Skimmers

EPRuss

New member
So everyone I spoke to recommended a large skimmer, one rated about double my tank size. Everyone also seemed to recommend Reef Octopus.

So I upgraded my skimmer, to a Reef Octopus Diablo XS 160, which is rated for tanks between 90 - 160 gallons (my tank is 90).

It's been installed for about a week and has yet to produce any skim-mate. My old skimmer (aqua C EV-90/120) began producing skim-mate right away after installed, and it skimmed fairly consistently.

This skimmer gums up the neck, but nothing in the collection cup, it's completely clean. I have the sump water level water level as recommended (9-10") and I've played with the water level in the skimmer from right at the "max water level" line to well above it.

Does this thing just need more time to break in? Or is my bio load to low for this skimmer? I only have a couple of coral and 7 smallish fish, the largest being a 2.5-3" anthia.

Or is this skimmer just to large for my system?

Would I be better off running my old skimmer until the bio load increases or just ride it out?
 
Like I said I've been playing with the it. When you adjust the gate valve the water in the skimmer body goes up or down. The higher the water, the higher the foam raises. I have the water level about an inch above the max water line and I get foam to the top but it doesn't push over into the cup. Think I should raise the water level higher?

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Forget water lines and things for now. You are saying you can get foam higher then leave it higher. You don't want to wet skim anyways.
 
Ya that's why I've been hesitant to leave it to high. I don't want to wake up in the morning and find it overflowing.
But I'll give it a shot and see how it works out.
 
let the skimmer go through a 3 day break in period and then start worrying about water and foam levels normally you want the foam to be just under the inside neck of the skimmer cup. With the bubbles popping just over that and then once the bubbles pop that is how the poo flings out into the main cup of the skimmer.
 
"I only have a couple of coral and 7 smallish fish, the largest being a 2.5-3" anthia."


You might of answer your own question here, I don't think you have enough of a bio load to make your new skimmer perform like it should.

I leave it alone and maybe keep adjusting until it kicks in, unless you're really concern about skimming then use your old one until your bio load increases. Good luck.
 
Some also take a week or two to break in. I'm sure you are fine. If it's in the sump then it doesn't matter if it overflows.
 
It's barely inside the sump. I think it could still make quite a mess.
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Thanks for all the feedback. I'm still new at this and don't have experience with different skimmers so your insight is appreciated.
I'll continue to adjust and give it more time. I'm not to concerned about skimming, water quality is good at this time, but I'll keep an eye on it.
 
There is not a break in period on a skimmer.
It took me a while to understand them and what they do, my only objective in posting this is that this information helps some of you keep your tanks cleaner by understanding how a skimmer works and what it really does.

The bottom line is that there is ALLOT more to skimmers than most of us know

What does a protein skimmer do?
Protein skimmers actively remove waste products from fish, plants, and invertebrates (along with any dead organisms or uneaten food) before it has a chance to break down and compromise water quality. In addition to their primary function of removing organic materials from aquarium water, protein skimmers have many secondary benefits. Through the removal of dissolved waste materials, protein skimmers reduce nitrate buildup, help prevent aggressive algae growth, and improve water clarity to enhance light penetration for a brighter, cleaner, and clearer aquarium. With less waste to process, your existing filter will also be able to function more efficiently, reducing the amount of time you spend on regular aquarium maintenance.

How does a protein skimmer work?
A protein skimmer works by creating tiny bubbles in a reaction chamber. Organic waste materials adhere to these bubbles through a chemical process called adsorption. The bubbles propel the waste materials up to the surface of the reaction chamber, where dissolved protein and other contaminants are physically removed from the water column and contained in the collection cup.

By generating millions of air bubbles, protein skimmers also replenish oxygen levels in the entire aquarium. Elevated oxygen levels and proper gas exchange help maintain a stable pH by counteracting the pH-lowering effects of carbon dioxide that can occur at night.

Protein skimmers are extremely efficient at removing organic materials from aquarium water. However, their secondary benefits further increase their value by improving the overall health and beauty of your aquarium, making them a worthwhile investment for any marine hobbyist. Always strive to install the biggest skimmer possible that fits within your space and budget. This will increase the skimmer's effectiveness and make maintenance easier.

Here is an article that to me explains skimming and skimmers in real world terms, gives examples of different skimmers and how they work. This is an in-depth article and might need to be read several time (it helped me to read it three or four times)
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-06/fm/feature/

Again, I am only trying to help people understand skimmers and dispel misinformation.
 
ok while I agree with most of your post the proteins and other organic materials are not absorbed by the bubbles at all. the materials adhere to the bubbles and then the bubbles carry them to the top of your reaction chamber so to speak and once the bubble pops that is when the materials are expelled out of the water column. another thing since when is there no break in period for a skimmer every time I clean my skimmer cup our skimmer doesn't start producing skimmate for at least one or two days. so that tells me that I have a two day break in period.
 
I agree with, and the articles also say that your statment is correct,

"proteins and other organic materials are not absorbed by the bubbles at all. the materials adhere to the bubbles and then the bubbles carry them to the top of your reaction chamber so to speak and once the bubble pops that is when the materials are expelled out of the water column."

the break-in period you refer to is not the time the skimmer is not working, it always working, it the time that the aquarium water does not have enough disolved waste for the skimer to remove.
 
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