shark feeding

camell

New member
how many times you must supply vitamins Mazuri sharks? as the amount calculated? average bamboo tablet for a 4 months right?
I think buy to prepare ... Mazuri gel should be fed every day sharks or 2/3 times a week right? only gel or cool too?
I would like to find a guide specific to shark feeding ....
thank you very much :thumbsup:
 
Small sharks don't need the Mazuri vitamins often. One or two times a week is enough. Use half of a tablet for a shark under 10 inches. Over that size you can give them a full tablet one or two times a week.
Mazuri gel is good to use everyday. It is always best to feed a mix of gel and a variety of frozen foods like clam, krill, squid or silver sides. Food with a lot of iodine and calcium are best for bamboo sharks.
As the sharks grow up, they won't need to eat as often. Young sharks need to eat a few times a day. As they get to 10-12 inches, they can switch to one time a day. As they reach the 3-4 foot length, once every two or three days is fine. Just remember little sharks have little stomachs, so they need small amounts more often. Larger sharks will eat larger meals, but not as often.
 
Will benthic sharks over eat? I'm most likely going to try to find a coral cat to keep it on the smaller side. I was wondering last night if you can just have them essentially 'hunt' for their food by having a populatoin of shrimp or other fish that they eat. My assumption is in the wild they arent over eating and control their own diets.

Ive had a hard time finding good resources on the coral cat shark, feedings, etc. Do you have any good reccomendations on places to find information on them?
 
You can order on the mazuri website.


That's a pretty intresting question. If I had to take a guess I would say the wild sharks have to compete for a limited supply of food and expand energy to catch the food. There might not be enough food which the shark can catch so there is no real opportunity to the shark to over eat. Sharks expend alot of energy catching it's prey, digesting the food and using the proteins for what ever the shark needs them for. It is not easy for a shark in the wild to catch its food. If the shark had enough food to survive why should it waste energy and risk not getting the food to replenish it. That's why predators usually go after the weak or young prey. It is a easy target.

If you do the live feeding thing keep us updated.
 
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If you've ever encountered an adult bamboo shark in a tank that is far too small, you will see how obese a shark can really get.
The same goes for Nurse sharks in almost every public aquarium that houses them. Nurse sharks are very sedentary in captivty. When put in a large display with Ram ventilators in it also, and bony fish, the Nurses are able to over-eat . On top of the over abundance of food in such displays, and on a more frequent basis, the Nurses expend an exponentially smaller amount of energy feeding than if they actually had to hunt, as they naturally do.
The same goes with Bamboos and hobbiest tanks. When I adopted several "adult" sized bamboos from a smaller tank, they had also been overfed, we're not used to searching or swimming to find food either. When placed in my pond/lagoon, the sharks I had had from juvenile stages were out-competing the new sharks when I fed. The older sharks knew the routine, that I broadcast fed and they had to sort of fight for the best pieces, even though I'd make sure everyone was getting their share in the end. The newer sharks had no idea what was happening! They would smell/sense the food in the water, but expected it to plop right down in front of them! Needless to say, they learned how to "compete" with the rest and it also led to a loss of a large amount of fat in the abdomen. Increased exercise eventually led to a more muscular look across the back, posterior to the shoulders.

As for shrimp and feeder fish available in the tank...
I find it to be a great idea however there are several pitfalls. One major pitfall is the necessary intense/thorough Quarantining of both marine feeder shrimp and whichever euryhaline feeder fish you choose. I use killifish that are available from a trusted bait shop who's holding tanks are extremely well kept, and properly filtered. During the summers I purchase them as soon as he gets his order each week while they are in full freshwater. I then acclimate to saltwater and prophylactically treat and watch the hill is for 6-9 months some times!
When I receive marine shrimp, I also prefer to receive them in FW, so that the acclimation to Salt may eradicate some of the ecto parasites as would a FW dip does yet vice versa. Feeder anything can be loaded with bacteria, viral, protozoan etc. pathogens.
If you choose to do it, make sure they are not severely ill. FW mollies are great in that they readily breed and provide small food items to other fishes as well.
 
Edit** Wow. That post got longer than I thought. Just some of my experience and methods.
Some of which is anecdotal. I could try to find the data behind some of the claims I made if you'd wish?
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna read those links from a comp later. I just spend way too much time any money buying toys... Time to order my tank!
 

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