225 gallon tank stand with corner overflows

Saint_saiko

New member
Hi!

So this is my first post on here, not exactly sure if I’ve done this correctly or gone to the correct forum, but here it goes.

(This is a 2 part question)

So I’m planning to build a tank stand for my 225 gallon acrylic tank ( 6’ L x 2’ D x 30” H) with two back corner overflows.my questions about this project are:

1. I’m planning to build the stand with no center brace since I’m planning to put in a 75 gallon sump in the bottom of the tank. With that being said I’m planning to build the top frame out of 2x8’s front and back would be doubled and the uprights would be out of 2x6s doubled up with three rows on each side then two center braces doubled up in back with the bottom frame being 2x4’s. Now because it’s acrylic and I have to cut slots in the 1 1/8 plywood for the corner overflows I have to make the stand slightly longer (6”) and deeper (3”-6”) it’s going to be built based on rocketengineer and Joey’s (king of diy) tank stand build just with an additional center vertical brace on each side. With that being said will the 2x8 top frame be enough to hold the tank without risk of bowing in the middle with no center brace? Or can I maybe get away with just adding two more vertical center braces of 2x6’s offset to each side of the sump in the front?

Then

2. Is it an issue that the tank won’t be on the perimeter of the top frame even though it’ll be on a 1 1/8” plywwood sheet?

Sorry if that was a little long winded. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you
 
A double 2*8 over 6ft span is rated for over 3000lbs and you're going to have 2 double 2*8 so you are way more than supported. With 1.125 plywood, I would say your deflection would be near zero so I don't see any possible problems. You could use construction adhesive under the plywood to be over-overkill if you want.
 
So even if the tank isn’t going to be directly on the support beams it’ll be fine? Because the way I’d have to place it for the sump plumbing it needs to be offset from the horizontal bracing of the frame in the back.
 
So even if the tank isn’t going to be directly on the support beams it’ll be fine? Because the way I’d have to place it for the sump plumbing it needs to be offset from the horizontal bracing of the frame in the back.
To be certain you could run 2X8 studs to join the front and back beams like a floor. Use joist hangers to maximize the overkill. I'm not being facetious, you want to be able to sleep at night and there's nothing wrong with that.
 
To be certain you could run 2X8 studs to join the front and back beams like a floor. Use joist hangers to maximize the overkill. I'm not being facetious, you want to be able to sleep at night and there's nothing wrong with that.
Awesome thank you! I really appreciate your time and answer! I did have one more additional question which is is it ok that I’m going to be using 2x8 for the top frame then 2x4 for the bottom frame with the 2x6 verticals? I’m just thinking that the bottom frame doesn’t need to be 2x8 since is going to be directly on the floor and isn’t going to be really supporting any pressure other than to just help keep the tank stand itself square and it’s save me some height and space
 
Awesome thank you! I really appreciate your time and answer! I did have one more additional question which is is it ok that I’m going to be using 2x8 for the top frame then 2x4 for the bottom frame with the 2x6 verticals? I’m just thinking that the bottom frame doesn’t need to be 2x8 since is going to be directly on the floor and isn’t going to be really supporting any pressure other than to just help keep the tank stand itself square and it’s save me some height and space
It will be fine.
 
So I attached a photo of the holes drilled in my corner overflows. Because of how close they are to the outer walls is why I can’t have three out of the four perimeters of the tank supported directly. Which would be both sides and the back of the tank.
 

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