Question about float switches

[ianiwane]

I will soon have 2 tanks hooked up to a single sump. I have continuous syphon overflow boxes on both tanks. They have aquafliter pumps on them. I was wondering if it were possible to make something from parts from aquahub.com to turn off my main return pump if either of the tanks water levels would get too high (if the syphon breaks). I think it should be possible, it would all be about wireing the float switches in series or parallel. It all depends on how the switches work. Anybody have a clue? Both tanks are glass and I did not want to drill them. Esp the ADA tank b/c of it being rimless.

 

[Thales]

I would just get a pre wired unit from www.autotopoff.com.

 

[ianiwane]

Only problem is I don't want it for auto top off purposes. I don't see anything at autotopoff.com that would fit what I need. I already have their dual ato that I will be using in the sump.

 

[Thales]

Oops - get a double float switch, make the switches the same, put one in each tank and plug the pump into the float switch plug. They can also make it for you with longer cords or whatever you like. JMO!

 

[ianiwane]

hmmm, maybe I can just ask for a custom job. I've been doing a little more reading about this and it does not actually seem too hard to do myself. But it would be easier for someone else to do it for me lol.

 

[Elite]

If you remove the bottom switch, you will get what you want.

**Edit**
you guys type too fast

 

[ianiwane]

Hmm, only problem now is I like how aquahub.com's snail guard and hanging kit looks. Ahhhh, I can never have the best of both worlds. BTW Rich, the table I got from you still looks great.

 

[dswong01]

 

[Kinetic]

I have a reef fanatic level controller which comes with two float switches. It works great for my ATO needs, and that second switch... well nothing's ever failed to need it to trip.

 

[Thales]

Art, he isn't going to be using it for top off!

Glad the table looks good!

 

[dswong01]

It kinda have to work oppostie of what a top off would do. Definetly would have to use a relay that would open up A/C circuit when the switch reaches the top water level.

 

[Thales]

Float switches can be either normally open or normally closed - you change it by flipping the float where the magnet that controls the switch lives.

 

[Sparkss]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10473712#post10473712 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Thales
Float switches can be either normally open or normally closed - you change it by flipping the float where the magnet that controls the switch lives.

exactly.. by flipping the float over you change if it closes the switch when the level rises too high or drops too low. Pretty simple actually, so don't let it intimidate you . While they are easy enough to DIY, and we do a fair bit of DIY ourselves, it is also sometimes jsut easier and worth the extra $$ to get one pre-built for you. We have ordered 3 different setups from autotopoff.com ourselves, and still use 2 of them (The 3rd got sold with one of our old setups). And those should be able to be modified (flipped floats) to work for your needs. The only question would be how close the tanks were that you wanted to monitor the levels on. (becaus the pre-built dual float switch units typically have pretty short wires). So for that reason you may need to pursue building one yourself. Just wire them both NC with the float at the bottom of the holder and wire them in series to power the relay that controls the power to the pump. Also check the service rating for the relay to make sure that it is rated for continuous operation. Most ATOs the realy only comes on momentarily, for a few minutes each time, when the ATO needs to add water. Yours would be running the pump (and relay) 24/7, and only would trigger and shut off if there was a high level problem. That piece of it would be another reason you might have to piece one together youreslf. I would also recommend using low voltage through the floats and relay control side. Just a personal preferrence. The extra $10 for the tranformer is worth it for safety and piece of mind and might actually work out better for the relay since the control voltage would be lower and would mean less heat.

Lots of info I spewed out.. I hope that some of it helps you out

 

[Thales]

Or buy the prebuilt and extend the wires. Thats really easy!

 

[Sparkss]

yea.. so long as the relay is duty rated to handle the 24/7 activation.

Then again I started thinking about latching relays, which would get around that issue (and autotopoff.com does have a setup that uses a latching relay.. I know, we use it ourselves ). But that would entail 2 separate setups, one for each tank and just put the power cords to the pump in series.

But then again I am likely just over thinking this

 

[ianiwane]

Hmm, tanks are right next to each other. How would I know if the relay is rated to handle 24/7 activation?