Upgrading a retrofit kit with LDD Drivers

[borillion_star]

I am upgrading my LED Array retrofit kit that I have been sitting around unused and wanted to string them onto to 2x LDD-700H and 2x LDD-1000H drivers. I was going to use a Meanwell SE-350-48 but I am not sure how to wire them up without burning any out.

6 Philips Luxeon ES Neutral White 3v 1000mA
2 Philips Luxeon ES Lime 3v 1000
2 Philips Luxeon ES Cyan 3v 1000
1 Philips Luxeon ES Warm White 2.5v(?) 1000 (suspect voltage)

1 Hyper Violet V3.0 415nm - 425nm 3v 700
2 Philips Luxeon ES True Cool Blue 3v 700
10 Philips Luxeon ES ROYAL BLUE 3v 700

Any Ideas appreciated. I would prefer to split them up into controllable channels if possible.

 

[oreo57]

I am upgrading my LED Array retrofit kit that I have been sitting around unused and wanted to string them onto to 2x LDD-700H and 2x LDD-1000H drivers. I was going to use a Meanwell SE-350-48 but I am not sure how to wire them up without burning any out.

6 Philips Luxeon ES Neutral White 3v 1000mA
2 Philips Luxeon ES Lime 3v 1000
2 Philips Luxeon ES Cyan 3v 1000
1 Philips Luxeon ES Warm White 2.5v(?) 1000 (suspect voltage)

1 Hyper Violet V3.0 415nm - 425nm 3v 700
2 Philips Luxeon ES True Cool Blue 3v 700
10 Philips Luxeon ES ROYAL BLUE 3v 700

Any Ideas appreciated. I would prefer to split them up into controllable channels if possible.

Well the first thing to consider is you only get about 45V "out" due to the err "loss" from ps to diodes.

your overall voltage needs are about 71V so if you use your above breakdown only 2 LDD's are needed, though I doubt if you want it to be that way spectrum wise but that is a personal choice.

Next you need to determine what "effects" you want to achieve..
You know like a flourescence channel, color pop channel (both flour and normal pigments.) , growth channel, daylight channel ect..

And of course spacing of colors..

From what I gathered on observing peoples preferences and trying to be a sort of jack of all trades array...

2 Philips Luxeon ES Cyan 3v 700
2 Hyper Violet V3.0 415nm - 425nm 3v 700
2 Philips Luxeon ES True Cool Blue 3v 700
2 Philips Luxeon ES ROYAL BLUE 3v 700

ATI "like" blue plus channel w/ out the green/amber spike
.............................................................................
8 Philips Luxeon ES ROYAL BLUE 3v 700

"Pop" channel
.............................................................................

4 Philips Luxeon ES Neutral White 3v 1000mA
2 Philips Luxeon ES Lime 3v 1000
2 Philips Luxeon ES Warm White 2.5v(?) 1000 (suspect voltage)


approx 4000K channel
...................................................................................
One of an infinite combination well not infinite but you get the idea

Only 3 drivers needed..
Since I have this anal need to make numbers equal..8 per channel..


Now "1" of anything doesn't help on a full tank spread much sooo keep that in mind..You need to consider style i.e puck type arrangements or linear and tank dimensions..but this is sort of a start..


your driver wattage will depend on ho cool you can keep the diodes and how much output you need..balancing act really.

Now you mentioned "upgrading" so are you adding or replacing?
note: I will be adjusting these periodically.

 

[borillion_star]

So learned a lot about those Meanwells that saved me a bunch of headache, primarily that you want to get the voltage as close to the drop that is going to be expected on the string but its ok to go over because the auto adjust. I was struggling to find chains that would all have equal voltages but now not worried a whole lot as long as I have that 3 volt overhead required for the driver.

Really the upgrade is ditching the Meanwell enl60-49Ps out for the LDD's, and figuring out what to use in the LED arrangement before installing it into the tank. For some reason its become increasingly more difficult to find the tubes for this Biocube so its forcing my hand.

 

[oreo57]

So learned a lot about those Meanwells that saved me a bunch of headache, primarily that you want to get the voltage as close to the drop that is going to be expected on the string but its ok to go over because the auto adjust. I was struggling to find chains that would all have equal voltages but now not worried a whole lot as long as I have that 3 volt overhead required for the driver.

Really the upgrade is ditching the Meanwell enl60-49Ps out for the LDD's, and figuring out what to use in the LED arrangement before installing it into the tank. For some reason its become increasingly more difficult to find the tubes for this Biocube so its forcing my hand.

Well not quite.. at 45V you want the V(f) of the diodes added up at the current of choice to not exceed that or you won't get full amperage out.

V(f) of any diode vary by current choice..and vice versa..
At a certain voltage it will only draw X amps..

you're right though exceeding 45V on a string won't "hurt" anything until you drop the string voltage lower than the diodes turn on voltage...

Say you put 20 3V (at set current say 1000) diodes on 45V out..
Roughly they each only "see " 2.25V which might not be enough to light or alternately only draw 100mA of current.. Changing 60w w/ enough voltage (60v) out to 4.5W

W/ LDDs one doesn't need to get close.. jst exceed minimum which I believe is 3V-ish..
so a string can be anything from 3-45v total voltage.. no problems.

 

[borillion_star]

Right so for that example. LDD-700H You put say 48V/1A on that and it will auto adjust the voltage out put on it to accommodate up to 45V/700mA worth of LEDs. 3V used for the driver itself. It will auto adjust the voltage output on the string to not burn them. I can have up to 15 x 3V/700 mA (say 14 for head room) rated LEDs on the output side, or or 9x 5V/700mA leds.

 

[oreo57]

It will auto adjust the voltage output on the string to not burn them. I can have up to 15 x 3V/700 mA (say 14 for head room) rated LEDs on the output side, or or 9x 5V/700mA leds.

Yes it's basically a voltage regulator.. Will adj voltage up till it "sees" say 700mA draw..

Being a switching type regulator it won't overheat if the voltage differential is large, unlike linear drivers (like Steves) that need close input output voltages
emeber it is a dynamic system, as diodes heat V9f) at set current drops.
Also manuf differences ect..
W/out real time measurements best to always downgrade the diode #.

 

[borillion_star]

One other question is it generally safe to test these with a multimeter set on the diode mode? Or do I risk frying the LED?

 

[oreo57]

One other question is it generally safe to test these with a multimeter set on the diode mode? Or do I risk frying the LED?

you can test individual diodes w/ a digital VOM. Diode mode or low Ohms each work.
Voltage is low as well as current. Just match polarity.
For longer strings or sections I use a wired 350mA LDD and a cheap 12v (doesn't much matter) power supply. Though at 350mA some strings are pretty bright...
I "believe" there is an issue w/ some Fluke meters but only a vague recollection of it . Has to do w/ the voltage. Not sure it's a real issue though ..Just covering my bases.