Advice on Blue Hippo Tang with White Dots

[MillerReef]

I am looking for some advice. I got a Blue Hippo Tang, Ocellaris Clownfish and Blue/Green Chromis from liveaquaria the other day - I did a freshwater dip and put them in my 10 gal QT. I noticed that the Tang had 4 sugar sized white dots on different parts of his body and that his fins looked a little detriorated when he arrived. Over the last few days the white dots have disappeared and the fins are looking better. No scratching, eating good and looking good as well. These are my first fish for my DT and I do not want to introduce ich to my main system but I also do not want to expose the fish to medication unecessarily. I have considered doing a Cupramine treatment to be safe but not sure if it is necessary. If there are no more signs of disease on the fish in the next 30 days, is it safe to put them in the DT? Can ich live for 30 days without developing white dots on fish? Could this have been something other than ich since there were only 4 dots? Looking for advice on how to handle this - thanks.

 

[RetroMKT]

For the last 10 years I have surgeon fishes specially the blue hippo he tends to have ich, at first when the water quality wasn't that good I used to have horrible ich atacks in the aquarium now with more water changes (once a month 20%) and good filtration The ich sometimes appears and leaves as a natural thing if you don't find dots in the next 30 days introduce your fish remember that algae is very important in surgeon food and reinforces their immune system

 

[BigBlueTang]

For the last 10 years I have surgeon fishes specially the blue hippo he tends to have ich, at first when the water quality wasn't that good I used to have horrible ich atacks in the aquarium now with more water changes (once a month 20%) and good filtration The ich sometimes appears and leaves as a natural thing if you don't find dots in the next 30 days introduce your fish remember that algae is very important in surgeon food and reinforces their immune system

I disagree with this post. It is extremely possible to have an ich free tank. If you see ich, it has not "gone away" and if you introduce the fish into the dt you are introducing ich to the dt. Start a tank transfer for the fish, to get rid of the ich. You are in the right step with a qt. Look at the stickys to see how to do ttm and/or any of the other methods.
My opinion.

 

[RetroMKT]

The best medicine that I have tried is RXP, cooper was too complicated to keep the adecuated concentration, low salinity may help, so good luck guys this is a sick horrible disease to completely disappear

 

[Mishri]

I didn't have good luck with copper for treating ich, I did like Chlorquine Phosphate (Sold as New Life Spectrum Ich Shield Powder (make sure you get powder, not the food). I don't think it is all that easy on the fish as I noticed decreased appetites while using and for a period after I stopped.

Tank Transfer Method is preferred, but takes more time and more money. (additional tanks/saltwater), but is safer for the fish.

With Chlorquine Phosphate it kills the ich on the fish, and swimming in the water, it doesn't kill the eggs... so treatment lasts until those are all likely hatched.. In an 80 degree aquarium most will be hatched within 2 weeks, but keep going for at least 4 weeks to be sure they have hatched.. Some wrasses and sea horses don't handle it well and will likely be killed by it.

 

[MillerReef]

Thank you all for the advice. I think I will definitely do a treatment. Like the idea of the tank transfer but not sure I have the time to put it all together this week. Probably leaning toward medication - looking into the options right now.