60 gallon Cube DIY Build - Looking For Feedback

[neuro]

Hey can I have a 60 gallon cube myself. I think you're on the right track for building extra space for your electronics. I've been kicking myself for not planning for it myself. I wanted to mention that the placement of that extension is important in relation to where it's put. If you ever want to move the stand/tank, you'll have to account for how that extension is accessible and the aesthetics. But I gather you've already thought of this.

The stand space is great but like others have mentioned, it can get crowded quickly. If you ever go on vacation, the 6 gallons of ato will only last you 5 or 6 days. You'll have to have a larger reservoir to make it at least a week. I had to use a 10 gallon bucket and have a friend come by to refill it. Just FYI.

Also for the top off spaces, I found that using the space saver gallon containers are great because:

1. You mix the batch in those containers making it really easy to mix.
2. All you do next is put the container back into the stand and put one end of the doser tube through the cap. I have spare containers which just allows me to just switch the containers using the spare cap.
3. If you're stocking heavy you'll be replacing the solutions often.
4. If that side of the sump isn't visible, you'll have to check often how much solution is left.
5. You may need to find a way or build in a bracket to hold the tube toward the bottom.

Anyways I hope my mistakes can be prevented in your build!

 

[GoCougsDan]

Ok, so I added in some shelves not only because they're useful, but also to hide the return line. I've been battling with ways to get the return line back to the tank without drilling a hole in the tank and I think this is gonna be it. there will just be a corner taken out of the shelves that will go all the way up to the tank and then will come out and will be directed to the tank using loc-line. The shelves will be non-permanently attached to the stand so I can access the return line. It also provides a convenient way to hide the cords from the lights and fans in the hood. I'm just gonna have to use a crapload of wood sealant to make sure the salt creep doesn't mess with the wood on the shelves.

So what do you think? Do you have a better solution to my return line woes? Do the shelves make the stand look like garbage? Should the shelves go higher or only high enough to get the return line back into the tank?

Lemme know!

Thanks Neuro for your input! I'm currently devising a better reservoir for the ato. Also, were you saying that you mixed your 2-part in the space saver jugs and used those to hold your 2-part to be dosed into the tank?

Thanks hijinks and Braves95! your input is helpful!

 

[neuro]

So what do you think? Do you have a better solution to my return line woes? Do the shelves make the stand look like garbage? Should the shelves go higher or only high enough to get the return line back into the tank?

Lemme know!

Thanks Neuro for your input! I'm currently devising a better reservoir for the ato. Also, were you saying that you mixed your 2-part in the space saver jugs and used those to hold your 2-part to be dosed into the tank?

Thanks hijinks and Braves95! your input is helpful!

I drilled my tank for the drain, but I didn't do it for the return and I regret it. My rimless would be a lot cleaner looking if I had done that instead of the piping that comes over the edge. I think your shelves is an ingenious way to hide it. Though the shelves will always be a part of the setup.

Yes I mix in the same containers that are also used for the dosing. I actually have a total of four of those containers. When one is near empty, I take a spare one out, mix the solution in that, and then replace the near-empty one with the newly mixed one. This allows me to be really flexible. Although having the 2 part areas being in the sump design I imagine won't be difficult to refill and maintain if done properly.

I'm really digging the build thread!1

 

[GoCougsDan]

Thanks for all the input! I think I'm going to forego the 2-part areas in the sump and turn that into one large ATO reservoir and do the 2 jug method like you did. Your version is very cost effective and makes it easy to do changes, which I like a lot. I'm glad I'm beginning to narrow all of these things down as I get closer to building this thing.

My present concern is whether or not my return pump will be powerful enough at 5 feet of head pressure to reach a minimum of 700 gph. Does anyone have knowledge or experience with an external return pump that could manage this?

Also, I'm planning on leaving room for 2 media reactors for carbon and GFO. Would it be possible to plumb them into the return line with "T"'s and use what extra pressure from the return pump and a few gate valves to regulate flow through them? I just don't want to designate two more pumps just to put water into the reactors if I can just use the extra pressure from the return pump. Or am I just crazy and it can't be done?... If this is confusing I can draw a diagram and have it up later tonight to explain better

This weekend I will begin welding the stand together, so this build thread will finally start to take some form that isn't in sketchup!

 

[neuro]

i know you mentioned 700gph, but i imagine you'll want something much more if you're going to plumb your reactors into the return line. You can always dial back the return head by using a gate valve. There are tons of folks here with pictures on their return line being split. BTW, I'm use a pump to power my GFO reactor instead of plumbing in-line so I can control the pump via my controller. It's a give-n-take with that.

i think most manufacturers have a head vs. gph chart. I know eheim does, and i have a laguna power jet, which I found the head chart for also. Everyone's got an opinion about a return pump brands, but i imagine you'll find lots of recommendations if you're doing a search for 'return pump'. Just FYI, I think the consensus is that the DC pumps tend to be the least draw on power and tend to be quieter.

glad things are coming together!

 

[hijinks]

I use a dc6000 and I run the following off it via manifold

2 two little fishes 150 reactors
Fug water

Still have 2 spots left on my manifold for more items. I have a gate valve on the return so I can control the flow

I recommend getting a bigger return pump. The dc6000 is almost whisper quiet at full flow if you use plastic tubbing off the pump and not PVC

 

[GoCougsDan]

Man you guys are awesome! I'm really thankful that you both have similar systems and can provide insight and testimony for my build. I'll look into the dc6000 and the laguna 1300. They are both submersible return pumps, correct? I’ll do some more research and both and a few others and come to a decision, then make modifications to the sump accordingly, leaving extra space in case the pump fails and i need to replace it with a larger one.
The main reason why I wanted an external pump was to avoid heat transfer, but I suppose that would be bigger problem for bigger tanks, and perhaps not so bad for a 60 gal + sump. Also, with DC pumps, it appears that with the lower rpm, the heat generated is nearly negligible.

Hijinks, how did you attach your vinyl tubing to your return pump? Did you use a plastic hose clamp of some sort?

 

[neuro]

Hey if you do go for the Laguna brands, I'd look at the Laguna max flo line. Yes they are submersible. The motor/pump is very similar to other return pump brands on the market. I do not have a problem with heat transfer.

My next purchase would be a pump like the dc6000.

 

[GoCougsDan]

Thanks for helping me narrow down the search. I'll keep you all posted on the verdict when I get to one!

I suppose the next topic I want to tackle in the meantime would be nutrient export. I've read mixed reviews about black sand and can't seem to land on a definite answer. I really like the look of black sand, but some people insist that it doesn't act as a biological filter like white aragonite does. If I intend to run with 2" black sand in the DT and no sand in the refug, will there be enough nutrient export (nitrates/ites) using just the corraline algae, the corals themselves, the skimmer, and the xenia refugium? I plan on running a primarily LPS tank with some fish if that helps for a reference.

If you think that the previously stated filters are not enough, can you suggest any other biological filters other than a DSB or macroalgae?

Your help in planning this build is highly HIGHLY appreciated!

 

[hijinks]

Man you guys are awesome! I'm really thankful that you both have similar systems and can provide insight and testimony for my build. I'll look into the dc6000 and the laguna 1300. They are both submersible return pumps, correct? I'll do some more research and both and a few others and come to a decision, then make modifications to the sump accordingly, leaving extra space in case the pump fails and i need to replace it with a larger one.
The main reason why I wanted an external pump was to avoid heat transfer, but I suppose that would be bigger problem for bigger tanks, and perhaps not so bad for a 60 gal + sump. Also, with DC pumps, it appears that with the lower rpm, the heat generated is nearly negligible.

Hijinks, how did you attach your vinyl tubing to your return pump? Did you use a plastic hose clamp of some sort?

No clamp the dc6000 comes with different sIze attachments for different hose widths. The dc pumps can run external but I wouldn't run them externally and worry about leaks

As for heat I don't worry about it too much anymore since I run LEDs and must of my heat issues 6 years ago was from my MH lights

 

[GoCougsDan]

Gotcha. That all makes a lot of sense. Looks like Ill be getting a DC pump in the future then, and running it as a submersible unit rather than external.

 

[GoCougsDan]

After conducting some research I have decided to go with the dc6000. I'll be purchasing it later today after I find out how much renting a cap and gown for college graduation is going to cost me. Hopefully I wont be an amputee by the end of the day (cost me and arm and a leg). Thanks for your input!
I'm getting it now so that when I start getting my sump totally figured out I can use it for spacing. When I get the stand welded up this weekend I'll show it off!

 

[GoCougsDan]

It's been a few days so i wanted to get you all an update. I tried to upload a few of the pictures of the welding I was able to do this weekend, but the servers won't let me becaue the file size of the picture is too high . I will try again tomorrow. Unfortunately it will be a bit longer before I can get the rest of it welded up.
The dc6000 return pump will be coming in today or tomorrow too, so that's exciting! I also Have found/read another way to do a herbie overflow that will allow me to continue to use my existing holes in the reefready tank for both overflow and return. Ill see if i can find the thread and post it on here or at least sketch it up.
My cabinetry has also undergone some modifications as well as the sump. All will be posted this week (most likely) as I find time between exams and cramming.

Thanks for sticking with me!

 

[GoCougsDan]

OK! I had to pull up the picture and do some snip tool action to get them to be small enough files. here you go. It's perfectly square and will end up being either the top of the bottom of the tank. I'm a little rusting on my welding skills, but got good penetration on all of them!