Post-wipeout analysis

mikester

Premium Member
I have suffered a near total wipeout of fish in my tank to what I first thought was Ick, but now I'm not so sure. I want to get some input on what the potential problems were, so that I can properly treat the tank before stocking again. Right up front, I want to say - I was stupid. I didn't quarantine and I added fish too quickly - I know it, so there's no reason to beat a dead horse. I now have a QT setup and all future fish will be added 1 at a time after 4-6 weeks of quarantine.

Here is my tank data and water parameters (which have seemingly been very good the whole time):

75g main tank, 15g sump, 20g refugium, DSB in main tank and refugium, 120 lbs. live rock, LifeReef VS2-24 protein skimmer (didn't use it too much - still tweaking the pump adjustments). No macros in the refugium yet. Total circulation is about 15-20x the tank volume.

Water parameters - ammonia and nitrites at 0, nitrates < 5ppm, pH 8.0-8.2, temp is a steady 80F (chiller, temp controller), salinity is a steady 1.026 (auto topoff system).

Here is the history of my tank, which was setup about 2 months ago. Hopefully someone can help me figure out exactly what the problem was:

- Setup the tank with 120 lbs. of fully cured liverock. Never observed a cycle. Added fresh shrimp for several days - never triggered an ammonia spike. After 10 days, I added 3 chromis to tank.

- Next day after the chromis were added, 2 of them had what appeared to be bloody bruises on them. I assumed they had been fighting (the 3rd one never hung out with them - he always hid). The next day, one of the bruised ones was dead, the next day the other one. Then a couple days later, the surviving chromis had a smaller bruise on him in the same spot. No one to fight with at this point, so I figured he maybe scraped against a rock, maybe a bacterial infection. It's been getting better although he still has a slight bruise at this point.

- A week or so later, added a lawnmower blenny to take care of all the hair algae growing in the tank.

- Really dumb move #1 - about a week later, found a Potter's angel that I really wanted. I knew I should wait at least 6 months before adding an angelfish, but you don't see potter's around that often, and heck, I had all that hair algae it could eat. :rolleyes:

- About a week later, got a pair of tank-raised ocellaris clowns from a friend. One died the next day. Bought a wild caught ocellaris to replace her (didn't want the male to change to a female, so I acted quickly). It died 3 days later. Got a replacement (store has a 7 day warranty - nice).

- By this point, I was thinking I might have an ick infection, because my angelfish was going up to every fish in the tank and rolling on its side, like it wanted to be cleaned. And I observed a few spots on it. I have oolitic sand in my tank and very strong circulation, so I was never really sure when I observed these spots on fish if it was ick or just sand particles on them. Especially on the clownfish, since they would dig around in the sand.

- Thinking I might have a "mild" ick infection, I decided to get a cleaner to help out. Cleaner shrimp were out of the question, because I want to get a flame hawk eventually, so I decided on a neon goby (had one before, great cleaner). Someone told me Petco had them, went to 3 stores and couldn't find one, but alas, at one store - they had an orchid dottyback, which was another fish I wanted to add eventually and is hard to find. So I made Stupid Impulse Purchase #2. Added the dottyback and it did fine - started eating right away, and even came out more than I expected.

- I wake up one morning last week and check the tank and the male clownfish from the original pair had some white spots on it. That night when I got home, he was dead. It looked to me like the dottyback and angelfish also had white spots (mostly noticeable on their fins). I didn't observe anything on the female clownfish, but the next day she was dead too.

- This is when I really started to think I had a problem. The chromis deaths were easy to dismiss to fighting, but now I had lost 4 clownfish in a 2 week period. That's when I started doing more reading, and I went out a purchased a QT setup over the weekend and started mixing a batch of saltwater to set it up with.

- Stupid purchase #3 - I returned the second female clownfish under warranty and decided to replace it with a maroon clownfish (should have just taken the store credit and waited until everything was sorted out). Added it to my tank, it hosted immediately in my LTA and was eating and doing great. This was on Sunday.

- Monday morning - the dottyback is dead when I get up. That night the angelfish is near death. I manage to catch him - which tells me how weak he really was - and gave him a 5 minute formalin dip, but it was too little too late and he died an hour later. I setup the QT that night, but waited to fill it because the saltwater had not been aerated for a full 24 hours yet.

- Last night - the clownfish isn't looking too good. Very lethargic in the anemone, wouldn't come out to eat. I finish setting up the QT and add formalin and copper (.1 ppm to start). By this time the clownfish is looking bad - I move him to the QT but it was too late. Now all I have are the chromis and blenny, neither of which show any signs of problems.

Other potential factors I have noticed:
- I've seen the chromis nip at all the clownfish at one time or another. Last night, when the maroon clown was looking really weak, I saw the chromis go over and start harassing it. Maybe I have a particularly aggressive one? Maybe he killed the other 2 chromis (although he was by far the smaller of the 3)?
- I've also seen the lawnmower blenny harass the angelfish and my emerald crabs - anything else that grazes on the rocks. Both it and the chromis are gone after I catch them and treat them in the hospital tank for anything they might be carrying.
- Lately I've seen a lot of very fine particles blowing around in the current. I thought they were just sand particles, but is it possible they could be ick and the fact I can see them means it's a pretty heavy infestation?
- All invertebrates are doing fine.

So where I'm at now - 2 fish which will be treated and given away. Tank is going fallow for 6 weeks. I'll start over again slowly, adding 1 fish at a time after 4-6 weeks in quarantine.

Here's my concern - if this was ick, I've never heard of it acting so quickly. The maroon clownfish was dead within 2 days. Most of the fish went from visible specs to dead within a matter of a day or two. Some of them had no visible signs of ick at all.

So, I'm wondering if there is something else that was at fault - a bacterial infection or something? Is there anything (antibiotics, etc.) I should consider treating the main tank with during that 6 weeks, to make sure I can safely add fish again (any treatment needs to be invertebrate safe)?
 
What are your parameters at now? Ammonia, etc? Just a thought, but when you say you added "fresh" shrimp - is that raw shrimp, or cooked cocktail shrimp? When you say the shrimp were in there for several days, and didn't cause an ammonia spike, that confuses me. I know when I added a raw shrimp to my tank, in two days it was rotten and stinking and added quite a bit of ammonia. My guess is if the shrimp were cooked, maybe they didn't rot, and your tank didn't cycle properly until you started adding all those fish. I'd check your parameters, my belief is you might be in the middle of a cycle now. I'm sorry you had to go through such a rough time with your tank - it's unfortunate, but we all do dumb things when we're first starting out. I know I've been extremely lucky!
 
I added raw shrimp just to test the cycle when I first setup the tank. Never saw an ammonia spike, but like I said - that live rock was very well cured.

I didn't test my parameters last night, so it is possible that maybe the deaths from the previous day (even though the bodies weren't in there that long) started a cycle which is what killed the clownfish. I will test tonight to see if that is the case.

But the last time I tested was Sunday night, and everything was fine. So at most, if something did trigger a cycle, I would only attribute it to the last clownfish death. But again, I think that's unlikely - if I were having a cycle, I would think that my anemone would be noticeably upset and it's looking normal.
 
Yeah, that is definitely unusual... even with well cured rock I would have thought you would have seen SOME sort of a ammonia spike. I agree, your anenome would likely look very unhappy if you were in the middle of a cycle... If your parameters were fine on Sunday, I doubt they've changed much. Perhaps someone with more experience can shed a bit more light on your situation. I think I read your first post too quickly before replying - you did state that your parameters were fine the whole time. Sorry about that! Good luck!
 
Do you ever hear clicking at night coming from the tank? The bruses on the fish almost sound like maybe a mantis shrimp. Are the fish dead or just gone, maybe half eaten?
DLCKWOOD:sad2:
 
I thought about the possibility of a mantis, but I would think the fish would disappear in that case. In all cases except 1, the bodies were intact, and in 3 of the case I actually saw them die.

The one exception was the last ocellaris that died - I couldn't find the body for 3 days, then I saw a white blob stuck on the teeth of my overflow that I'm pretty sure were the remains. Either it was way back in the rocks and the crabs got to it, or maybe the anemone ate it after it died and what I saw 3 days later was the waste from the anemone.
 
I am very suspicious of the ammonia readings. What brand of kit are you using and did you ever get the water tested with another kit? How old is the ammonia kit?

The term "cycling" is very misleading and doesn't really reflect what is going on. During the break-in period for a tank, a build up of nitrifying bacteria is required. The nitrifying bacteria use ammonia and nitrite as an energy source and the population will only build up if there is sufficient ammonia and nitrite being produced for them to utilise.

In a brand new tank there is very little ammonia. When an ammonia source is added (such as a piece of decomposing shrimp), there is much more ammonia than bacteria to utilise it and so you get an ammonia reading. As the bacteria increase in numbers, they utilise more of the ammonia and the level will start to fall, but this can result in having too many bacteria for the amount of ammonia and so many bacteria die off. This bacteria population will rise and fall until an equilibrium is reached - and they can utilise the ammonia as soon as it is produced.

The bacteria that utilise ammonia, oxidise the ammonia to nitrite. A different group of bacteria utilise the nitrite as an energy source. However, this second group of bacteria are inhibited by high ammonia concentrations, and so their populations won't start to grow until the first group has reached equilibrium. This is why the break-in period typically takes a few weeks or more.

Cured live rock is simply live rock where most of the organisms that were on it have died off (which to me is pointless, but that's a whole separate discussion). All this does is greatly reduce the chances of anymore die-off which can cause an increase of organic matter and then ammonia. It does not necessarily mean that there will be sufficient bacteria on the live rock to provide filtration for a tank of fish.

Depending on how the live rock was cured and how soon after it was cured that you got it would govern how much bacteria it would have on it. If it was cured in a closed system, it probably has a lot of bacteria. The longer the time since it was cured without an external source of ammonia, the fewer bacteria that would be present.

The "bruises" on the chromis are consistent with high ammonia. High ammonia could also kill the fish pretty quickly. At this point I suspect the earlier deaths were caused by ammonia.

The spots on the later fish suggests "Ich". A few spots on the fish is generally not enough to kill a fish unless infection in the gills is severe. What was the breathing rate like on the fish that were dying? A severe infection - usually accompanied by a large number of visible spots on the body, fins and eyes, can kill a fish overnight.

Formalin dips or baths won't do anything for "Ich". In fact, there's very little you can do while it is on the fish. Copper or hyposalinity are the only effective treatments.
 
All my test kits are Salifert. My ammonia kit is about 8-10 months old (I've almost used it up and just bought a replacement, but haven't had to use it yet). I have also had my water tested twice at the LFS recently because they require it to honor their warranty on the dead fish and their results were consistent with mine. Also, wouldn't high ammonia have some effect on the inverts?

You could be right about ammonia causing the earlier deaths, and maybe my test kit had just gone bad. I didn't have a tank for about 6 months and we went through a move, so maybe the test kits were exposed to bad conditions at some point during the move.

The fish that I observed dying recently were breathing very rapidly, so they must have had their gills infected pretty badly. There were definitely visible signs of ick on several of the recent deaths, I just didn't think it was bad enough to kill the fish so rapidly. Especially that maroon clown - 2 days! When I got it, I figured worst case I would be moving it to my hospital tank in a day or two so if it did pick up the ick from the tank, it would be treated before it could get too bad at all. Had I known it could be overwhelmed within 2 days, I would have waited to get it.
 
at this point if its fishless just let your tank chill for about 6 - 8 weeks. just feed it every so often. leave it fishless this should kill the ich thats in your tank. then QT every new fish u get and make sure u select them in a order that would be good for the fish . i would say that if u want a GB maroon make it one of the last fish u throw in.
 
Velvet anyone? Sounds more like this to me. Kills faster than ick and harder to treat. Rapid breathing is a tell tell sign also. A healthy GSM wouldn't die after 2 days of ick exposure but velvet in high concentrations in the tank is another story.
FWIW I wouldn't use formalin and copper together. Copper for velvet but it has to be monitered with a kit daily to be theraputic. Or formalin as a bath just not together.
 
Dugh, Don't ussually look at the date :) just whats up top! Wonder why someone posted on it and brought it out from way back. Probably someone like me doing research and forgot they were in old posts and posted he he. I have been known to do that. This is kinda funny.
 
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