repairing a pump cord

[jasonh]

I'd cut the cord real short, and just make a new cord for it. You can get some stuff called "Plasti-dip" or similar that basically makes a rubberized coating on the wire. I'd solder the wires together, coat them in the rubber coating, use heat shrink on the individual wires, then coat the wires together with the rubberized stuff, then heatshrink the wires together, and then maybe do the rubber again.

I couldn't tell you if "plasti-dip" is reef safe or not though.

 

[lavith]

Any repair to the wire which is only about 12" away from pump is kindda scary to me. Of course you can do the repair and seal all you can but the possibility being electrocuted if submerged is much higher. How about fix it cord and think of runnign it outside the sump.

 

[medic29]

If the repair is done properly there is no need to be "scarred". This type of stuff is done all the time. It is far enough away from the pump that there is plenty of wire to work with to complete the repair. Now if we were talking the damage was within an inch or 2 of the pump that might be a different story.

Again, if this is done properly, it will be okay. Since your father has experience working as an electrician, I'm sure he has the knowledge and experience to repair this properly.

 

[vmiller]

I am the "seller who hasn't been giving much response" since I was not around a computer yesterday. This is the first I am seeing of this and I PROMISE I did not send the pump out in that condition. Delta_zeta, I will contact you offline about this.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10585972#post10585972 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vmiller
I am the "seller who hasn't been giving much response" since I was not around a computer yesterday. This is the first I am seeing of this and I PROMISE I did not send the pump out in that condition. Delta_zeta, I will contact you offline about this.

Mag 18 and Mag 12 are identical on the outside, could the 12 been sent in error?

 

[AZDesertRat]

Heat shrink tubing is not water tight. You need to use butt splice connectors on each wire then wrap them individually with rubber splicing tape, coat them all with ScotchKote then wrap it all in more rubber tape. Not electrical tape but rubber tape with a peel off backing that stretches to seal. Thats how you splice submersible well pumps.

 

[medic29]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

 

[vmiller]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10588503#post10588503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Mag 18 and Mag 12 are identical on the outside, could the 12 been sent in error?

I double checked the label on the pump before packing it and sending it out. Neither pump had any damage to the power cord. If they did, I would have advertised them that way.

 

[rsw686]

When you cut the wires to splice don't cut them all at the same point or you will have a buldge when you heat shrink it. What I do is vary the lengths of the hot, neutral, and ground wires approx 1/2" so when you solder or butt slice it the seams are next to each other. Looks nicer and when you heat shrink you don't need a large diameter piece to get over the splices. This will give you a tighter heat shrink fit.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Again heat shrink is not water tight, it was never intended to be and is not advertised to be. It will fail guaranteed even if you stagger the splices which is very good advice by the way.

 

[jmkarcz]

I agree, heat shrink is NOT water tight... I had a simular experience, my large puffer chewed through the cable in 2 spots... I lopped it off clean at the spot it chewed thru closest to the pump eliminating the need to fix both spots... then, I purchased a matchingga. of wire from the hardware store that could be submerged. and a new plug for the cord and a section of FARM milking hose from my local diy/farm supply store. This hose is VERY flexible, and clear, and non - crush (also has a very thick wall). I also bought a tube of aquarium silicone, I conducted my repair, then slid the hose over the repaired spot, (atleast 5" past on both sides of the repair) then I squeezed silcone into the hose from both sides. I only did one side at a time, so the silicone could dry, and I filled deepest working my way out... gave it several days to dry, and it worked/works fine...

Otherwise, mag18's could be run external... proly beter for not transferring all that heat to the tank water anyway... I'd save the money and just replace the seal and inspect the impeller.

depending on how it was pack, this could have just been caused bu the pump housing impacting the power cord... I work at a tool company and we see this a couple times a year.

J