewired. You admit it above, and whether you admit it or not, with the cord ends from the original ballast, and the new lamp cords as supplied by the Blue Wave, Sunlight Corp., All that needs to happen is to identify the hot, neutral and ground wire in the connector end, and splice the lamp cord wires to those wires, and plug that into the fixture and turn on the ballast.
[/Color=Red]

So now, Im taking the light and ballast back and giving the guy a full refund, as I see it, it was sold too cheap to begin with. Light and BALLAST , for $250.00. Which is -$50.00 what it COST me for the ballast and cords alone.... new = $300.
He set the price, and even dropped the price, when no one came up witht eh money even as it was advertised as NEW and in PERFECT condition. I will be very interested in where he will sell this fixture to andhowhe waters down the description and condition. Certainly, this will be another BUYER BE WARE deal
I plan on turning it into a FULL T5 fixture with TEK reflectors. And parting out / selling the HQI bulbs, and T5s parts that are in there now. Thats the idea anyways..
This was his plan from day one, See the numerous threads he has dating back to June of the last year. This is why he has it in his head that the fixture is going to need a full rewire. All he is going to reuse is the aluminum housing and the lens covers.
Have to see how that will work in reality when I get it back in a few weeks.

I have also corrected the original listing to PUT IN WRITING all the details of the light, what it will take to make it work, and the repaired wire.
I wonder why he did this, if he is planning or guttingit and turning it into a TEK 5 VHO???

He is going to target another unwitting buyer...

Good luck to him, hopefully they will ahve read this thread and the one inthe feedback forum...
 
Berg,

Please chill..... you make a LOT of assumptions above in your post about what was my plans were, my intentions, and whats in my head, thats for sure.. I wish you would stop. A lot of what you post about my intentions is just wrong.

The reason I responded to this thread, is becuase this thread remained OPEN for all to see without a response from me. IT Had nothing to do with the other thread you started, where I replied, I figured RC had already deleted your post on this thread because it is in violation of the forum rules, which it is. They did not and Volt's post brought that to my attention.

Because they left it in place, I needed to close the thread out, also because of how BIGIAN replied. I said a response was coming but never replied. Had they deleted it, a reply was not necessary, since they didnt, I was forced to give my side ONE LAST TIME.


If you notice, I never responded to your other post on this thread, I assumed it would be deleted but it was not. Im the one who started this thread never mentioning you at all, but because of your reply I had to.. I didnt want people to think I accepted what was posted about the transaction without MY side of it, whether you believe it or not, it is my right to reply to your post and couldnt leave it unanswered. That was it.

I never said anything derogatory about you or insulting you, as was our agreement. I wouldnt have even responded at all, but then when I saw VOLTS post TODAY, I realized that RC had NOT deleted your post I as I asked, had they, I wouldnt have needed to in the first place.

As far as the quick connects I clearly state you COULD have connected them directly to the ballast by splicing them to the exising ends I PROVIDED and INFORMED YOU ABOUT. I also told you in EMAILS about rewiring the fixture and the DIY nature about the fixture and BALLAST connections. Telling you that HARDWIRING it interally was the BEST way and how I recommended you to do it. This was the WAY I was going to do it as a splice like you mention using the stock connectors is DANGEROUS unless done by a professional. Again it was an OPTION, and not a good one at that.

Yes you could have done that, after opening the case up and figuring which line went where.. My point was, that the repair was solid and that shrink wrap was in PLACE, and you had to MOVE it off the repair and solder with your figures, so had you plugged it in, without opening it, the HQI would have worked as Advertised. But you never connected a working ballast to my repair, to see if it worked even AFTER you found the loose shrinking. So you cannot say it wouldnt have WORKED as it was. And in reality it most likely DOES work as it is.

This is it for me, no more replies anywhere ABOUT THIS.

CASE CLOSED! OK?

As far as selling it, the correction was made SEVERAL DAYS AGO, and I just thought about the gutting it yesterday and keeping it, but wont pull the AD until Im sure I can.

Now, I will probably sell only the BALLAST as BRAND NEW NEVER OPENED. And will post such after I get the light back and see if its doable. Thats why I havent updated it yet.. If I see the fixture again and think its NOT doable, I will sell both again.

I just thought of this mod yesterday actually as I said, I was thinking, Why should I pay for a TEK fixture housing when the ODY has a nice housing.. Ill just gut it and put Tek T5 caps/reflectors in it. Solves that issue right there..

From the start my idea was going to sell the ODY and the Ballast in order to buy another TEK 6 bulb T5 only fixture, I gave up MODDING that HQI the day after I got it, and never planned on it especially when I learned T5s can grow SPS despite what you think or say this is the reality.

Besides, I already use a T5 Nova Extreme, but want 2 more bulbs and better reflectors. I will gut this one and put HO T5s in there, along with TEK retro reflectors.
 
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you are the one making assumption

you are the one making assumption

Everything I stated I can back up. You are the one that was going to rewire the fixture to VHO. You have asked in several threads about it, and discussed how the odyssea fixture / ballast was crap and aa hazard.

You never told me anything about my needing to rewire teh fixture prior to my buying it.

Your finishing the thread here made claims that I was being unreasonable. when in fact it was you trying to sell something as NEW when it was not.

You can not provide any emails or other documentation to sup-port your claims that I knew it was a DIY project to the extent you make claims to. All I had to do was connect the lamp cord ends from the new Blue Wave Ballast to the conenctors. There is nothing that indicated that I would have had to rewired anythign else internally. '
'
Your assumptions that I was going to have to open up the fixture to rewire things and re-do your trash solder jobs, are just that ASSumptions.

Myposting on this thread obviously did not violate any rules or they would have deleted it or warned me about it, neither of which happened.

REgardless if they did or do, does not relieve you of your negligence in selling something by way of FRAUD.

You can claim you are unwittingly responsible, but I see to o many coincendences to believe that, and if you persist in perpetuating or minimizing your responsibility in that regards, we can always go a different course.

I suggest you take you high road and your high horse and take this off the forum, and as this is between you and i.

You need to close the thread out by trying to minimalize your responsibility and pawn it off onto me, is horse hockey.

How many times do you have to say that you should have done this or done that for it to sink in???

What others think is for them to think. If you try to spead bs to make yourslf look good, I will be compelled to spread the truth.

the truth is, you never mentioned anything about any problems inside the fixture. You did not mention you got shocked, you did not mention you opened up the fixture and resoldered wires, you never mentioned anythign about a loose ground wire at the fixture housing, you never mentioned that you (tried) to repair loose wires and did a crappy job, and thought I would be rewiring it anyways.

The only thing you mentioned was that the Fixture was NEW and in perfect condition.

You also mentioned that you had planned to rewire the fixture and redo the T5 into HO.

You mentioned enough nd didnt mention enough to make it look too coincidental to believe that the losoe wire theresoldered wires and the loose ground wire, and the fried ballast were just freak accidents.

So, I suggest you take your feelings of obligation about justifying to teh RC members of how you did nothing wrong and put them in a jar ...

And until you can PROVE that you did advise me prior to the sale of that fixture, of all the things that were wrong inside that fixture, I would keep a low profile until everyoen forgets about you...?


s=&postid=8810610#post8810610 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BubbleMonkeyIII [/i]
Berg,[/Quote]The name is Bergovoy, and since that is my real last name, and shortening or any other variation of it is considered provacative and childish
Please chill..... you make a LOT of assumptions above in your post about what was my plans were, my intentions, and whats in my head, thats for sure.. I wish you would stop. A lot of what you post about my intentions is just wrong.

The reason I responded to this thread, is becuase this thread remained OPEN for all to see without a response from me. IT Had nothing to do with the other thread you started, where I replied, I figured RC had already deleted your post on this thread because it is in violation of the forum rules, which it is. They did not and Volt's post brought that to my attention.

Because they left it in place, I needed to close the thread out, also because of how BIGIAN replied. I said a response was coming but never replied. Had they deleted it, a reply was not necessary, since they didnt, I was forced to give my side ONE LAST TIME.


If you notice, I never responded to your other post on this thread, I assumed it would be deleted but it was not. Im the one who started this thread never mentioning you at all, but because of your reply I had to.. I didnt want people to think I accepted what was posted about the transaction without MY side of it, whether you believe it or not, it is my right to reply to your post and couldnt leave it unanswered. That was it.

I never said anything derogatory about you or insulting you, as was our agreement. I wouldnt have even responded at all, but then when I saw VOLTS post TODAY, I realized that RC had NOT deleted your post I as I asked, had they, I wouldnt have needed to in the first place.

As far as the quick connects I clearly state you COULD have connected them directly to the ballast by splicing them to the exising ends I PROVIDED and INFORMED YOU ABOUT. I also told you in EMAILS about rewiring the fixture and the DIY nature about the fixture and BALLAST connections. Telling you that HARDWIRING it interally was the BEST way and how I recommended you to do it. This was the WAY I was going to do it as a splice like you mention using the stock connectors is DANGEROUS unless done by a professional.
going inside a fixture with a dozen wires confined in a small area and ersoldering the way you did was dangerous. Spicing three wires onto a lamp cord is not as dangerous. But after seeingyour handywork with the soldering iron, I would suggest having a professional doing all the work
Again it was an OPTION, and not a good one at that.

Yes you could have done that, after opening the case up and figuring which line went where.. My point was, that the repair was solid and that shrink wrap was in PLACE, and you had to MOVE it off the repair and solder with your figures, so had you plugged it in, without opening it, the HQI would have worked as Advertised. But you never connected a working ballast to my repair, to see if it worked even AFTER you found the loose shrinking. So you cannot say it wouldnt have WORKED as it was. And in reality it most likely DOES work as it is.
If you look at the picture in my gallery and notice the wires that you soldered and the loose shrink wrap, you will see that the wires are within an 1/8" of each other, and if you understood ballast and the frequencey and voltage that they generate and how that will probably jump that distance of 1/8" you will understand that it is a good thing I did not plug in the Blue wave yet.

I have not done any more work tot he fixture after we finalized our deal. So, unless you want me to finish the testing and hook it up, (and take full responsibility for any problems, please let me know)
This is it for me, no more replies anywhere ABOUT THIS.

CASE CLOSED! OK?

As far as selling it, the correction was made SEVERAL DAYS AGO, and I just thought about the gutting it yesterday and keeping it, but wont pull the AD until Im sure I can.

Now, I will probably sell only the BALLAST as BRAND NEW NEVER OPENED. And will post such after I get the light back and see if its doable. Thats why I havent updated it yet.. If I see the fixture again and think its NOT doable, I will sell both again.

I just thought of this mod yesterday actually as I said, I was thinking, Why should I pay for a TEK fixture housing when the ODY has a nice housing.. Ill just gut it and put Tek T5 caps/reflectors in it. Solves that issue right there..

From the start my idea was going to sell the ODY and the Ballast in order to buy another TEK 6 bulb T5 only fixture, I gave up MODDING that HQI the day after I got it, and never planned on it especially when I learned T5s can grow SPS despite what you think or say this is the reality.

Besides, I already use a T5 Nova Extreme, but want 2 more bulbs and better reflectors. I will gut this one and put HO T5s in there, along with TEK retro reflectors.
 
The two of you have a choice to make. You can either drop this or find a new forum.

We have a feature called an ignore list, I suggest that you take advantage of it.
 
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