ACII X10 not responding - HELP!

[Kenfuzed]

I need some help with my ACII and X10's. I can't get my X10 modules to respond to either auto or manual commands. When I first hooked it up I had one module turn on when it was prompted but then wouldn't shut off. Another module would stay on constantly and was only respondng to my "> 81 degrees" to turn off that particular MH light. Some modules stay on continually while others won't turn on at all.

Since I had bought this system used I thought that maybe I had some bum modules, so I purchased some new ones last week. Still no luck. I tried plugging them into different wall outlets (different circuit) with nothing attached and they still will not respond to my ACII's manual commands. I also tried resetting the controller by unplugging the power source and battery, still no change. Then I tried a different house code, but still no response.

Is there something wrong with the controller or is there some sort of interference on my lines. Considering how much I have invested into this controller I'm becoming very frustrated and don't want to keep throwing money at the problem.

 

[szwab]

sounds like you have something that is sendingnoise ocer the lines not allowing the x10 sinals to go through. try and identify what the culprit is and hook in a noise filter to it. that should help

 

[Kenfuzed]

Any idea where I should start? Sounds like a needle in a haystack if I have to try unplugging everything in the house and then trying to maually test the modules.

I just finished reading on the Neptune site about clipping the jumpers on the modules so I might try this as well.

 

[szwab]

you just have to unplug things one by one until you find out what is doing it. it is kind of a pain do a google search on "x-10 trouble shooting" there are a couple different sites out there with info.

 

[clp]

For debugging X10 problems here are a few things to check/try:

Here are a few things to check/try:

- Make sure that the control interface is plugged into the AquaController with a 4 conductor telephone cord. The light should blink off when commands are sent out, but otherwise will be on.
- Make sure that the control modules x10 addresses match the configuration of the AquaController. The default AquaController program is listed in the back of the manual.
- The control interface and control modules should plug into the same circuit. If not, you may need to install a signal bridge.
- Do no use power strips with active surge suppression as they can attenuate the x10 signal. Use inexpensive powerstrips.
- With the AquaController try to turn on and off the control modules. Go to Control & Status -> Manual Control. Select the device you are having trouble with and repeatedly turn it on and off. Note that commands are only sent out when you press the select button.
- If you have added any new equipment to your tank, turn it off, and then repeat the Manual control test.
- Try switching to an unused X10 address on the control module and in the AquaControllerââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s configuration.
- Try swapping the control module with a known good one and see if the problem persists.
- Try power cycling the AquaController. Remove the 9V battery and unplug the AC adapter at the same time.
- If nothing is working try shutting off all appliances around your tank, and then try the manual on/off test. If something is causing X10 interference around your tank, it is likely an electronic ballast.

Curt

 

[Kenfuzed]

Looks like it was a combination of things. Once I moved the powerline module to the wall outlet I was able to start controlling the modules on the same circuit. Unfortunately my tank is split across 2 circuits to balance the heavy load of pumps and lights, so I am only able to controll half my lights.

You mentioned a signal bridge. Does this require an electrician or can I install one without accessing the circuit breaker box?

 

[Illusion]

The way I resolved my problem with phases was moved the other breaker to the same phase by swapping to of my 15a breakers around... It was pretty easy... I went to the Local Hd to look at exactly how panels were without the breakers and came back home, Killed the main breaker and did the swap... took about 5 mins to do the entire thing... You can also get a phase coupler that hooks up to your Dryer Cord thats just a simple plug in module...

http://www.smarthome.com/4816B2.HTML

http://www.smarthome.com/4816A2.HTML

HTH<
James

 

[Kenfuzed]

I think I found another or similar cure. I can bridge the two Hot sides of my 220 receptacle with a .1 microfarad 600v capacitor. This will accomplish the same thing as those signal bridges at a fraction of the cost. I will test in the morning if this is actually the broken link in the signal before going to the electronics store for the capacitor.

 

[Illusion]

Yeah.. I saw that Fix as well but most dont Recomment using that as a long term solution..

James

 

[Kenfuzed]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6790869#post6790869 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Illusion
Yeah.. I saw that Fix as well but most dont Recomment using that as a long term solution..

James

Really, why not? I was just going to remove the 220 wall receptacle where my air condition plugs into, and bridge the two hot leads. Of course I'll shut off the power to this receptacle first. I think the commercially sold modules that plug into your 220 receptacle have the same capacitor inside them.

 

[Illusion]

I dont remember where I saw it.. I would have to look again...

I will try and find it tomorrow..

James

 

[Kenfuzed]

Well I tried running my air conditioner (220v) to bridge the two legs and no luck. With the A/C running I tried to manually trip the modules on the other circuit without any response. There is either some unknown noise on either circuit or the distance is too great and the signal is too weak by the time it moves from one to the other. This is very frustrating and I don't want to keep throwing money at the problem.

I wish there were a way to link one pole from each circuit to bridge them both together. My electrical theory is weak since it's been many years, but I was wondering what would happen if I joined one pole from each circuit using a wire and inline capacitor. Wouldn't this create a closer link between the two circuits for the signal to jump across?

Perhaps I'm grasping at straws, but there has to be a simple fix for this problem.

 

[Illusion]

Try doing the same with your Dryer if you have one... Turn on the Dryer and then see if you have X10 control... Do you have any Electronic ballasts? Which ballasts are you using for your supplemental lighting?

The Dryer trick worked for me so I went ahead and swapped the breakers around so that the 2 that I was using are on the same pole... No issues since except my halides blew 3 modules... I have ordered better replacments for those so that shouldnt happen again...

here is a link to X10 troubleshooting as well..
http://www.x10.com/support/support_x10faq.htm



HTH,
James

 

[Kenfuzed]

Thanks James. My house does not have a 220 hookup at the dryer, only where my window A/C is mounted. I believe the culprit is some sort of noise on one of the circuits.

Well I was just about to give up when I decided to try things in reverse. I took the powerline control module and moved it from one circuit to the other circuit (where I was getting no response). Amazingly (is that a word? ) it works across all circuits now! The only problem remaining is that one of my e-ballasts is staying on when it should be off. Odd that the ballast in question is a EVC brand ballast, while the IceCap ballasts work fine. This may be solved by clipping the jumper inside the module to ignore the momentary on condition.

I'm still not convinced that the problem has been completely solved. It seems strange that the signal works in one direction (circuits A to B) but not the other (circuits B to A). I agree that X10 is a PITA... and not the animal rights group :lol:
However I can't see paying through the nose for a DC8 relay controller to go with my ACII. I honestly believe it is a condition of my house wiring and not the fault of the X10 or aqua controller, so I'll continue to search for ways to make it reliable.

 

[Illusion]

With your EVC ballasts make sure both the Ballast and the Reflector are grounded... Most people dont ground the Reflector... I hear it helps out a bit with noise from Electronic ballasts... I dont have a Dryer here Either but I used the Oven... Seemed to work pretty good...

James

 

[Kenfuzed]

Well I thought I had it all worked out, but by this afternoon this went down the drain again. With the powerline control plugged into the other circuit I lost any control over the first circuit once everything was running. Something is interfering with the signal between these two circuits yet bridging my 220 doesn't seem to make any difference.

I'm getting so aggrevated I'm ready to can the whole thing!

I had another idea, so maybe someone can chime in. Could I buy another Powerline module (control interface) and use one for each circuit? One would be plugged into circuit A, the other into circuit B. Both would connect via phone cables linked with a Y splitter at the AquaController. When the ACII sends it's signal it would send to both circuits, and since neither circuit seems to be able to talk to each other there shouldn't be any collision.

Any ideas on this?

 

[clp]

Add a second powerline interface will not work as the control synchronization signals will be out of phase between the two units and will result in incorrect commands being sent out. If the two circuits being on opposite phases is the root cause of your problem, then you will definitely need to install a signal bridge, or move one of the breakers so that both circuits are on the same leg of power.
Most likely the problem is being aggravated by electrical noise that is generated by some piece of equipment around your tank. You'll need to find out what that device is and either unplug it, or install a noise filter. Using a process of elimination is usually a good way to track down the noise generator. When something is not behaving correctly, try to manually turn it on/off about 10 times w/ the AquaController's control & status -> manual control. It should work 100% of the time. If it does not start shutting equipment off around your house (it's easiest to just shut off whole circuits at a time). When it starts working, find out what was appliance on the problem circuit. Once found install a X10 noise filter on the appliance.
Or you can avoid this hassle completely and have reliable control w/ our direct connect boxes (DC4, DC4HD, or DC8).

Curt