Sad coral

TinyDot

New member
Hi knowledgeable reefers

Can anyone help me solve my coral problem it’s a new drag which was really lovely and healthy a week ago but noticed last night it looks like this! Has one of my fish gone rogue?
I have my lights down low

Many thanks in advanced
 

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How’s it looking now? If it has significantly increased my guess is also RTN. If not, my guess would be STN.

What fish do you have? Also what are your parameters? I get slow recession when my parameters start to get out of wack

My other thought was possibly Acropora eating flatworms but not seeing anything in your pic that would truly indicate that. Do you have other SPS in the tank?
 
Thank you for replying

Coral looks worse, checked all parameters again and they are all fine nitrate slightly elevated but not alarming, and my other Sps and lps corals are fine so far! Except my weeping willow that is not opening! So something is off! I dipped the damaged coral today after doing a 30% water change and no beasties come off just more of its skin!

I think it’s almost dead to be honest however I’ll keep it where it is (also I have not seen any one nibble it) so my fish are not to blame I have 2 small clowns and a Very very tiny boxfish all of which are doing very well, maybe my tank is just not mature enough for corals other than zoas and GSP
 
As of this morning it is all completely white it’s lost it’s entire skin I am assuming it’s completely dead now and removed it. If it does have a disease I don’t want to risk any other coral as the others are all looking good except my weeping willow that hasn’t opened up for a few days now! It shed about 10 days ago and started to reopen but then closed.
 
Hi knowledgeable reefers

Can anyone help me solve my coral problem it’s a new drag which was really lovely and healthy a week ago but noticed last night it looks like this! Has one of my fish gone rogue?
I have my lights down low

Many thanks in advanced

How old was the frag when you took this picture?
 
How old was the frag when you took this picture?
It was less than 2 weeks old I got it with a pink histrix and that one is looking just fine ( the damaged one is a Green Seriatopora Caliendrum it is now totally stripped of its outer skin this all happened in 24 hours.
 
RTN possibly (rapid tissue necrosis). Lot's of suspected causes of RTN but it's not my forte'.

Yep. Sure looks like RTN to me. Next time, up your flow. If you can't with the powerbeads you have I strongly suggest you get new, stronger ones (like the VorTech's) before you add any more SPS. Those beggars need a LOT of flow, and VERY high lighting........
As for your Weeping Willow, it's normal for it to close up from time to time and even shed a little. What are your nitrates? What are your phosphate levels?? What are you using for lighting???
 
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It was less than 2 weeks old I got it with a pink histrix and that one is looking just fine ( the damaged one is a Green Seriatopora Caliendrum it is now totally stripped of its outer skin this all happened in 24 hours.

Sometimes this just happens. SPS are finicky and why they are harder to keep than most corals. When they RTN it is because they are not happy and it is their last resort of survival. It happens naturally in the wild but unfortunately it is a death sentence in our closed systems.

It might not be your system and just an unhappy coral. Can you provide a little background of your system?

How old is the system?
Do you have experience with SPS in this system?
Do you test and if so what are your parameters?
What are you using for flow and lighting?

I know it's a lot of questions but to help then I would need to know these.
 
So I have a Nextwave 85 system with radion 30 lights a jeboa SWL 5 power head
Set up mid December 2022 with live sand and rock and cycled for 6 weeks with Dr Tims added colony I week prior to adding livestock

2 small clown fish
I tiny box fish (I know I will have to upgrade to accommodate him)


Salinity 0.024
PH. 7.8
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrate 20
Nitrite. 1
Phosphate. 0.25
Calcium 30
Magnesium. 1350

Temp 25 degrees / 77 Fahrenheit

Corals
3x zoas
1 GSP
1 pink hystrix
1 weeping willow toadstool which is not opening after it shed.

Thank you
 
So I have a Nextwave 85 system with radion 30 lights a jeboa SWL 5 power head
Set up mid December 2022 with live sand and rock and cycled for 6 weeks with Dr Tims added colony I week prior to adding livestock

2 small clown fish
I tiny box fish (I know I will have to upgrade to accommodate him)


Salinity 0.024
PH. 7.8
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrate 20
Nitrite. 1
Phosphate. 0.25
Calcium 30
Magnesium. 1350

Temp 25 degrees / 77 Fahrenheit

Corals
3x zoas
1 GSP
1 pink hystrix
1 weeping willow toadstool which is not opening after it shed.

Thank you

Just by looking at this real quick, it seems your system might be a little too young to support SPS.

How are you testing these parameters?
What is your alkalinity, as that is one of the if not the most important parameters to check and keep stable with SPS?
Your Nitrite and Ammonia levels seems to me that your still going through a cycle as they should be 0.
Also, I assume calcium is a typo at 30. If it is in the 300s, then that will need to be brought up.
Also, I would raise your Salinty to 1.026 or 35ppt. This will help raise your other levels to where they should be as well.

Are you dosing anything or just performing water changes? I would recommend to wait another month or so before trying SPS again. Make sure your parameters are stable and the cycle is over.
 
Alk is 8.3 and yes sorry typo on calcium
I do a 20% water change every 5 days with my LFS pre made water
I test with API and salifert but this brand is not easy to read I find!
TMC refractometer

Yes I think you are right I jumped into corals a little too quickly
My ammonia and nitrite levels were at 0 until I added box fish 12 days ago and with increased feeding to give the little fish the best chance I am excessively feeding (he is eating very well though) I got snails at the weekend to help with food waste on the sand bed,

It’s my first tank so huge amount to learn despite researching for months prior.

I am so so grateful for your help and advice
Thank you
 
Alk is 8.3 and yes sorry typo on calcium
I do a 20% water change every 5 days with my LFS pre made water
I test with API and salifert but this brand is not easy to read I find!
TMC refractometer

Yes I think you are right I jumped into corals a little too quickly
My ammonia and nitrite levels were at 0 until I added box fish 12 days ago and with increased feeding to give the little fish the best chance I am excessively feeding (he is eating very well though) I got snails at the weekend to help with food waste on the sand bed,

It’s my first tank so huge amount to learn despite researching for months prior.

I am so so grateful for your help and advice
Thank you

Have you calibrated your refractometer? If not, then I would start there first to make sure your salinity is okay. It could be fine and your refractometer is just off. After calibration, make sure your source water and system water is around 1.026 or 35ppt. That is a good starting point. At those levels ,it will help get your parameters where they need to be.

API is not a bad kit. They just don't have the precision range that is acceptable(in my oponion). Salifert are good kits and I have serveral of them that I use. I use Hanna for Alk, NO3, PO4, Iodine, pH, and Iron. I use Salifert for Calcium and Magnesium. I also have Salifert for Alkalinity, Iodine, Nitrate, and Oxygen if I ever need to test them against other tests.

I could be wrong, though. Your system may now be suitable for SPS, and the coral was simply unhappy. I personally would wait a couple more months before adding any more SPS. I would test daily for Alk and weekly for Cal, Mag, NO3, and PO4 to establish a trend for dosing, etc.

In my opinion, the best way to learn is through experience. I learn something new every day.

Don't stress about losing a coral. Things happen, so just make sure you have stability and patience. That is the thing with this hobby.

I have lost a lot of corals and have gone through ups and downs. Apart from stability, one of the most important pieces of advice I can give you is to not be concerned about algae. With the trend of dry rock going around these days, algae seems to be more of a nuisance than it ever was with the live rock we had back in the day. There are so many products out there to kill algae, and with Instagram, YouTube, etc most new hobbyists feel their tanks need to be sterile to have a "nice" tank. Don't feel the need to turn to chemicals, etc when you have algae, cyano, etc. A little bit of elbow grease and water changes go a long way.

I know from experience. Against my better judgment, I was convinced to use Vibrant, Fluconazole, etc in 2019. This was the end result.

20210122_001551.jpg


That was one of many learning lessons, and I keep these corals on the wall next to my tank as a reminder.

We are all in this hobby together and if you ever have any questions, etc just reach out, and I will help in any way I can.
 
I know from experience. Against my better judgment, I was convinced to use Vibrant, Fluconazole, etc in 2019. This was the end result.
I had a similar experience with Vibrant.

Fluconazole was a different experience for me though. It wiped out the Bryopsis with no ill effects and (knock on wood) it hasn't come back.
 
Thank you so much for all your advice and encouragement this hobby is absolutely going to be a long game of chess ! I know I will make mistakes and learn the hard way but thankfully with lots of knowledgeable peoples advice I am hoping to avoid a few. All your poor corals from using chemicals I am sorry.

I have removed my dead coral now as it was just horrible to see it but you are right I will just let the tank mature with what I have so far and g et more of a stability.
I do calibrate my salinity refractometer every time I use it and I noticed today it has dropped again slightly so I think it’s time to buy my own water thing and make my own saline (my other half will not be too impressed)

Anyway thank you again and happy reefing .
 
Thank you so much for all your advice and encouragement this hobby is absolutely going to be a long game of chess ! I know I will make mistakes and learn the hard way but thankfully with lots of knowledgeable peoples advice I am hoping to avoid a few. All your poor corals from using chemicals I am sorry.

I have removed my dead coral now as it was just horrible to see it but you are right I will just let the tank mature with what I have so far and g et more of a stability.
I do calibrate my salinity refractometer every time I use it and I noticed today it has dropped again slightly so I think it’s time to buy my own water thing and make my own saline (my other half will not be too impressed)

Anyway thank you again and happy reefing .
Hello!
What brand of salt do you use?
What is the ORP level in your aquarium?
How many liters in the aquarium?
How much water does the return pump pump in one hour?
What is the diameter of the pipes from the return pump?
 
I had a similar experience with Vibrant.

Fluconazole was a different experience for me though. It wiped out the Bryopsis with no ill effects and (knock on wood) it hasn't come back.

I used Fluconazole a couple times before Vibrant and it worked well with no issues. I used Vibrant and a couple months later Fluconazole. During this time I had the crash. I can't say 100% it was Vibrant but after findings of it being an algaecide then who knows?
 
I used Fluconazole a couple times before Vibrant and it worked well with no issues. I used Vibrant and a couple months later Fluconazole. During this time I had the crash. I can't say 100% it was Vibrant but after findings of it being an algaecide then who knows?
Vibrant cannot be used for a long time, it inhibits biofiltration.

Fluconazole also inhibits biofiltration and is best used as follows:
Fluconazole - against Bryopsis: 1 tablet (150mg) per 500 liters of aquarium per day, dosed for 7 days, Skimmer OFF for 2 hours after dosing.

It is better not to use these drugs at all.
It is necessary to constantly maintain biofiltration: Nitrogen Cycle and Denitrification. That is, regularly feed the fish so that they constantly release the right amount of Ammonium, which will turn into Nitrate (this should happen continuously).
And maintain a constant level of Phosphate so that Nitrate is consumed by biology and does not accumulate in water. Balance of consumption Nitrate and Phosphate: 1 / 0.14. But it is better to keep this level: Nitrate up to 10, Phosphate up to 0.1
And do not overfeed the fish, so that food residues do not accumulate that rot and increase the level of organic matter in the water.
 
Vibrant cannot be used for a long time, it inhibits biofiltration.

Fluconazole also inhibits biofiltration and is best used as follows:
Fluconazole - against Bryopsis: 1 tablet (150mg) per 500 liters of aquarium per day, dosed for 7 days, Skimmer OFF for 2 hours after dosing.

It is better not to use these drugs at all.
It is necessary to constantly maintain biofiltration: Nitrogen Cycle and Denitrification. That is, regularly feed the fish so that they constantly release the right amount of Ammonium, which will turn into Nitrate (this should happen continuously).
And maintain a constant level of Phosphate so that Nitrate is consumed by biology and does not accumulate in water. Balance of consumption Nitrate and Phosphate: 1 / 0.14. But it is better to keep this level: Nitrate up to 10, Phosphate up to 0.1
And do not overfeed the fish, so that food residues do not accumulate that rot and increase the level of organic matter in the water.

Yeah I agree. I will never use chemicals again unless all hope is lost.
 
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