Wiring up float valve to shut off skimmer pump

JohnnyBoyPerth

New member
Hi All,

I currently have my skimmer drain line plumbed into a bucket to increase its capacity. This works great generally but sometimes this has flooded when my skimmer decided to kick into high gear. (water changes and when using coral putty)

I would like to hook up two float valves that when triggered will turn off the skimmer pump. ie if the sump gets too full or if the skimmer bucket gets too full

Ideally i do not want to cut into the skimmer pump lead and would like to do something similar to the below.

Skimmer%20set%20up_zpssocpe0pm.jpg

Relay%20Wiring_zpsxvfvbrga.jpg


I currently have a heater hooked up in a similar manor. The controller/probe is wired to a piggy back plug and the heater connects directly into the piggy back plug. No additional wires or cuts.

Can someone with some electrical knowledge let me know if this will work and where to get the wireable piggy back plug.

Also if this does not work i understand i can cut the skimmer pump power and wire directly quite easily. Just would rather not.

Thanks
 
I would like to DIY this system if i can.

I have revised the drawing a little as it has been said that using a piggy back system is not the safest as all 240v? In any case, this is now what i would like to do.



Still unsure about what relay i would need to purchase or how to wire it but suggestions are welcomed

thanks
 
How about just simple float switch and the electric wire with plug. So when the floater is up it will cut off the power. Just like the ato logic.
 
You'll need to choose if you want to go with a regular or a low voltage relay for your application. Your pump runs off of 240V already, technically the same voltage can be used on the relay to signal the cut off. However, this means that you would need to run 240V through the floating switch in the water, which IMHO is insane given the usual quality of floating switches. The alternative is to use a low voltage relay which can still cut off 240V power to your pump, but the coil trigger is only 12V. For this you will also need a separate 12V power supply.

So a 12VDC coil, 250VAC contact, 10A contact current, DPDT relay should be sufficient.

In addition you will need a 12VDC power supply to run the coil.
And no need for a piggy back plug. Just wire the relay in the middle of a short extension cord for the pump. One side plugs into the wall, the other connects to the pump plug. Once the power is applied to the coil in the relay, the power to the pump gets cut off.

As for having the second float switch in the sump to cut off the skimmer, I think it's only necessary if you have a huge skimmer waste container and you don't want to drain the sump before the waste container float switch gets triggered. But if you do want to have both float switches operating, you can chain them together to the coil on the relay.
 
You absolutely need the relay. Float switches are low current devices; if you run high currents though them, they over heat and fail, sometimes fusing the contacts together. Verify the specs of the coil current in your relay to make sure that isn't too much current for the float switch.

I think the 2nd float switch in the sump is a good idea. I wold also consider a 2nd backup switch in your skimmate reservoir. Float switches are known for sticking, and unless it's somehow protected, it would be very easy for a float switch to get gummed up with climate and fail on you.

As for the question of using a low vs high voltage coil on the relay, I would absolutely go with a low voltage one. Otherwise you are potentially running 240V through the float switch. What happens when one of the wires cracks? :fun5: 12V is definitely much safer.
 
You'll need to choose if you want to go with a regular or a low voltage relay for your application. Your pump runs off of 240V already, technically the same voltage can be used on the relay to signal the cut off. However, this means that you would need to run 240V through the floating switch in the water, which IMHO is insane given the usual quality of floating switches. The alternative is to use a low voltage relay which can still cut off 240V power to your pump, but the coil trigger is only 12V. For this you will also need a separate 12V power supply.

So a 12VDC coil, 250VAC contact, 10A contact current, DPDT relay should be sufficient.

In addition you will need a 12VDC power supply to run the coil.
And no need for a piggy back plug. Just wire the relay in the middle of a short extension cord for the pump. One side plugs into the wall, the other connects to the pump plug. Once the power is applied to the coil in the relay, the power to the pump gets cut off.

As for having the second float switch in the sump to cut off the skimmer, I think it's only necessary if you have a huge skimmer waste container and you don't want to drain the sump before the waste container float switch gets triggered. But if you do want to have both float switches operating, you can chain them together to the coil on the relay.
Thanks for the detailed reply Pittsburgh,

I am now going to go with a AC/DC relay with small 12v power supply to get the job done as you have described. I have been given a full schematic layout, so that will be very helpful. Looks like i wont have to locate a wireable piggy pack plug either, turns out they are not available for purchase in Australia anyway!


And i agree about not just running a float valve in line with the pump, don't like mixing 240v power with salt water.

Thanks for everyones help.

I may have a few more questions when everything arrives in the post :)
 
Reviewing your past posts...think it might be time to look at an Apex. Best thing I purchased for my 120 gal peninsula tank. I use mine to shut off my skimmer if water level is too high, even a default delay when the power comes on.
 
Reviewing your past posts...think it might be time to look at an Apex. Best thing I purchased for my 120 gal peninsula tank. I use mine to shut off my skimmer if water level is too high, even a default delay when the power comes on.
I have been looking into a apex system for some time. The cost does scare me off though. With the modules i would like it will end up being around $1200 AUD, quite a sizeable investment.

I do have my 30th birthday coming up so this might be a present to myself.
 
Another Apex fan boy here! $1200 AUD - ouch!

Look for a used one. Do you have a local club? Reach out to them. Also you could start with a basic unit and add modules as you have $$. The module you'd need for the switches is the Break out Box (BoB).
 
Hi johnny
Another Perth reefer here, I have a boxed shutoff in use at the moment. I will pull it apart in the weekend and take a shot with the list of components. On my unit I am switching to a non contact sensor as I find the floats to be unreliable.

Cheers Matt
 
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