Vertex Illumina Club

[Animadverto]

Well, I've had my multicolor module installed and running for about a week now. I was at first skeptical about the worth of such a module at $195 a piece, but I must say that I am quite pleasantly satisfied with the visual appeal of the added colors. While it is too soon to make any statements about the effects of this added module on the pigmentation of corals in the system, but it is undeniable that the multicolor module has added a richness and warmness with a violet/purple hue compared to the cool blue appearance of the tank before.

I took out the red module prior to installing the multicolor one for fear that the red leds might be too overly dominant, and that was a good call. I still have 2 more slots for possible future module upgrades, which leads me to this question. For those of you who have installed additional module(s), do you find it necessary to program the fan "on" instead of "auto" to keep the operating temperature of the light fixture down? I currently have mine programmed on "auto", but the fan has never come on.

 

[notclear]

I have added a total of 8 aux modules and the fans only come on occassionally. Fixture is still warm on touch.

 

[freezetyle]

After finally selling my AI sol fixture. i got my 12" 260 vertex fixture, with a color-aux module over my Bonsai inspired 50 gallon. I must say this is a HUGE improvement over the sol fixture. It provides a much more elegant look with the tank mount arms compared to it as well. as soon as i can get up my photos i will be sure to post them here.

Happy to be a part of the club

 

[mariognutti]

Hi guys,
since I have installed the multicolors modules, a problem with the moon graph is appeared!
when I connect my pc (v-link) with the device, it automatically downloads the graph... everything is ok about the day graph, but the moon one is completely wrong!! percentages and colours are completely different from the program uploaded!
the device performs well and also in the fast motion it works properly following my program... I don't understand why the software downloads and
shows a wrong and completely different moon graph...
any suggestions?
thanks a lot!

 

[jlanger]

Well, I've had my multicolor module installed and running for about a week now. I was at first skeptical about the worth of such a module at $195 a piece, but I must say that I am quite pleasantly satisfied with the visual appeal of the added colors. While it is too soon to make any statements about the effects of this added module on the pigmentation of corals in the system, but it is undeniable that the multicolor module has added a richness and warmness with a violet/purple hue compared to the cool blue appearance of the tank before.

I have been "patiently" waiting for a BRS Rewards Point Bonus Sale to order two of the Multicolor Modules for my 3ft SR 260.
As I wait for the Multicolor Modules, can you post what beginning settings you found worked the best and how frequently you're ramping them up?

For those of you who have installed additional module(s), do you find it necessary to program the fan "on" instead of "auto" to keep the operating temperature of the light fixture down? I currently have mine programmed on "auto", but the fan has never come on.

My fixture is mounted inside a canopy and I have never heard the fans kick on. It does feel warm to the touch though. (Set on Auto.)


As I side note, here's my current graph.
The fixture has been running since mid-December and I've been at these levels for the past six weeks.
I would like to know what percentages other users have reached for their final settings over their specific tank size.

Recent full tank shot.

Thanks.

 

[Animadverto]

I have been "patiently" waiting for a BRS Rewards Point Bonus Sale to order two of the Multicolor Modules for my 3ft SR 260.
As I wait for the Multicolor Modules, can you post what beginning settings you found worked the best and how frequently you're ramping them up?



My fixture is mounted inside a canopy and I have never heard the fans kick on. It does feel warm to the touch though. (Set on Auto.)


As I side note, here's my current graph.
The fixture has been running since mid-December and I've been at these levels for the past six weeks.
I would like to know what percentages other users have reached for their final settings over their specific tank size.

Recent full tank shot.

Thanks.

Hi Jason,

I've been running my SR260 600mm since July of last year over my 93 gallon cube tank (30"x30"x24"). I had a Maxspect before the Illumina. So far, I have my royal blue topping out at 80%, blue at 68%, white at only 15% (personal preference) while watching my corals very carefully. With one multicolor module added, I have everything on that module started at 20% with the exception of the red leds which I will keep at 8% because it's such a dominant color. I bump all multicolor module leds up 2 to 3% every three days and will observe my corals carefully. My watermelon chalice on the bottom of the tank is showing signs of bleaching on the exposed portion not shaded by either rocks or other corals, but that happened even before the addition of the multicolor module. I just moved it in the shade...problem solved. I dose zeobac and zeostart (not using full zeo system) to keep No3 and Po4 really low, and I probably will not run any of the leds at 100% as I'm pretty sure the corals will bleach out with the combination of really intense lighting and low nutrients.

As for the fans, you will not be able to hear them even if they are on unless you put your ears directly on top of them. They are that quiet. I noticed on your graph that you run a fairly long photo period. You might want to shorten that as you ramp up the light.

David

 

[jlanger]

Hi Jason,
I noticed on your graph that you run a fairly long photo period. You might want to shorten that as you ramp up the light.
David

Thanks for the comments, David.
I'll move my start up time back as I ramp the light up.
Think this could be why two of my acropora sp. corals are not adjusting to well (bleaching), while the montipora sp. are doing amazingly well?

 

[Animadverto]

Thanks for the comments, David.
I'll move my start up time back as I ramp the light up.
Think this could be why two of my acropora sp. corals are not adjusting to well (bleaching), while the montipora sp. are doing amazingly well?

Jason,

Typically, acros require more intense lighting than monticaps unless they are deep water type of acros. If the acro pieces are on the frag rack on the back wall, they actually may not be getting enough light intensity to effectuate desired coral pigmentation because of the angle of the light. Purple, blue, and pink types of corals required a few hours of more intense lighting to bring the colors out. (Are those digitata on the rocks in the left background?) Have you checked for possible bugs on the acro pieces? It's unlikely that they would get bleached running your light at maximum intensity of 60% with the blues and royal blues for 2 hours according to your graph.

I would gradually change the programming graph to more of a bell shaped curve to allow for 3 or 4 hours of more intense lighting as well as the natural ramping up and down to mimic sunrise and sunset.

David

 

[gdpolzin]

I have 48x24x24. Planning on getting the sr360. I have not found advice on getting a 3 footer or a 4 footer. Anyone have a recommendation?

 

[yort265]

my tank has a 48" x 20.5" footprint. it's 25" tall. I have the 3' SR360 and it's more than enough light. the SR260 would probably be enough. anything over 30% output is incredibly bright, and too much. this pic is 20% white, 30% blue & 30% royal blue. it's a phone pic so the white balance is way off... it doesn't look that blue in person, but it does have a nice blue tint to it. HTH

 

[gdpolzin]

Thanks yort265. As you know every foot costs. I hope to be part of this club soon. Still convincing the better half. Hence 3 foot is great news!!!

 

[mariognutti]

my graph...
please comment it.
thanks!

 

[Animadverto]

my graph...
please comment it.
thanks!

Color temperature for the most part is a matter of personal choice, but I do notice that you're running your blue, royal blue, uv, and violet leds at an average of over 90% for 8 hours. That is a lot of light for that long. What are you planning to keep in there?

Have you noticed any algae problems with the red leds peaking at 85% at the beginning and end of your light cycle? By the way, you can set more points on the graph by clicking on "add points" in the expert programming mode for a smooth transition of light intensity.

 

[mariognutti]

hi Animadverto,
thanks for your comment.
I'd like to keep in sps and lps. for the moment I've only one sarco... only for few hours...
no algae problems. please keep in mind that I have only 3 red leds in total (one for each multicolor module).
the reason of 8 hours of strong light is this very interesting article:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012...aign=clickthru
if you have time I'd like to have your opinion about it...
best regards

 

[mariognutti]

sorry, the link is:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/201...ider&utm_medium=slider&utm_campaign=clickthru

 

[Animadverto]

hi Animadverto,
thanks for your comment.
I'd like to keep in sps and lps. for the moment I've only one sarco... only for few hours...
no algae problems. please keep in mind that I have only 3 red leds in total (one for each multicolor module).
the reason of 8 hours of strong light is this very interesting article:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012...aign=clickthru
if you have time I'd like to have your opinion about it...
best regards

Hi Mario,

That was an interesting article and a long one to boot. I read it twice and must admit that I sped through the section on the benefits of using leds and the perception of different light wavelenghts by the human eyes as I did not think it pertains to the effects of light intensity and duration on coral pigmentation.

Here is a point that caught my attention. "This means that natural illumination under water is not sufficient for photosynthesis until the sun rises approximately 15 degrees over the horizon. In approximately 30 minutes after this the illumination quickly increases to about half of the daily maximum value. Therefore actual photoperiod is about 9 hours. These are the factors an aquarist should consider if he is wishing to replicate natural light cycles." I would like to point out that our light fixture is not capable of replicating the angle of light penetration into our aquarium. So, when we set the fixture intensity at 90% or more for 8 or 9 hours a day directly over the aquarium at optimum penetration angle plus 1 or 2 hours of ramping up and ramping down at sunrise and sunset, we would have exceeded 400umol that is recommended in this article as followed. "Also note that although 400μmol·photons/m2/s radiation power is optimal for coloration of corals, such high illumination requires pristine water conditions in the tank. Radiation power 4 times below this level is already sufficient to start production of chromoproteins in corals. We recommend starting slowly, with initial lighting levels close to the lower boundary of about 100μmol·photons/m2/s. Within several months you can gradually increase the illumination, while closely monitoring water parameters and the corals' reaction. If the system is stable and all parameters are in the optimal range, optical power can be gradually increased up to 400μmol·photons/m2/s."

Personally, I'd rather err on the side of caution because corals will react more negatively to too much light than less than optimum light. I found 2 articles published by Advanced Aquarist as well that suggested a disruption of zooxanthellae reproductive cycles (bleaching) when corals are exposed to a prolonged period of intense lighting.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/5/aafeature
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1
I hope that helps.

David

 

[mariognutti]

animadverto,
thanks for your answer... very interesting!
I think I'll modify a little bit my graph...
do you know which is the illumina 360 molm2sec output?

 

[Animadverto]

Mario,

The SR360 fixtures are 40% brighter than the SR260, but I have not come across any PAR readings posted by anyone yet. The molm2sec (or PAR) output depends on where you take the reading in the tank. You will get a higher reading near the top of the tank and a lower reading near the bottom.

 

[mariognutti]

after many nights spent studing...
this is my last graph version:

 

[stangchris]

well i have decided to join the ranks of LED with a vertex illumina 260 48inch. my tank is a sps dominant 60x24x24. my tank has been up a year with a mh fixture, so hopefully my sps dont freak out too much. currently running white at 50%, blue 60%, 65%.

tank with MH

with vertex