what phosphate remover are you using?

I've seen recommendations to avoid Aluminum {white} based Phosphate removers. This is after I purchased some- but I am having good results with it. No corals have shown negative behavior, not even big 'softies'. Has anyone used any of the 'red' Iron based phosphate removers? Have you really noticed a difference in the results?
 
Sprungs phos-ban, run "low flow" in a fluidized reactor, works great, took my low PO4 level to unmeasurable in about a week with noticable reduction in some nuisance algae.

A must, IMO, for those of us with senescent sand beds!

JT
 
Sometime in late 2002, I had an algae problem and though phosphate removal may aid in the reduction of the hair algae. It did not take long for my leathers to close up and look bad. A call to the Kent tech department reassured me the condition was only temporary and I could continue using the product as directed. I pulled the phosphate sponge from the tank and cannot bring myself to trying it again. (BTW, the leathers did quickly recover.)

The label states the product is "a ceramic medium" and it "will not release soluble aluminum compounds into your aquarium"

ri
 
Thanks for the replies. I believe I'm going to run a phosphate remover on a continual basis along with replacing my DSB. Results are looking too good to ignore. I'm using the stuff 'passively', FWIW- just a bag of it sitting in a high flow area of my sump.
 
Gary, when I used alumina po4- remover in my SPS tank, I also did not see any negative results--notice that Mojoreef use Po4-[Proline, I believe] with obviously good results. IME, Al-Po4- media is exhausted quickly in 1-3 d depending on the amt of phosphate within the system,Bob
 
Take a look at this.

http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/filtermedia/antiphos.shtml

http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/filtercomponents/phosphatefilter.shtml

I did a little research, and found the problem with most phosphate removal medias is that they contain aluminum or iron and can leach it into the aquarium. This uses zeolites, like the the Zeovit products people are using in Germany, and is not supposed to leach anything.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83061&highlight=Antiphos

The Phosphate filter comes with 1000 ml of Antiphos. You can get it here:

http://www.championlighting.com/e/e...filters.html?link=/Products/Filters/misc.html

I'm thinking of trying it.

Tom Berry:fish2:
 
Tom, in the past I have used both products in my SPS systems. I used them at different times & noticed no differences in the SPS's. Both work for a short period of time. I'm currently running Rowaphos thru the antiphos filter,Bob
 
The phosguard and all Al based products would not leeech Al into the water. Unless you tank is very very very sick. It is basic chemistry. Although I am too busy to get my analytical book out of the basement I can offer a basic explanation.

Think of your Ca reactors. Inside the rxn chamber the water is being pushed down to very low pH's. Al is the same. At low pH the Al will begin to leech into the water. We are talking like 4-5.0 Noone I know of could ever get a reef tank down to that nor would they want to.
To tell you a story.... I worked in the ADK mtns on some lake restorations. These people were pumping the raw sewage into the lake. O.k. when there are 5 cabins on a lake. But late 70's early 80's = economic boom and people have got $ to buy land and cottages all the suddent that turned to like 50 cottages. So... still pumping sewage in the lake. Wham phosphorus spike and bam! Enormous cyanno blooms on these peoples little ex-pristine piece of very expensive property. Enter, ADK park ageny, and EPA. Now they literally dumped Al based phosphorus removers into the lakes. Phos lowered and now treating waste from cottages, algae gone everyones happy. fast forward...... enter the elimination of all buffering capacity by way of acid precipitation and natural leeching of tannic acid from the evergreens. pH of the lakes drops suddenly and sharply. Low and behold now fish are starting to show edema (found the book) reduced gill atpase activity that "reduces active transport of Na, Cl into plasma from water". By the way the magic number (or negative log rather) is pH = 5 before the Al will start to leech into the water. DEC's answer = lime the lakes. Basically just a large dose of kalkwasser. In the end things still aren't right. So moral of the story don't return the water from your Ca reactor anywhere Near where you have the phosphorus remover placed. Otherwise there is really NO WAY that it would leech Al into the water. JMHO
keep on swimming,
Ben
p.s. I gotta go get some PO4 remover also. I can't really comment on which sucks more phosphorus.
 
fI just hooked up the Phospatefilter today. It has the Antiphos in it. It already made an impact on my phosphates. They were at .1 and now are some where between .1 and 0. The Red Sea test kit goes from 0 to .1. The color is some where in the middle. I think I am going to change to phosban when the Antiphos runs out. Maybe I will keep it if it lasts a while. We will see.

Roy
 
Gary and Tom,
That chamber in the link looks nice, but isn't cheap. I just made one for carbon for my tank out of about $10 worth of HD parts. I have it running on my tank for a couple of days now and I'm really happy with it(No that's not my tank in the pic!). I'm making another one for a friend now.
These are crude pics, but should give you the gist of it. Let me know if you want more info. -John

25617CarbonChamber1.JPG


25617CarbonChamber2.JPG
 
Nice lookin' media chamber, John. I've decided to keep running my phosphate remover 'passively' in a high flow area of my sump, but your contraption sure is food for thought.
 
john...
nice chamber...have u tryed to run phosban in there?
i am looking for something like it for phosban
 
I will be running a Phosphate remover. I am using a couple of filter pads(like the white ones used for a drip tray)cut into discs and placed at each end. The pad is finer than a sponge so it should be fine. Also, the pump is small so it does not try to force the media out of the chamber. A slower flow means more contact time- GPH was not the objective. I also don't pack the media really tight. If there ever is a problem, I will use carbon for the first 3/4 or so and add the Phosphate remover inside it's mesh bag.

Sorry about derailing the thread...
 
You didn't de-rail it, EasyD, it sounds like you are describing a good inexpensive media chamber. FWIW- It makes sense to run Phosban initially, then switch to the {slightly more expensive and effective} Rowaphos. I have not been recharging any of my media. Does anybody actually sneak around the wife's kitchen and take time to bake that dirty stuff?:lol:
 
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