Review of Kordon Ich Attack

nick0604

New member
I have an 80 gallon tank with a powder blue tang, copperband butterfly, 2 clownfish, and a target mandarin. I recently bought the powder blue tang and added him to the tank after 45 mins acclimation. The next day or 2 I noticed a few small spots on his fins and soon to be on the copperband. I am treating with kordon ich attack and have heard mixed reviews on this product but thought I would give it a chance with a non-severe case of ich. I started a 9w turbo twist uv sterilizer 3 days ago and have been treating with ich attack for 24 hours(2 doses). Both fish are eating like maniacs and so far the powder blue tang is flashing less. I will keep you updated for the next few days.
 

snorvich

Team RC member
Team RC
Report back in sixty days. Ich comes and goes visibly but when it disappears, that does not mean it is gone.
 

MrTuskfish

Team RC
While you're waiting; I'd get a HT ready, I suspect you'll need it. It can then be used as a QT to prevent more parasites entering your DT by new fish.
 

nick0604

New member
Fish are still eating great. Did a freshwater dip for 1 min with the copperband butterfly and he seems much better. Made a water change today and started the protein skimmer back up, hence I am done with the ich attack. I purchased a cleaner shrimp and the powder blue seems to be using him as a car wash every 20 mins. Still have the uv sterlilzer running. Hopefully eveything will be alright
 

MrTuskfish

Team RC
Not Negativity; just experienced people trying to help. I have never heard of a single case of Ich-Attack working long term. UV and cleaner fish/shrimp don't do the job. Stomach studies of cleaners show this. If you read the ich stickies and understand the ich life-cycle, its easy toi see why UV simply cannot work. There is simply no such thing as a reef-safe cure. Even the mfg of this stuff does not claim it cures ich: "Helps Prevent And Treat Single-Celled External Fish Diseases Caused By....". (From Ich Attack's site) With ich, "helps" isn't good enough. a 100% kill is required. What you are experiencing is very typical of the ich life-cycle and the countless failed attempts to cure it using "reef-safe" products. People aren't being negative, just trying to inform you of something that is well known. This stuff simply doesn't work.
I've been in this hobby for 35+ years and don't know of anyone who knows SW parasites better than a couple of people who have replied on this thread. Hearing something you don't want to hear isn't "negativity'; at least, not by my definition. I call those responses " facts, based on years of experience".
 
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nick0604

New member
could it just be these are stress marks on the fish and I am mistaking for ich? I read the life cycle of ich and it says the spots come and go. These spots have not gotten any worse and have stayed in the same spot. They have actually gotten better since they have been in my tank. By the way tank stats are:
80g
15g wet/dry trickle filter with live rock
oversized protein skimmer (not sure what kind but it sure does work)
9w uv turbo twist
60lbs of live rock

ammonia 0ppm
nitrite 0ppm
nitrate 25ppm
ph 8.2
salinity 1.024-5ish
alkinity 250

Thanks for your replies. If it is ich, what are other methods for treating with no quarantine tank and a FOWLR setup?
 

b0bab0ey

Moved On
Negativity everywhere lol

From Kordon's website: "Kordon Ich-Attack contains 5% active ingredients consisting of five natural organic herbals, based on their containing patented naphthoquinones."

If this is Ich, herbs may (or may not) ease the symptoms and even make the fish look/feel better. But unless you're planning on using this stuff forever, eventually the symptoms will return. You have to use a method that will actually eradicate the parasites forever, not just temporarily treat the symptoms.
 

MrTuskfish

Team RC
could it just be these are stress marks on the fish and I am mistaking for ich? I read the life cycle of ich and it says the spots come and go. These spots have not gotten any worse and have stayed in the same spot. They have actually gotten better since they have been in my tank. By the way tank stats are:
80g
15g wet/dry trickle filter with live rock
oversized protein skimmer (not sure what kind but it sure does work)
9w uv turbo twist
60lbs of live rock

ammonia 0ppm
nitrite 0ppm
nitrate 25ppm
ph 8.2
salinity 1.024-5ish
alkinity 250

Thanks for your replies. If it is ich, what are other methods for treating with no quarantine tank and a FOWLR setup?
A pic would really help with ID. Ich is often compared to salt grains. You can also Google "marine ich" images and compare. The Goggle images are mostly very infested fish, just compare the spots. I don't really know of any way to treat ich in the DT. Hypo may work, its very demanding; but if you won't get a QT, that's your only option. I know of very few folks who have stayed in this great hobby long-term without a QT. The next fish you introduce without a QT could easily carry ich; or much more dangerous and deadly parasites.
 

snorvich

Team RC member
Team RC
I know of very few folks who have stayed in this great hobby long-term without a QT. The next fish you introduce without a QT could easily carry ich; or much more dangerous and deadly parasites.

Ah, there is the rub. Brook or velvet simply wipe out the tank and are much more difficult to treat.
 

nick0604

New member
Ok. So I just got a 28g quarantine/hospital tank off craigslist for real cheap. Gonna set it up tonight. This should be big enough for temporarily housing the type of fish I have correct?
 

EllieSuz

Premium Member
Yes, absolutely large enough for your use. I have a small tank and small fish, so I use a 12 gallon tank. I want to applaud you for taking advice and implementing it so quickly. You'll never be sorry you quarantine.
 

nick0604

New member
And the conclusion of Ich Attack, I will never use it again. It may kill ich and other things in the water but does nothing to cure the fish, so it is a never ending cycle. Moral of the story: Get a quarantine/hospital tank and treat with hypo or copper.
 

Paul B

Premium Member
Not Negativity; just experienced people trying to help. I have never heard of a single case of Ich-Attack working long term. UV and cleaner fish/shrimp don't do the job. Stomach studies of cleaners show this. If you read the ich stickies and understand the ich life-cycle, its easy toi see why UV simply cannot work. There is simply no such thing as a reef-safe cure. Even the mfg of this stuff does not claim it cures ich:

This is true.

It won't be.

It might be

Negativity everywhere lol

This is also true,
Have fun argueing about this. And have a great day.
 

Silver Sur4our

New member
I might be wrong but in order for the qt tank to be successful all fish would be needed to be removed and treated. Then the dt would need to be host (fish) free for several months so the ich p dies off. Then add the fish back slowly.

It would not help to just remove the sick fish.
 

b0bab0ey

Moved On
I might be wrong but in order for the qt tank to be successful all fish would be needed to be removed and treated. Then the dt would need to be host (fish) free for several months so the ich p dies off. Then add the fish back slowly.

It would not help to just remove the sick fish.

You are absolutely correct. The DT needs to be kept host (fish) free for 9 weeks MINIMUM. Longer is even better IMHO.
 
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