RC photo class here!

DebsSisterFlo

New member
Ok, well I'm hoping anyways! I thought we could post our questions about specific techniques or settings with hopes of learning more about our cameras and photography in general.

I'll start.

Can someone please explain to me what white balance is and how to adjust it, also what does it do, can you post comparison pics?

I have a Canon Rebel XT... 350D
lenses: 28-90mm... 70-300mm... 100mm macro.
 
Hi all-
This Reefkeeping Magazine article discusses white balance and some techniques for getting truer colors in your photos.
Light color, or color temperature as it can be referred to, is measured in degrees Kelvin and to give you a couple reference points-- a standard lightbulb like those you use in a reading lamp are about 3200 degrees Kelvin- a very warm [yellow] light. Daylight is much bluer and runs from around 5600 to upwards of 8000 degrees Kelvin. On the low end of the scale is very warm light and on the high end is very cool/blue light.
8000 degrees Kelvin is about as high a color temp as a camera would expect to see in normal circumstances, but some aquarium lights are far bluer than that even and that's where the trouble starts :p
Anyways- what a white balance does is give a reference point to the camera. Show the camera a white object and the camera measures the color temp of the light hitting the white object and then it's [theoretically] able to determine the correct overall color balance accurately.
In normal circumstances the camera can figure out the correct color balance automatically but with extreme lighting it may be beyond the range of what the white balance system is programmed to expect-- this is when you need to do a manual wb. Unless...
Unless you have a camera that has a RAW format. Shooting in RAW format (as opposed to jpeg where you cannot change the color temp-- you can adjust colors on a jpeg in photoshop but it's not nearly as good) allows you to set the wb point [color temp] on the computer- that is a great feature to have when shooting in tricky lighting situations.
Directions on how to set the wb for specific models are going to be in your cameras manual, but there are some tips in that article, as well as in this thread.
 
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Cameras come in two basic types.

SLR and VIEWFINDER

In general an SLR (single lens reflex) allows you to compose your image while looking through it's lens. Most SLR cameras allow you to change lenses.

In general viewfinder cameras have a permanent lens (it may zoom in and out on more expensive models). You compose the picture by looking through a "viewfinder" not the cameras lens. The viewfinder is close, but lacks many features of the SLR.

When you change lenses on an SLR you change ALL of the glass between the subject and the film (or digital sensor). With some viewfinder cameras, you can "add" on lenses to the front of the existing lens. This is very similar to putting a magnifying glass or other binocular in front of your own eyes.

The "fixed" lens is between the film (or digital sensor) and the new added lens. This reduces the overall image quality for several reasons, but depending on the setup, decent results are very possible.

Bean

T
 
What is the best way to photograph fish? I have pretty much gotten down corals and other relatively slow or still things, but fish such as the tang, angels, etc. always give me a hard time. The coloring comes out best without a flash, but the shutter speed is so slow without flash that the fish are just a blur. What is the best way to get around this? My camera is not the best. A Kodak EasyShare DX7440 4.0 megapixel. Any suggestions would be great.
 
A few weeks ago I posed 2 threads on Exposure, Compensation and the Histogram and Understanding Depth of Field as of now I see the both got about 50 views each, I find that horribly disappointing.

This being a "Photography" forum I thought there would be more interest in understanding the basics of photography. Seems not, or it's just over too many heads. It is Photo 101 stuff. If you don't understand Exposure and Compensation of Exposure, explaining the use of White Balance seems pointless.

Sorry for my rant, I know not every one is a professional. It just kind of upsets me that no one seems to care.
:sad2: :sad1:

Exposure, Compensation and the Histogram
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=812374

Understanding Depth of Field
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=812371
 
Hi Rich-
I feel your disappointment... but I've learned that this forum is different things to different people and not everyone comes here just to learn. Many come here to share pictures or look at the photos of others. Others come here to learn about accessories that will [hopefully] help them create better photos. Many many people visit this forum seeking info that will help them make the right choice when they're ready to buy a new camera.
Some do come just to learn- I'm always happy to see that, but I'd have to say the bulk of the traffic is not people that want to learn the technical side of photography. Such is life :p
Anyways- I have been meaning to do some re-organizing of the sticky thread at the top of the forum- I'll use your excellent lessons as impetus to get me going on that. I'll add your lessons to the sticky thread so that anyone who does come here to learn will find them with ease.
Thanks-
Greg
 
gregr,
Thank you for the kind understanding... It makes me feel better knowing the posts I put together will be of some use. I would be more then happy to help, if you'd have any other suggestions or common questions to dig up stuff on.

I am a photographer by trade, (portrait, wedding, family, youth sports) and from Digital to Darkroom, I'd be happy to help. I worked as a room HOST for AOL in there "You've Got Pictures" chat area for over 3 years, till they disbanded the hosts.

Thanks!
 
Ok here is what I have.

The camera I use the most is a Canon SD550
I have a canon rebel EOS (not digital and will get the model posted in a bit)from 6 years ago (bought it for a basic photo class in school) Out of the lenses I can get what would be a good macro lens to start with for tank pics?

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=155
Link to the canon Macro lens.

If I get back into Photography again I will be looking to get a canon digital slr since I have some tele. Lens already.

Any info would be great.

Thanks

Mike
 
Here's a question the panel.

Do I need UV filters on my digital SLR lenses?
I already bought them so I guess it's a moot point now but I also need to know how to install them on the lens.

I have a Nikon D50.

Thanks,
Chris
 
It makes me feel better knowing the posts I put together will be of some use.
I think they will absolutely be of some use. I just finished adding them to the sticky thread at the top of the forum, where hopefully they will be easy to find for those who wish to broaden their horizons :)
If in the future you'd like to add more informational threads like the two excellent ones you already did, they will be added to the sticky thread asap!
 
Hi Mike-
Of the Canon macro lenses the best one for aquarium photography is the 100mm. The 50 is about half that price and superbly sharp (like all the macro lenses), but it will not get you true macro performance (1:1 magnification). Third party macro lenses from Tamron and Sigma are also worth looking at, but the Canon 100mm macro lens is the best of the bunch. The 60mm EF-S macro lens is good but it costs nearly as much as the 100 and won't work with the higher end cameras (only the DRebels and 20D).

Chris-
The uv filter is mainly a protective cover for the front element of your lenses- in some cases it can help clear up a hazy sky but that is pretty minimal. Most people use them to protect their lenses.
They just screw onto the threads on the end of your lenses. Each lens has a specific thread size so the filter has to match that.
 
As mentioned UV or UV Haze, is mostly a protection filter.
My personal opinion on filters is that they have a use, but you must understand there use, otherwise your just adding another layer of glass to an already Multi-Coated lenses; this can lead to "Ghosting" or other odd aberrations. I much prefer lens hoods or shades.

The filter that may be of use in the aquarium, to me would be a Circular Polarizer. They can be used to punch up the color and eliminate glass glare. Like a good skimmer, don't buy a cheap one. A good Circular Polarizer could run you $75 to $150, dep on size. The best trick is to buy large (say 77mm filter) and use Down-Sizing Rings to make it fit your smaller lenses. (Saves you money!) :cool:

Circular vs Linear Polarizers
There are two types of polarizing filters available ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Â linear or circular. Linear polarizers are more effective and less expensive than circular ones. But circular polarizers are needed with just about any camera that has a through-the-lens metering system, or autofocus.
 
Thanks Greg.

Rich - I read your tutorials and they helped me understand histogram, depth of field and exposure quite a bit. What I really need to do now is go home and play with those settings before I forget everything I learned.

Gregory- Your tutorial on processing RAW files was very helpful.

I am going to bookmark these sites.

Thanks,

Chris
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7160487#post7160487 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gallivanmk
What is the best way to photograph fish? I have pretty much gotten down corals and other relatively slow or still things, but fish such as the tang, angels, etc. always give me a hard time. The coloring comes out best without a flash, but the shutter speed is so slow without flash that the fish are just a blur. What is the best way to get around this? My camera is not the best. A Kodak EasyShare DX7440 4.0 megapixel. Any suggestions would be great.

take a ton of pictures, hope one turns out right. I recently did a fake magazine for a class assignment, one of the articles was on clownfish. I bet I took 100 pictures to come out with 5 decent ones.

saltmaroonclownfish.jpg
 
That's a great magazine spread! Very well done.

I have a uv lense on each of my lenses to protect the glass. I've seen a smashed lens and I'd rather replace the filter than deal with the actual glass being smashed... it's a small price to pay for that extra layer of protection.

I fully intend on reading those now stickied threads. I did take photo 101 about ten years ago, but I just can't pull it all back out of my memory. That and being digital I have to open menu after menu on the camera to adjust something... that's when I miss the ol' Pentax, all the dials were right there for adjustment.

Glad to see that you're finding this thread useful! I hope more use it, if it helps anyone it was worth starting! :)
 
Personally I think the flash is the way to go for moving fish photos. Yes, it's a compromise, but in this case it's a good compromise. If done correctly the exposure can still be fairly even and the colors correct, but with point and shoots it's doubly difficult because the flash is so close to the lens and not as powerful as a dedicated flash. Some point and shoots have a hot shoe so you can use a seperate flash unit- that is a big step in the right direction.
Without using a flash you're forced into a pretty narrow depth of field and your focus has to be right on. Plus it's likely you will have to use a high iso so the picture will be grainy, or at least grainier than with a flash.
This is a sample of a moving fish- Scooter was zipping across the front of the tank because he knew I was trying to get a shot of him :p
marine50_std.jpg
I used a flash in the hot shoe for this one; manual exposure mode with an fstop of f16 (can't do that without a flash!), shutter speed of 1/100 and iso 100.
 
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