48 inch light fixture..

what kind?

I have several 48" NO fixtures but they need some work.

Why not just get an electronic ballast shop light at the HD for $8.00.
 
On a 48" fixture I'd go with an Icecap 660 and URI VHO bulbs. Long term it's the most cost effective setup. And if you change tanks, like get a 180, the configurations can be changed to different bulbs.

One of the few situations where it makes sense to fabricate your own light fixture.


jmo,
 
I have to say that Agu has said it all.

I would buy the IC 660 and URI VHO over free PCs.

Just the price difference in bulbs should make you see that IC ballast W/VHOs is a better choice not to mention the energy savings of the IC ballast. and that the bulbs will last %50 longer.

In the long run the PCs will cost twice as much.
 
Yes thats the problem with the bow and wave fronts you gotta drop some mean cash to put lights on them and have it look good.

Still I would stay away from the PCs and ty to get a fixture that looks good and put the IC ballasts in them un less you want to spend $800.00 on a real nice IC T5 fixture.
 
Do some math price to watt

Current USA PowerCompact Orbit Fixture48 inch 4x96 Watt $523

Coralife 48 Inch Aqualight With 2-65W Actinic / 2-65W 10,000K Lamp Straight Pin $200 thats 260watts you would have to buy 2 to equal the 440 watts from an IC 660

Current PC 384 watts $523
Coralife PC 510 watts $400
Ice Cap 660 440 watts $300


Current PC replacement cost 2 110 watt 10,000K $60 and 2 110 watt True Actinic 03 $60 $ 120 a year

Coralife PC replacement cost 4 65 watt 10,000K and 4 65 watt True Actinic 03 Blue Try to find streight pin bulbs if you find them for $25 thats $200 a year

URI VHO replacement cost 2 110 watt 10,000K $48 and 2 110 watt True Actinic 03 $42 $ 90 a year
 
ok..ok you got me thinking. I am trying to figure out how the light that is on it now could be used to hold the VHOs. The lights that are on it now are only (2) 40 inche long ones and i know the 48 inch wouldnt fit and i doubt the 46.5 one would either.

I am guessing i could strip the current light and just mount new end caps etc, but then i would only be able to hold 2 36 inch bulbs. Maybe i could find someone who is in the process of setting up their lights and help me weld something to hold two more? Also,

Current Set up of lights
current.jpg


Design:
design.jpg


So, i would need the Ice Cap 660, 4 pairs of end caps and mounts, and what else??



Thoughts? Comments? Ideas?
 
You would need a fixture and a reflecter.

You could DIY it and make it look kinda modern black mettal and stainless cables.

Here is mine so far.
rackend.jpg


rackfront.jpg


racktop3.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8803369#post8803369 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by a2fire2i
so then would i be better off going with 4 39 watt t5s with SLR T5 reflectors?

4 39 watt t5s? That is less wattage than 4 NO bulbs at 5 times the expence. just get 2 shop lights and 2 6500K daylight bulbs and 2 NO actinics, you would have 4 more watts for only $40 total
 
The URI VHOs have internal reflectors, but an external will help Champion lighting has 48" reflectors.

What are you trying to do?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8802098#post8802098 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by a2fire2i
Why the animosity towards PCs? I have them running on my 20L and love them...

I have them on all my nanos, they're the best option for small tanks imo.

When you get up to larger tanks they're just not cost effective.
 
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