Water Top-Off

[djmod45]

So I have been doing a little reading on water top-off systems because within a 24Hr period since I have lighting over my tank and refugium I have about 1 gallon of evaporation a day. Mostly it's a royal pain in the you know what to do it everyday so I had a question for you all.

Buy a top-off system or DIY?
And, if DIY do you guys have suggested methods?

 

[artful-dodger]

I'm in the same place--research. I've decided to purchase rather than go DIY. (Partly for lack of time but mostly for fears of something going wrong and flooding the house.)

Here's one good thread with links to the commercial topoff systems available on the market. Here's another one.

If you haven't seen it, here's a good thread for a DIY topoff project.

 

[wetWolger]

i sorta went half way. I purchased a pre built DIY style switch from www.autotopoff.com and used an aqualifter and a 10gal tank. So far I am very very pleased with the results.

 

[gsxrguru2]

What I did was buy one of those float switches (Kent seemed to be the best) and ran the tubing from my other RODI filter through the crawl space and up through a heater vent by my tank. Haven't had to add a drop of water since and it definitely beats putting in a couple gallons per day. This seemed to me to be the easiest way to solve the problem over using all those electrical solenoids and stuff.

 

[Khai]

I just picked up a Tunze Osmolator...I'll let you guys know how it goes...

 

[artful-dodger]

I got scared off from the Osmolators just from reading the questions and feedback in the Tunze forum. Every post seemed to be a complaint...

The Streams seem to have a great reputation, but I have to wonder if the Osmolator is ready for primetime. I'm really anxious to hear how you like it once you have it installed.

 

[Sk8r]

I got mine from autotopoff.com, prebuilt, figuring I'd spend about as much buying parts. It's worked well.

 

[aurorahokie]

I've been running my osmolator for about 5 months and it rocks! I had an issue after I added my nilsen reactor, but a check valve solved the back-siphon issue. All is currently well and I feel like this was probably my best add-on purchase to date. And yes, I've let it run dry. I just shake it after I refill the resevoir and it runs fine.

Chip

 

[tkeracer619]

I hooked my ro/di strait up to a float. No electricity, no switches, no pumps, just a float like your toilet. For top off I dont understand why people make it difficult. Water chages are a total different animal but for top off go with a kent marine ro float valve. It is best if you have a system with a storage tank to increase pressure, plus you can have a faucet for you.

 

[wetWolger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7330739#post7330739 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tkeracer619
I hooked my ro/di strait up to a float. No electricity, no switches, no pumps, just a float like your toilet. For top off I dont understand why people make it difficult. Water chages are a total different animal but for top off go with a kent marine ro float valve. It is best if you have a system with a storage tank to increase pressure, plus you can have a faucet for you.

you are aware that ro units are not very effective when run short amount of times right?? Most people who run an ro unit direct as there float use a ratchet style. So as the bottom switch trigers it fills till a top switch triggers so it runs longer but not as offten.

IMO an ideal 100% hands off solution would be have a 10gal tank with a float switch like I just described and then a switch that is simple on off (with a safty switch) that pumps from the tank to the sump. That way you don't have any fluctuations and your ro unit can run effectivly.

 

[djian]

I used the one from melev's site. http://www.melevsreef.com/plumbing/auto_topoff.html

Works great for almost a year.

 

[emoutz]

I just set one up. I got a 15 gallon tank, used an old minijet pump, an a JBJ auto-top off system (two float switches and a controller). When my sump hits a low water mark just above my main return pump, the mini-jet kicks in and puts enough water in the sump to fill it up again (happens about once every day or so). The 15 gallon tank lasts about 1/5 weeks before I need to refill it. I also put calcium/buffer/micro-nutrient doses in my 15 gallon so that my main tank is getting daily doses. Helps keep the ph stable too.

The JBJ is hardwired to allow the pump to run for a max of 3 minutes - so even if for some reason the float switches failed and the sump overflowed, there would be a minimum of water spillage (remember that the sump would have to fill up - which takes a minute or so). That might suck, but I think all auto-top off systems are subject to issues like this.

 

[david86camaro]

I use a float valve, but I have it supplied from a sealed 55 gal container with the air relief going to the tank so if the float vavle doesn't work no air would be alowed in the container so no water will go in the tank. It works with very little maintiance, but you have to have the 55 gal container a little higher than the tank.

 

[stugray]

david86camaro,
If I understand what you are talking about it's genius.

Currently I just use a float valve directly on the output of my RO/DI ( which I know is bad for the RO/DI, AND a risk if the valve ever stuck open).

I am planning on building a storage container that the RO/DI will fill periodically. Since the storage container will be in my laundry room ( directly above my basement sump room ), I planned on having it sealed with a vent to the outside. This will keep cleaning fumes out of my water.

But.... the idea you just mentioned is brilliant! If I run the vent line down to my sump & attach it so that the intake is just a little above water level, then if the float valve ever sticks, the sump will begin to fill and eventually block the vent line intake.

Once the vent is blocked no more RO/DI water will be able to leave the storage tank.

I think I'll have to try that.

Stu

 

[david86camaro]

If you plan on using this idea, here is what I have learned:
The water line is 1/4" but I use 3/8" for the air line then use and old gravel cleaner to have a wide mouth so that the water is able to create a strong back pressure.
I have a t with a vlave that my ro/di is piped in to the system on the water side so that it can create pressure to get the water to the tank(my tank is accros the room with the tubes in the ceiling.
I hope this helps, I love the system I just fill my container every few weeks and that is it.

 

[Trex420]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7332837#post7332837 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by david86camaro
I use a float valve, but I have it supplied from a sealed 55 gal container with the air relief going to the tank so if the float valve doesn't work no air would be allowed in the container so no water will go in the tank. It works with very little maintenance, but you have to have the 55 gal container a little higher than the tank.

How did you get the container air tight? I imagine it would be fairly difficult to do in my case. I don't have the luxury of being able to run my RO/DI unit to my sump area. I'm trying to figure out a good container to refill by hand to use as my top off container that would be airtight and have a opening large enough for a pump to be placed inside. I use 2-3 gal a day currently! I can place a container above the level of the sump but I can't think of a container that will seal properly and retain the ability to be refilled. david86camaro from what you are talking about the container would then have an air intake hose that ran down to just above the desired water level in the container. I think it is a great and simple backup and am going to do my best to implement the idea into my topoff system. I am going to go with the double sump unit from www.autotopoff.com. The unit is $50, you can buy the parts and DIY it for something like $30. I think I'll pay the extra $20 to have it done professionally and for it for look professional.

 

[johnstelting]

Water Top Off

Water Top Off

Ok, here goes........ opening a can of worms.

Since I do at least a 10 gallon water change each week in my 55 gallon tank....... what will it hurt if my tank is about 3 gallons low when I get around to doing the water change?

 

[stugray]

johnstelting,

You didnt say what your total water volume is. 3/55 is only 5.5% so you shouldnt have a big issue with salinity swing.

At least for my setup: If I was three gallons low, the pump section in my sump will get so low that my pump starts sucking bubbles. I actually did it this way to 'amplify' the water loss so that the top-off responds more quickly.

Stu

 

[david86camaro]

To get a sealed container I had a 55 gal barrel that had two about 3" screw on lids. I sealed one and drilled a hole in the other and ran the tubes though it and then epoxied it so that it is sealed.
One thing to add, make sure one tube(the water one) is long enough to reach the bottom and the other is just below the cap.

With my old system I used the same concept(minus the float valve) with a 5 gal. glass jar. It was great I just filled the jar once a week, but it wouldn't work now I go through about 10-15 gallons a week.

 

[Trex420]

"With my old system I used the same concept(minus the float valve) with a 5 gal. glass jar. It was great I just filled the jar once a week, but it wouldn't work now I go through about 10-15 gallons a week."

I am both trying to plan for my 29 gal and my 75 gal. I was thinking a gravity fed system using a hung upside down plastic container (maybe a 2 liter bottle) plumbed with the air hose just above the water level would work well for the 29g. The 75g will take a little more effort and $$$. Looks like I'll be filling the 75 by hand for a while longer.

David is your system gravity fed?