Its not something you really need to worry about. The only real reason to keep Tubastrea in a shaded place is to discourage algae from growing over top of it. If you can do that then it doesnt matter where its placed as far as light is concerned.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10394369#post10394369 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hormigaquatica Its not something you really need to worry about. The only real reason to keep Tubastrea in a shaded place is to discourage algae from growing over top of it. If you can do that then it doesnt matter where its placed as far as light is concerned.
So a Tubastrea directly under 400W MH will be as healthy (as long as fed) as one in the shade? I'm not worried about the algae growth, I am worried about the skin of the coral burning, if it can.
If I don't have to shade the coral than I have many more options for placement. If I do have to shade it, I can do it no problem but it will make it more difficult to feed.
All the polyps are out tonight on my new Tubastrea and I have to say I'm happy. The coral is a little different than what I've seen, the base is red, polyps are yellow. I'm an acro guy but I've always wanted one of these and pulled the trigger this afternoon!
You _do_ have to worry about algae growth, though. IME, tubastrea compete really poorly with algae and, because you feed them so much, they are a great source of localized nutrients.
But, I think they will be fine under your lights otherwise.
They are better place in an overhang but this does give feeding problems but the light will not "bleach" them as such. Mine in on the substrate under direct 250W MH's at a depth of around 28" or so and I use a feeding cup which is essentially a glorified 2l bottle trick. The cup is constructed of a tube of acrylic with a removable lid with a hole large enough to fit a 5ml salifert syringe. I simply squirt the food into the hole which gives the coral time to feed without fish/inverts disturbing it. Also you can just fill the syringe with tank water to agitate any food on the bed and it will "swarm" around the coral again when the polpys re-open (which they will time and time again, they are greedy!). When completed (10-15 mins) just remove the cup and let the hermits and clean up crew polish off the rest if the fish dont get there first.......good luck m8.
Do these feed on cyclopeeze ?
Every second day I add cyclopeeze and phyto--turn the main pump off for 45 min to an hour to feed the clams and corals.
I used to target mysis but I haven't been lately and the sun coral seems fine.
Mine will respond to cyclopeeze but doesnt seem to feed on it - I use it sometimes to get the polyps out if im feeding it during the day. Normally I use mysis shrimp which does get eaten.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10402210#post10402210 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The_Taz_Devil Mine will respond to cyclopeeze but doesnt seem to feed on it - I use it sometimes to get the polyps out if im feeding it during the day. Normally I use mysis shrimp which does get eaten.
that's what I am observing also---the mysis really extends the polyps. I have tried feeding blood worms also---you can tell its eating these because they get stuck half way in until fully consumed.
Yes they hold the food in their mouths and consume slowly (or quickly depending on how hungry they are) - thats why I cover them with a feeding cup. You can target feed individual polpys with a pair of plastic tweezers and grasp a shrimp then place on the mouth, they will almost tug it out of your hand.....
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