jharding08
BlueWorldAquatics.com
Hello all,
I am upgrading my frag tank to a size that fits my stand better and provides me more room/volume for frags. I am getting good growth with my current setup, but I am having the following issues:
-Egg crate is getting a ton of algae in between. Need to siphon out every water change
-"Stairs" setup is good for display and light acclimation, but I cant get to the bottom of the tank to clean, retrieve fallen corals easily.
-"Stairs" are too high and too close to front of tank. Current frag tank is 36"x12"x12". Stairs are 9" high x 9" deep. This provides 4 levels for corals, but when I turn off the return pump the top level is out of the water and the first level is too front close to the glass where I cant get the mag float by it without catching on the egg crate.
-The whole egg crate stairs floats and moves without enough weight on it.
Luckily, my father-in-law is in the acrylic manufacturing industry and surprised me for xmas with an acrylic frag tank made out of 3/8" acrylic with 1/2" front panel built to my specifications.

The back panel is black acrylic to hide the plumbing.
There are no bulkhead holes drilled yet. I plan on doing a bean animal overflow with 1" plumbing and the returns will be drilled into the back wall on the outside of the overflow with 3/4" bulkheads and loc line.
The overflow bulkheads are spaced 6" apart so I can put a 1" 90 elbow and a street elbow for my siphon, open channel drains. I will use a straight 1" PVC for the emergency drain. The open channel will be 3/4" taller than the siphon line so I can get a full siphon on restart and the emergency line will be 1/2" taller than the open channel, but below the tank water line


I currently use a Sicce 2.0 (568 GPH) on my 22 gallon tank with a SCWD and can either continue to use the 2.0 or move to a 5.0 (1321 GPH) for the 32 gallon tank
I plan on ditching the egg crate for the new tank and using long/wide/low pieces of live rock, where I can create islands on the bare bottom tank and attach the corals to the live rock and to the bare bottom.
For flow, I will stick with the SCWD alternating flows from the return pump until I can determine if I need more flow with a powerhead. A Gyre might be in order.
For lights I am using a RapidLED Onyx unit wired to my Apex for dimming.
I am keeping the same sump until I can get my father-in-law to build me one of those to my specs as well.
Let me know what you think. I plan on drilling the tank this weekend.
I am upgrading my frag tank to a size that fits my stand better and provides me more room/volume for frags. I am getting good growth with my current setup, but I am having the following issues:
-Egg crate is getting a ton of algae in between. Need to siphon out every water change
-"Stairs" setup is good for display and light acclimation, but I cant get to the bottom of the tank to clean, retrieve fallen corals easily.
-"Stairs" are too high and too close to front of tank. Current frag tank is 36"x12"x12". Stairs are 9" high x 9" deep. This provides 4 levels for corals, but when I turn off the return pump the top level is out of the water and the first level is too front close to the glass where I cant get the mag float by it without catching on the egg crate.
-The whole egg crate stairs floats and moves without enough weight on it.
Luckily, my father-in-law is in the acrylic manufacturing industry and surprised me for xmas with an acrylic frag tank made out of 3/8" acrylic with 1/2" front panel built to my specifications.

The back panel is black acrylic to hide the plumbing.
There are no bulkhead holes drilled yet. I plan on doing a bean animal overflow with 1" plumbing and the returns will be drilled into the back wall on the outside of the overflow with 3/4" bulkheads and loc line.
The overflow bulkheads are spaced 6" apart so I can put a 1" 90 elbow and a street elbow for my siphon, open channel drains. I will use a straight 1" PVC for the emergency drain. The open channel will be 3/4" taller than the siphon line so I can get a full siphon on restart and the emergency line will be 1/2" taller than the open channel, but below the tank water line


I currently use a Sicce 2.0 (568 GPH) on my 22 gallon tank with a SCWD and can either continue to use the 2.0 or move to a 5.0 (1321 GPH) for the 32 gallon tank
I plan on ditching the egg crate for the new tank and using long/wide/low pieces of live rock, where I can create islands on the bare bottom tank and attach the corals to the live rock and to the bare bottom.
For flow, I will stick with the SCWD alternating flows from the return pump until I can determine if I need more flow with a powerhead. A Gyre might be in order.
For lights I am using a RapidLED Onyx unit wired to my Apex for dimming.
I am keeping the same sump until I can get my father-in-law to build me one of those to my specs as well.
Let me know what you think. I plan on drilling the tank this weekend.






