20H Nano Build Log

[Patricklong]

As some of you know, I have been around for a few months asking questions, researching and just general information gathering. I have been purposefully taking a slow road as this is my first build ever, and wanted to make sure I am comfortable moving forward.

I have a couple threads out there about my sump so I will not go over everything in full detail, but I want to try and keep a steady log progression of at least recaps.


It all started with this, a 20h for display and 10g for sump.

I wanted to keep it very simple tank wise, and didnt want to go over the top with my first time drilling and modifying. These two tanks quickly became the beginnings of a decent Nano setup (at least in my eyes)

While all this was going on, I was waiting on pieces of equipment to show up. I really didnt want to cheap out on this part seeing as all of this is the lifeline of a great reef. The Mp10 was a no brainer for me. All the hype about these units must not just be a gimmick, there is too many of them in use LOL. I debated a while on the skimmer for 2 reasons. 1, I wanted to keep the section of the sump as small as possible, and 2 wanted to have something that is reliable.

I was having an issue finding a stand that would work with the 20h while having enough room underneath for the 10g. I debated building my own, but talked myself out of all the woodwork. I ended up going with this stand for a 29 gallon from the place that pets go.

(not my pic)

I needed to cut plywood to cover the bottom shelf and to fit on top to make my mind at ease about weight distribution.

If you notice the felt pads on top of the stand, I noticed a slight maybe 1/8th difference of height when the plywood was set in place.

(sorry for crap cell pic)

 

[Patricklong]

I wanted to keep my plumbing as straight forward as I can....but Im sure its still terrible and will need to be changed after I post this thread LOL!

I split the return with Locline, I felt that this would help me keep deadspots out of the corners, especially with that Mp10 on the other side.

My drain is fitted with a simple ball valve for sump maintenance and emergency shut off.

The return has a gate valve so that I can regulate the flow back into the DT

I am now debating on a return pump. The only issue I have with my return pump choice is size of the actual pump. The way that I designed my sump, space is everything. Im debating on the mag3 because I think that it will be powerful enough for me to run this T and another ball valve to recirculate some water back into the refugium section.

I have mock setup the mp10 and set everything on the stand, and I think I actually like it.

Thank you everyone who has answered my silliness, and put up with bupkes I will update this more as more happens with the return plumbing, and DIY led build. If anyone has questions comments, or things that need to be said, say them please......especially if its some flaw you see that my newb eyes do not.

 

[jacob.morgan78]

Nice looking setup so far! I'm currently building my stand for a 20H I'm setting up. Had to modify a couple things to get the 10g sump in. Your sump looks great! Can you point me in the direction of the threads you mentioned dealing with your sump? I'm looking forward to more updates and I'll point you in the direction of my build once I get farther along.

 

[jacob.morgan78]

One thing I noticed, I don't think it's a good idea to have a valve on your drain line. You'll never need to stop flow to your sump because all you would need to do is stop your return pump. All the valve can do is cause problems that could lead to your display tank overflowing. HTH

 

[tommer725]

One thing I noticed, I don't think it's a good idea to have a valve on your drain line. You'll never need to stop flow to your sump because all you would need to do is stop your return pump. All the valve can do is cause problems that could lead to your display tank overflowing. HTH

Very true.

 

[Patricklong]

Hey thanks! Apprecieate the compliment.

Here is my sump build. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2193291

As far as the ball valve on the drain line goes. Its completely open and will remain that way, and is the same diameter as the 1" pipe if not slightly larger. Am I missing something obvious that would cause this to be an issue if it remains open?

 

[tommer725]

Am I missing something obvious that would cause this to be an issue if it remains open?

No but this is not very practical. If you ever knock it and it shuts off without you noticing, which happened to me twice, you have to get the shop vac to get the water up off the floor.

The valve also might leak, which probably wont happen. If it isnt too big a pain take it off, after all you probably are going to have this up for a while, so you want it to be done right.

 

[Patricklong]

I'm sorry, but I'm still failing to see the problem with the ball valve. Every drain diagram I have seen (including BeanAnimals) utilizes a ball valve on the drain.

I don't know about your ball valves but I'm sure the glass would break before I "bump" the valve closed.....every ball valve I've ever touched was NOT an easy close.

Sorry if this is sounding redundant, but how is the ball valve a problem if it remains open? Are you saying every drain out there with a valve is not practical?

 

[tommer725]

Its fine. Just not logical. Not much bad could happen

 

[jacob.morgan78]

If I'm correct, beananimal has an adjustable drain but also utilizes an emergency overflow drain as well. Might be wrong... Not a huge deal if it's always open. What are you planning to use it for?

 

[herbklee]

nice. any updates?
what kind of overflow and size of drain and return are you using?
what is the flow rate through your sump/refugium?
thanks and keep up the good work.

 

[TundraGuy]

Looks simplistic and effective. Lol on the drain with a valve discussion. In the bean animal overflow the valve is set to allow a known amount of water through a pipe there by creating a siphon pulling water out of the box without pulling air I have been able to dial in 2000gph on a 1.5”drain pipe using the Bean Animal. But with a single drain and no back up there is no point to the valve. But you got one there and its fine left open. I could see it being fun to close it let the water level rise then open it and quickly drain the upper tank back to normal. I do it by cupping the drains sometimes just for kicks. The truth is people are so nervous when they see a valve on a drain, but for your use I don’t see any reason to remove it. Looking forward to pix and updates.

 

[reefscape15]

Nice, I'm in the process of setting up my old 20h too. I had thoughts of drilling it but I decided on an hob overflow box instead. Cant wait to see another 20 and how it turns out