I would think the float valve should be okay with that pressure if it indeed still 30#. I have a float valve that stops the pressure from my garden hose (45#).
i've used kent floats for years, both after a RO and also straight through (just sediment/carbon) with no problems. a friend has 80psi and it's no problem on his RO setup either.
lowes sells these little brass gate valves that you could easily put on the rigid tubing going to your RO. They are sold in the section where all the little white bags are hanging on the wall.
It will be a lot cheaper than that and probablly do the same thing.
"a gate valve would do *nothing* to affect the incoming pressure."
That is a true statement under a zero flow condition.
That means when the float valve is closed the pressure on both sides of the gate valve are equal ( because there is no flow through the GV ). This is the intention of putting a valve on the input of the RO/DI. So the pressure will equal to house pressure on the input to the RO/DI.
However, when there is high flow, there certainly is a pressure drop across the ( partially closed ) valve.
So Manderex is correct, a valve would not help in this situation.
My RO/DI is hooked directly to my house line at the clothes washing machine. I even use the washer drain for the waste drain.
The psi going to the ro is too high for the float valve. so having the brass gate valve reduces the amount of water going into the RO. (which is kind of like reducing the PSI)
and you do not have to worry about the brass because it is before the RO, not after.
Reeferon,
as stated above, a valve will only reduce the flow..but the pressure will STILL be the same, if you put a pressure reducing valve before thr ro you will be fine. most faucets are made of brass, just think about what your water travels thru, copper pipe?
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