Portland Cement
- Thread starter rfd515
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a1amap
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Though all portland cement is basically the same, many types of cement are manufactured to meet different physical and chemical requirements for specific applications.
Type I General-purpose portland cement suitable for most uses.
Type II Moderate sulfate resistance. Life expectancy in the marine environment of 20 to 35 years
Type III Cement provides high strength at an early state, usually in a week or less.
Type IV Moderate heat during hydration that is used for massive concrete structures such as dams.
Type V Resists chemical attack by sulfates. Seawater contains 150 to 1500 ppm of sulfates.
Type GU - General Use
Type HE - High Early-Strength
Type MS - Moderate Sulfate Resistance
Type HS - High Sulfate Resistance
Type MH - Moderate Heat of Hydration
Type LH - Low Heat of Hydration
Type HAC - High Alumina Content
Type S - Hydrated Lime, higher calcium content, (calcium hydroxide), Faster cure
Types IA, IIA and IIIA â€"œ Cements used to make air-entrained concrete. They have the same properties as types I, II, and III, except that they have small quantities of air-entrained materials combined with them.
White portland cement is made from raw materials containing little or no iron or manganese. (The substances that give gray cement its color.) Thorite often used in online articles is hydraulic cement that will have a faster cure time. Commonly branded as Quikcrete, it cost more the typical type II Portland, but the cure time is faster. Certified for use in wells and cisterns, it is safe for aquarium use. The water-stop cement isn't different from standard portland as far as porosity goes. The property that makes this product ideal for waterproofing is the quick setting time and the ability to place it on a wet area, and it will still cure. Polymer-modified mixtures (sealbond) are also stronger, bond better, with no shrinkage or cracking. None of these features alter the pore structure of the mix. The basic difference in these mixes is rapid setting mixtures can be used in a couple of days, with no PH swings, while standard portland mixes require a month dry curing and a month of wet curing (purging).
Type I General-purpose portland cement suitable for most uses.
Type II Moderate sulfate resistance. Life expectancy in the marine environment of 20 to 35 years
Type III Cement provides high strength at an early state, usually in a week or less.
Type IV Moderate heat during hydration that is used for massive concrete structures such as dams.
Type V Resists chemical attack by sulfates. Seawater contains 150 to 1500 ppm of sulfates.
Type GU - General Use
Type HE - High Early-Strength
Type MS - Moderate Sulfate Resistance
Type HS - High Sulfate Resistance
Type MH - Moderate Heat of Hydration
Type LH - Low Heat of Hydration
Type HAC - High Alumina Content
Type S - Hydrated Lime, higher calcium content, (calcium hydroxide), Faster cure
Types IA, IIA and IIIA â€"œ Cements used to make air-entrained concrete. They have the same properties as types I, II, and III, except that they have small quantities of air-entrained materials combined with them.
White portland cement is made from raw materials containing little or no iron or manganese. (The substances that give gray cement its color.) Thorite often used in online articles is hydraulic cement that will have a faster cure time. Commonly branded as Quikcrete, it cost more the typical type II Portland, but the cure time is faster. Certified for use in wells and cisterns, it is safe for aquarium use. The water-stop cement isn't different from standard portland as far as porosity goes. The property that makes this product ideal for waterproofing is the quick setting time and the ability to place it on a wet area, and it will still cure. Polymer-modified mixtures (sealbond) are also stronger, bond better, with no shrinkage or cracking. None of these features alter the pore structure of the mix. The basic difference in these mixes is rapid setting mixtures can be used in a couple of days, with no PH swings, while standard portland mixes require a month dry curing and a month of wet curing (purging).
coralnut99
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Thanks a1amap, I love it when folks present such complete info in a short and sweet fashion. Thanks for taking the time to share.
a1amap
New member
In small quantity's you can put it in the tank right away. Search for threads by mr wilson on RC he uses a combo of Live rock and thorite (quickcrete) to make it one piece (also makes walls). If you make a complete rock out of it I would let it harden but the wet purge should be substantively less.
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