Quality LED's

I was wanting to build a controller that would simulate dusk to dawn electronicaly with my new led i built. After reading and searching I found out about arduino boards and building controllers with them. It costs about $60 to build but its pretty awesome from what I can tell. I think im going to start my build next week. Here is a link to the info and a build. Check it out.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110
 
Good stuff! I think I'm going to start with 2 rows of blues to try out the actinic look. Then see how it goes before I scrap my MH's.

Now, if only I could get a couple days off to start our tank rebuild.....
 
MrHarvard, the dimmers from rapid are also 60 and do pretty much the same thing with no assembly required . . .

~Will.
 
Anyone want to contact some of these manufactors and ask if they will do a group buy for us? =D

I contacted the company I got my led kit from about a group buy....They said for an order of at least 500 bulbs we can get them at $1.20 each this includes (white,royal blue, and red). I am very pleased with mine so far. I got my entire kit (24 bulbs,heatsinks, dim able drivers, fan, all wires and connectors,everythng you need) for $130.00 shipped to my door! You can check out the picks under my light on the Tampa bay site I posted them there. If you guys are interested let me know. If you need drivers and heatsinks they said they would work out a deal on those as well....
 
MrHarvard, the dimmers from rapid are also 60 and do pretty much the same thing with no assembly required . . .

~Will.

The drivers themselves will dim without a controller without manually doing it? Like sunset simulation? Or do u have to have a controller to use the PWM feature or an Arduino board hooked up to it?
 
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-159/DDC-dsh-01-PWM-Controller/Detail

thats the link to them, check the users manual for more specifics. looks like they need to be plugged in to a timer to function properly, but they deliver the ramping up and down once their turned on if set up correctly. I have 2 in my project box and will be able to get a better feel for exactly how they function once the rest of my LED's arrive and I can start playing around with them.

~Will.
 
he said you can choose any color combo's you want. figuring out how many is the hard part for me. i dont know if i need 3 48kits or 2 or if i could get away with 1? who knows..... I am thinking start with one and move up as I can, but i cant even find the damn heat sink that I want. I am looking for a heat sink of about 15x15 or something close to that. I want room to grow!
 
Hey life. I heard running so many drivers isn't great. I need a lot of LEDs for my tank to. But I'm holding out for a driver that can handle 48 to a driver. There is a meanwell driver than can do 48 but rapidled don't have it in stock.
 
Hey guys the LEDs I can get the group buy on are bridgelux...at $1.20 each (white,red,royal blue). I dnt think your gnna find a better deal..minimum order is 500 for this price. If your talking alot more the price may even get better. He also said he can do deal on heatsinks as well and package deals....let me knw if your interested and I cam give you the information.....
 
The only thing I would change on my setup is my heatsink material. I bought two 10" x 12" heatsinks from heatsinkusa. Nice heatsink but once I placed my 24 LEDS on it, I find it impossible to increase the density of the lights. So if I wanted to add more lights I would have to remove all the LEDS and rearrange the array. Difficult. Of course I got around this issue by adding two strips of LEDS parrallel to the two banks. More light but Im maxed out by the realestate above my tank.

I think the superior design would be to think of them as t5 lighting. Setup your Leds on 1 inch squared tubing (or better yet u tube) the length of your tank. That way if you need more Led's you simply add more strips of leds. It allows you to very easily change the layout. When you want to adjust your lighting, you can easily remove 1 strip of LEDS, add different colors, different efficiencies, brighter LEDS, to your hearts content.

One thing people dont really think about is what will happen if one LED gets unsodered or has some other sort of problem (trust me it will happen). Well with a linear approach you can simply remove that one problem LED strip and work on it. If you have an entire 12 inch by 48 inch array or even some kind of chasis to hold your array, you will need to remove the entire setup. Just more of a PIA.

So if you think your LED setup requires 120-180 LED's. Build 10 strips with 12 LEDS on each strip, with perhaps and inch gap between each strip. If it is not enough light add another strip or two and reduce the gap.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

Ken
 
Jeep - those units are too small to cover 1/3 of my tank so i would end up having to buy 6 of them it would seem to cover my 210. Its is a great deal for people with smaller tanks and they use quality cree led's too.

gator- yea the 48 would be awesome, just get a couple of those and a ton of led's

mrharvard- it looks like cree are the way to go for quality leds

sforlando- thanks for more great info Ken, how come you say it would be hard to add more to the 10 x 12 heatsink? thats what i was looking to do is get a huge one and add more as needed.
 
Life - You can definitely pack a lot of LEDs on a 10 x 12 heatsink. (I have 24 cool white XR-E's on each of my 2 pendants). The problem is that once you have them screwed on/epoxied on its hard to modify it.

Heres a pic of one of my two pendants in one of the early stages of wiring.
ledfixture.jpg


If I want to add a dozen more LED's to that fixture its gonna look weird unless I remove all of them and redo it. I want to add some red leds and having difficulties figuring out how to put it on.

The link that Fuzzy added is exactly the way most people are doing it. The OP can easily put 50% more LED's or add more colors by changing the spacing between the long heatsinks and adding another string of LED's.
 
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Ken,

Great info, and you are right on track. I think the long rail setup is the way to go, and it would be the way I would like to do mine. There is actually a company making LED "bulbs" that use T5 end caps and run right off of 110V. They come in white, blue and combo, so you can mix and match as you see fit. However I have no idea what the name of the company was... The guy down in Wekiva sells them..

I really like that concept and think it would be be pretty easy to do. Maybe do some all white, some all blue and some combos, then mix and match the way you want.

So who is going to put up the spreadsheet so we can get the list going?

Jack
 
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