MarkD40
New member
The following is my response to a private message sent to me. Please feel free to evaluate my response and offer criticism.
Hi Bolton!
The reason I have very low nitrates IMO are the following:
1. I have a very low bioload. I have only 4 fish. 3 - 4 inch Tangs and a 2.5 inch six line wrasse, and many mushroom corals.
2. I have a 110 gallon display tank with 80-100 pounds of live rock. My display has only about 1/2 inch of sand on the bottom with none underneath the rock.
I have a 75 gallon sump with an 12 inch X 48 inch undergravel filter over a plenum made of PVC pipe under 4-5 inches of sand. The remaining 6 inches by 48 inches of the sump has sand down to the glass with no undergravel or plenum. I also have about 80 pounds of LR in the sump suspended on egg crate so the rock does not sit on the sand.
You should understand that when I set up my tank 7 years ago the conventional wisdom at that time was exactly how my tank is set up. Undergravel filter over a plenum was the way to go. Now all the "experts" at RC will tell you that UG filters lead to higher nitrates. This makes absolutely no sense! X amount of ammonia will be converted to a corresponding amount of nitrate. No more, no less! How quickly that occurs depends on the amount of bacteria present to make the conversion. UG filters and wet/dry filters are VERY efficient at rapidly removing ammonia from the system and converting it to less toxic nitrate. Wet/dry is by "definition" an oxygen rich environment and so it will not remove nitrate. So by itself wet/dry filtration is an incomplete form of biologic filtration.
If you also have a deep sand bed and plenty of live rock you will have the anaerobes needed for the anaerobic conversion of nitrate to nitrogen gas. If your system has the ability to keep up with nitrate production you will have 0 nitrate. If your system does not have enough capacity your nitrate will gradually increase and so water changes are the only way to remove nitrate.
I believe that a deep sand bed over an undergravel filter over a plenum is the best of both worlds. Aerobic bacteria in the upper layers of sand convert ammonia-nitrite-nitrate as the water is pulled through by the UG filter. This process removes oxygen fom the water and the deeper the water goes the more anoxic it becomes. As the water is pulled into the deeper layers of sand facultative anerobes and then strict anaerobes convert the nitrate into nitrogen gas. The water then passes up the tube and is forcefully ejected into the sump re-oxygenating the water.
I have used an oxygen test kit and tested my water. The water in the sump was saturated with oxygen when corrected for temperature and sg.. Water collected coming from below UG filter had no measurable oxygen! That being the case, why isn't that more efficient than a DSB that functions by diffusion only? By pulling water through the sand you are exposing the bacteria to many more molecules of "food" over a given time, which I believe leads to an increased number of bacteria = more efficient and more rapid complete breakdown of nitrogenous waste.
I have asked repeatedly what is wrong with my logic on RC because I was thinking about removing my UG filter after repeatedly reading about how it leads to higher nitrates (I don't get that logic as I have stated above) No one was able to give me a satisfactory response that made any real sense, so I have decided to leave my UG in place.
Perhaps with a marked increase in biolode in my system I would start having higher nitrates, but I believe that the system would adapt, and adapt more quickly to an increased load than a plain DSB. I am not implying that a DSB does not work, only saying that a DSB over an UG filter and plenum is superior.
3. I have protein skimmer that is geared to a tank (water volume) twice my present set-up running 24/7. I also have a 1 gallon nu-clear canister filter with a 50 micron pleated filter in line as the last filtration before the water is returned to the display.
Suggestions:
I think you need to increase the amount of live rock. I don't know how much LR 100 pounds will buy but it is probably not very much.
I think you have too many fish.
I am going to post this on RC under New to the Hobby so that you can get other comments form people more knowledgeable than me. Good Luck!
1 wrote on 03/09/2006 05:12 PM:
hi mark just read through some of your threeds im very impressed you know your stuff anyway my 100 gln reef is 2yrs old i would say largish stocking level 10 fish mostly small [1 large tang 5"] lots of soft corals sump with mud 5gln water changes a week [now increasing to 10 glns] about Ã"šÃ‚£100 worth fugi rock tank kept very clean sand vaced every week my nitrates are off the clock i never know becouse i was useing a hagen test kit whats your fish levels how do you keep 0 nitrates and what advice can you other me thanks mick hope you dont mind me writeing to you im new to rs and not sure of protocals
Hi Bolton!
The reason I have very low nitrates IMO are the following:
1. I have a very low bioload. I have only 4 fish. 3 - 4 inch Tangs and a 2.5 inch six line wrasse, and many mushroom corals.
2. I have a 110 gallon display tank with 80-100 pounds of live rock. My display has only about 1/2 inch of sand on the bottom with none underneath the rock.
I have a 75 gallon sump with an 12 inch X 48 inch undergravel filter over a plenum made of PVC pipe under 4-5 inches of sand. The remaining 6 inches by 48 inches of the sump has sand down to the glass with no undergravel or plenum. I also have about 80 pounds of LR in the sump suspended on egg crate so the rock does not sit on the sand.
You should understand that when I set up my tank 7 years ago the conventional wisdom at that time was exactly how my tank is set up. Undergravel filter over a plenum was the way to go. Now all the "experts" at RC will tell you that UG filters lead to higher nitrates. This makes absolutely no sense! X amount of ammonia will be converted to a corresponding amount of nitrate. No more, no less! How quickly that occurs depends on the amount of bacteria present to make the conversion. UG filters and wet/dry filters are VERY efficient at rapidly removing ammonia from the system and converting it to less toxic nitrate. Wet/dry is by "definition" an oxygen rich environment and so it will not remove nitrate. So by itself wet/dry filtration is an incomplete form of biologic filtration.
If you also have a deep sand bed and plenty of live rock you will have the anaerobes needed for the anaerobic conversion of nitrate to nitrogen gas. If your system has the ability to keep up with nitrate production you will have 0 nitrate. If your system does not have enough capacity your nitrate will gradually increase and so water changes are the only way to remove nitrate.
I believe that a deep sand bed over an undergravel filter over a plenum is the best of both worlds. Aerobic bacteria in the upper layers of sand convert ammonia-nitrite-nitrate as the water is pulled through by the UG filter. This process removes oxygen fom the water and the deeper the water goes the more anoxic it becomes. As the water is pulled into the deeper layers of sand facultative anerobes and then strict anaerobes convert the nitrate into nitrogen gas. The water then passes up the tube and is forcefully ejected into the sump re-oxygenating the water.
I have used an oxygen test kit and tested my water. The water in the sump was saturated with oxygen when corrected for temperature and sg.. Water collected coming from below UG filter had no measurable oxygen! That being the case, why isn't that more efficient than a DSB that functions by diffusion only? By pulling water through the sand you are exposing the bacteria to many more molecules of "food" over a given time, which I believe leads to an increased number of bacteria = more efficient and more rapid complete breakdown of nitrogenous waste.
I have asked repeatedly what is wrong with my logic on RC because I was thinking about removing my UG filter after repeatedly reading about how it leads to higher nitrates (I don't get that logic as I have stated above) No one was able to give me a satisfactory response that made any real sense, so I have decided to leave my UG in place.
Perhaps with a marked increase in biolode in my system I would start having higher nitrates, but I believe that the system would adapt, and adapt more quickly to an increased load than a plain DSB. I am not implying that a DSB does not work, only saying that a DSB over an UG filter and plenum is superior.
3. I have protein skimmer that is geared to a tank (water volume) twice my present set-up running 24/7. I also have a 1 gallon nu-clear canister filter with a 50 micron pleated filter in line as the last filtration before the water is returned to the display.
Suggestions:
I think you need to increase the amount of live rock. I don't know how much LR 100 pounds will buy but it is probably not very much.
I think you have too many fish.
I am going to post this on RC under New to the Hobby so that you can get other comments form people more knowledgeable than me. Good Luck!