I just got a 44 gallon tank with 35lb of live rock in the tank. I have a Pro Clear 75 wet/dry for filtration with a rio 2100 for the return pump. My lighting is the Coralife Lunar Aqualights Compact Fluorescent Strip Lights 24in. which are on timers. I have a 300 watt Won titanium heater. The tank has been cycling for about 4 weeks. I started off with only 4 Chromis Green fish a couple days ago. I noticed about a week after I got the filter system my level of water in the sump drops a few inches a day. My temperatue is about 83 degrees F even though my heater is now set at 73. There is no direct sunlight on the tank, my house temp is always at 70 and no heat ducks near the tank. I keep adding about a gallon or two every other day. Is this normal or have I done something wrong.
Question on Evaporation and heating
- Thread starter djk1
- Start date
Glove
New member
Welcome to reef keeping.
Your temp of 83 is a little high (even though your heater SAYS it is set on 73 doesnt mean it IS 73)...try turning it down a bit more?
(I might be wrong thinking that heater is a bit large for that tank...?)
Also you can try to get a fan to blow across the top of the water and below the light- this will cause more issues with the second part of your question. Water evaporation varies from locaion to location, amount of surface area, temps, humidity, season, ect ect....
It might be time to look into an automatic top off system (of some sort-there are several ways to accomplish that) I see you have a wet/dry filter, that makes an auto top off (ATO) a little easier.
The thing you are trying to achieve is STABILITY in temp and salinity. Some like 1.024, some like 1.026 .... some want 74 degrees lighs off and 76 degrees lights on- some want 78 lights off / 80 lights on... but try to keep the fluctuation as small as you possibly can. If your running 83 now- thats not going to allow for a warm day around your house.
Your temp of 83 is a little high (even though your heater SAYS it is set on 73 doesnt mean it IS 73)...try turning it down a bit more?
(I might be wrong thinking that heater is a bit large for that tank...?)
Also you can try to get a fan to blow across the top of the water and below the light- this will cause more issues with the second part of your question. Water evaporation varies from locaion to location, amount of surface area, temps, humidity, season, ect ect....
It might be time to look into an automatic top off system (of some sort-there are several ways to accomplish that) I see you have a wet/dry filter, that makes an auto top off (ATO) a little easier.
The thing you are trying to achieve is STABILITY in temp and salinity. Some like 1.024, some like 1.026 .... some want 74 degrees lighs off and 76 degrees lights on- some want 78 lights off / 80 lights on... but try to keep the fluctuation as small as you possibly can. If your running 83 now- thats not going to allow for a warm day around your house.
Jeff_edge540
New member
I have almost the same setup as you (56gal with 30" orbit lunar lights 2-65w PC) using a 75gal proclear w/d with skimmer and using Mag7 for return.
My temps are 76.5 in the morning and 77.5 in the afternoon. I keep my house at 70. I loose about .75" a day in the sump. I use a 200w glass heater in the sump.
Your heater is most likely causing your heat issues. Turn it down or unplug it for a few hours and keep an eye on the temp. Also, get a second opinion on the temp (buy another thermometer).
My temps are 76.5 in the morning and 77.5 in the afternoon. I keep my house at 70. I loose about .75" a day in the sump. I use a 200w glass heater in the sump.
Your heater is most likely causing your heat issues. Turn it down or unplug it for a few hours and keep an eye on the temp. Also, get a second opinion on the temp (buy another thermometer).
Jeff_edge540
New member
Then just turn your heater down over night to see if that helps.
Jeff_edge540
New member
I would definetely not change your return pump for heat issues. The Rio 2100 does not produce that much heat & you need the flow.
Glove
New member
I was thinking you might try a smaller heater- maybe (2)100 watt heaters.
Unpluging the heater is only going to help you diagnose the problem. I wouldnt depend on remembering to plug/unplug on a daily basis.
Do you have the tank covered?
Try raising the lights a little. Those Coralife fixtures run warmer than the Current/Orbit models.
I have played with the 30 and 24 inch over a shallow tank of about 10 inches deep and 30 long and had wonderful results. I was only using a 50w heater to keep temps stable after lights out. Evaporation was minimal- I could even keep the tank covered.
Unpluging the heater is only going to help you diagnose the problem. I wouldnt depend on remembering to plug/unplug on a daily basis.
Do you have the tank covered?
Try raising the lights a little. Those Coralife fixtures run warmer than the Current/Orbit models.
I have played with the 30 and 24 inch over a shallow tank of about 10 inches deep and 30 long and had wonderful results. I was only using a 50w heater to keep temps stable after lights out. Evaporation was minimal- I could even keep the tank covered.
There is a light on the heater and when it is under the temp the light intensifies. I also have a cover over the tank and the light is sitting directly on top of the cover. I was thinking of building a hood for it buts its a penta shaped aquarium and that gets a little complex. Glove you have a good point about raising the lights becasue a hood is exactly what would do the trick. Also the dial for the heater is all the way done at 72 or 73 degrees.
Its a Won Brothers Titanium Pro-Heat 300 watt heater with remote temperature controller (not the digital one) 300 watt, and its in the sump on the bottom near the return pump. (http://www.aquariumsuppliesplus.com/ah_titanium_heaters.html)
Exactly my experience: get two thermometers, one the cheap strip-stickon sort that's as lowtech and immoveable as possible: stick it on your sump, the other above. Don't trust your heater thermostat.
Mine drove my tank past 85 and I had coralline bleaching in the hour or so I wasn't near the tank. It's taken 2 months to repair the bleaching. Not to mention what it would have done to corals had any been in the tank. I'm getting a better heater when I can find one.
Mine drove my tank past 85 and I had coralline bleaching in the hour or so I wasn't near the tank. It's taken 2 months to repair the bleaching. Not to mention what it would have done to corals had any been in the tank. I'm getting a better heater when I can find one.
Glove
New member
My thoughts were if the heater is too large the addtional amount of actual element that is 'heated' can hold that heat longer after it turns off...
I would bet money its a combo- the heater is to big and the lights are adding to the temp. Try removing the aqaurium cover. Those lights should have a lens to protect from splashes.
I would bet money its a combo- the heater is to big and the lights are adding to the temp. Try removing the aqaurium cover. Those lights should have a lens to protect from splashes.
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