Plumbing help with dual overflows

Lowerlevel1

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Hey guys, I need a little help setting up a 225 gallon I picked up. The tank has dual overflows, one in each corner. Each overflow is drilled for two 1 1/4 bulkheads (1" plumbing). What would be the best way to plumb this tank up? I was thinking about using the herbie method, the only problem is that only one overflow would effectively be working. I've considered adding a plexiglass trauf across the back of the tank to make it more like a coast to coast overflow but I still don't know how that would perform if my main drain was on one side of the system. What's your guys thoughts?
 
just a penny for thought, but as of late, I have been plumbing my tanks returns over the top, via to a sea swirl or for just larger feed pump reasons and then utilize all the pre drilled holes as drains.
 
So if you have four drain lines, I'm suspecting the idea would be that two drains act as primary drains while the other two would be overflows. Is it possible to get to drains setup herbie style to flow and work properly? It seams to me if they were to have the slightest height difference you may have problems.
 
There are threads here about two Herbies. Search for them!

Seems balance is a bit trickier but it can be done. This really increases your flow compared to two Durso or only one Herbie with the other OF unused.
 
My 210 has 2 overflows, and I am using the Herbie method. Both drilled holes are the same size. In each overflow I have one full siphon and one emergency.
The return is going up over the back --- split into 2.

Been running for about month and a half now, haven't had any real issues. Make sure that both main drains are the same height. I have a feeling that my right one is slightly higher -- it is draining more.

Make sure that you are using gate valves and not ball -- will need to fine tune things, would guess I sometimes turn them less than 1 degree. Today I changed out the filter socks (( were pretty dirty, first change since I started running water )), and fine tuned each side a bit more today. I find it easier to fine tune them when I can see the air bubbles increasing/decreasing. I got them both running pretty good now, just some slight noise. Can really only hear that noise when my head is inside the stand.

Even with that noise, the fans for the lights (( ATI 8*80 T5)) , within a canopy, is the loudest part of the tank; even that is pretty quiet.

Part of the left drain,

Under6_zpse1113c98.jpg


The right over flow, return and emergency drain

plumbing8_zpsd8bac61a.jpg
 
Thank you everyone for the information, it really helps.

Toddrtex, what size plumbing did you run inside the tank overflows for the drain? The guy that originally had this tank had what I believe was the Marineland intakes. It had about a 2" piece of 1" pipe with a bushing jumping the pipe up to a 2" for the rest of the drain. I was a little unsure the idea behind this as it will only flow as fast as the 1" pipe would allow. On the gate valve I understand using bushings to go up in size so that the gate valve, if fully open is no less than the inside diameter of the 1" pipe. Correct?
 
Thank you everyone for the information, it really helps.

Toddrtex, what size plumbing did you run inside the tank overflows for the drain? The guy that originally had this tank had what I believe was the Marineland intakes. It had about a 2" piece of 1" pipe with a bushing jumping the pipe up to a 2" for the rest of the drain. I was a little unsure the idea behind this as it will only flow as fast as the 1" pipe would allow. On the gate valve I understand using bushings to go up in size so that the gate valve, if fully open is no less than the inside diameter of the 1" pipe. Correct?

All of it is 1". I tend to prefer slower flow through the sump, so 1 inch is more than capable of handling the flow I am running.

Hmm, that would make sense, you are going for higher flow, to set up in size for the gate valves.
 
Thanks Toddrtrex for the info. Its been real helpful. I think I have an idea what I'm going to do now. I'll run the two sets of Herbies and fine tune them. I'll bring the return line up the back of the tank, split the line to go to two sea-swirls. However, I believe I may have to revisit the sump again. I designed a custom sump. The original guy I had to build said no problem then stopped returning my call. I talked with another guy last week and he said he could do it, and he'd have a price to me by the weekend and nada.... I saw yours in your tread and its real similar to that design. I emailed them to see if their interested, so we'll see.
 
With 4 holes you should be able to set it up as a beananimal overflow and still keep one for the return. You don't get as good of surface skimming with those reef ready tanks (especially the ones with slots cut at the bottom) but it still should do the job and remain silent and pretty much fail safe.

The C2C mod would work well as long as you plug up any holes in the corner overflows so all the water goes over the C2C weir along the back.
 
You can't run a bean animal without three holes per overflow. He has two overflows with 2 holes each for 4 so a three pipe bean is not a possibility without drilling the tank.
 
You can't run a bean animal without three holes per overflow. He has two overflows with 2 holes each for 4 so a three pipe bean is not a possibility without drilling the tank.

starting to feel like a broken record now, LOL. it's not ideal but where else is the water going to go if not down the full siphon line, then to the open channel and if one of those clogs to the dry emergency by which time the air inlet on the open channel has gone under water converting it to siphon? It doesn't matter if they aren't all in the same chamber. I guess you could just call it a herbie with an extra dry emergency overfow then........same diff.
 
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