Vertex Illumina Club

Sorry for the late reply, can you answer the following questions please because it is not clear from the pictures.
Are the green lights on the splitter box on?
Are the light in the mean well power supply on?
If they work we can go next steps.
Thank you.
Nic


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Hi Nicologne. I will gladly answer.

The green lights on the splitter box is on.

The mean well power supplies are also powered on.

I have a Dropbox folder with photos of the light. If you PM your email address I will gladly share them.

Thank you for your help.

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Hi,
I have exactly the same problem after a power breakdown. Did you already find a solution ?

Naif IMG_4382.jpg


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naifman said:
Hi,
I have exactly the same problem after a power breakdown. Did you already find a solution ?

NaifView attachment 378788


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Click to expand...
Naif. Nicologne explained that if you hold the left and right outer buttons down and plug the large plug (molex) into the splitter box you can jump through the the LEDs. I did not get a moment to test this yet. You need two persons to do this since one needs to hold the buttons down and another to plug the cable into the splitter block. The splitter block needs to be connected to power already with all LEDs shinning.

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Hi louwjvr,

thank you very much for your explanation.
I will try this next week because at the moment Vertex in Germany is on company holidays. They will be back next week. I want to have a contact person in case of unexpected events (Illumina won't work any more etc)

Naif
 
I completely understand. This is some of the most expensive kit we can buy in our country. If this light cannot be reset or something I ... well... I am also very nervous...

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Guys. After following Nicologne's advice I am delighted to report the Illumina is it old self again!!!

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I am going to change my lighting & my Vertex will be up for sale in October.
72" -- 360 hybrid.
I have 8 pads model 260 & 4 pads model 360.
Everything works, fellow before me changed the pads & had it reset by the factory reps.
Activated 1/2015, I have had it in use since 3/26/16.
Very reasonable, give me a PM if interested.
 
Illumine users, could use your help...

just unboxed a new 260 I've had for sometime. Fired it up, programmed it on the display. Everything worked smoothly and as expected. I'm happy with functionality via the display and would prefer to steer clear of the desktop software. I have four multicolor modules yet to install. Two questions:

1. After installing the modules, will its colors appear on the display in order to program them (out of the box, just the two blues and white appear which coincide with the stock pads;
2. After installing the multicolor pads, will any firmware updates or other software interfacing be required or will I be good to go to program via the display?

Many thanks to any and all who can offer insight.
 
1. yes...
2. it depends... on the firmwareversion the fixture has. It might be necessary to update but check with your retailer or Vertex.

Some Info:

First of all, IMPORTANT!!!!
What ever you do, do it without the light is connected to a power source. Unplug the connection between the light and the power supplies before doing anything else!!!!!

Please check if you have the proper installation Tool. It's kind of a plastic press device.

If a module is not working properly after installation, first check the position by replacing it a little bit more up and/or down so the piercing contacts are hitting the power cable inside

If you have more than one power supply, be sure to connect first all power supplies to the splitter box and after that you connect the light with the splitter box.

If you try to install them without the proper plastic installation tool, you might bend the board which can result in damages...

Hope that was from help for you.

Take care
Nico


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Thanks, Nico, you're a godsend!

I'm not sure I follow one item so I'd like to clarify, in reference to the "if I have more than one power supply (which I do as I have a 1200)" do you mean to:

1. first connect the round (with one small section flat) end of the cords from the Meanwel to the splitter boxl---the opposite end of the Meanwell being the prongs that go into the wall socket
2. then connect the Molex to the splitter box (this jives in my mind with your "connect the light with the splitter box" instruction). If so, I should disconnect the Molex from the splitter box before beginning? Not sure why as the cords would have been unplugged from the wall and nothing would have power (this was your first instruction) but you know 100 times more about this than I do
3. plug the prongs into the wall socket

Also, if I can retry piercing the power cable when installing the module, I assume the paste does not set up very fast?

Sorry if I am being dense...I very much appreciate your help and patience!

P.S. Re-boxed the fixture then wondered what would happen during a power failure so I set it up again. Date and time and custom light programming I had done were not saved so I thought maybe a new watch battery would be in order (what could it hurt, right). After that bit of microsurgery (and prayers to the light fixture gods that I wouldn't strip any screws), I need to locate a new battery and see if that fixes things (if an alternate solution was offered earlier in this thread I missed it). All I can say is if this is how things are going to be hardware-wise, I pray I won't need to deal with the desktop software.

Thanks, again!
 
Sorry if I wasn't clear which probably has to do with the fact my native language is German...:)

So just to clarify some background facts:
While you have two power circuits based in the two power supplies, some led pads are on a different circuit as well as the display/controller
Having said this, it is mandatory that all power circuits in the light are powered up at the same time which can be easily handled while the power supplies connected to the wall plug as well as Connected to the splitter box.
After that, when You connect the fixture cable with the splitter box, you can be sure, all circuits get the power at the same time.

As a side note, if a problem is in the circuit which is the controller on, you might have a problem because the pads are not properly Registratur by the controller during start up. All pads are connecting during the power up to the controller/display, if there is a power problem, it wouldn't work.

Hope this makes some things clear.
Sorry if it sounds complicated, I don't know how to explain it better. Let me
Know if something sounds weird, I might just use the wrong word...:)

For the paste. It should just be a cooling paste which will not work like a glue. If d the paste is in the bottom or the fixture and we are talking about a few centimeters, during the installation in one shot, it should not be a problem. If you Wanne get sure, just by some cooling paste from a computer store, the one they use to install a cpu on a main board and you should be good to go.

Hope I answered all you questions. If not? Just let me know....:)

Greetings
Nic




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Hello all Vertex users. After much work with Adam this summer to try and repair a light, we came to the conclusion that it might be time to retire it and move on.
It is a 4' SR 260 and was used for about 4 years . The following components are available to strip off the light, if they might be of use to someone:
2 drivers (power supply transformers, large blocks, line voltage on one side, low voltage the other side)
1 multipad which was installed for at least three years. This includes all the colours plus UV includes installation tool.
2 sets of legs for mounting on Aquarium. Extremely corroded but still functional
Various screws, all other light modules from light except first pad and control end (these failed this summer and could not resolve issue)
If someone needs or wants anything, let me know. I'm more interested in helping out a vertex owner trying to try and keep their light running than anything. Reasonable offers, plus cover shipping.
PM me.
 
UV Burning Acrylic Shield?

UV Burning Acrylic Shield?

Hi All,

I noticed the other day that the acrylic shield on my Illumina 260s are burnt directly under what I think is the UV LED. I'm running one multicolour module on each 1' fixture.

Has anyone come across this before?

Thanks,
 
dubmaneh said:
Hi All,

I noticed the other day that the acrylic shield on my Illumina 260s are burnt directly under what I think is the UV LED. I'm running one multicolour module on each 1' fixture.

Has anyone come across this before?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I had exactly the same problem under the uv leds. The acrylic eventually cracked and moisture got in and damaged the boards. Change the acrylic. They are expensive so I got some uv resistant acrylic cut to size for a fraction of the price. I bet over time they will end up the same but it's much cheaper
 
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