AEFW --help me set up system to QT/treat my sps

[dg3147]

Ok, so I have red bugs (getting interceptor tomorrow) AND I found several flat worms on a dip today (assumed to be AEFW). I need to treat the AEFW and set up a treatment system.

I think I have two options:
1) remove all corals and place on egg crate within my DT. Use Kalk to destroy residual tissue on rocks. Then dip in Revive every 6 days for 6 weeks. Will this work? Or will it leave worms in my system? Should I go buy Bayer Advanced instead of Revive?

2) set up some sort of QT tank. Is this better? What is minimum set up I can use? I assume I can change water using DT after weekly treatments. What about aeration? Filter? lighting? I don't mind spend a couple hundred bucks, but don't want to get too crazy. Can I get buy with a power head some cheap T5's and weekly water changes? Live rock from my sump?

 

[YoungREEFA]

Option 2 is the best WITH dips of bayer, best thing to do, im sure someone can chime in on the equiptment

 

[dg3147]

Is there a reason to not just keep them in the tank and dip? (assuming I will dip in clean salt water before placing coral back into tank). Seems like keeping in the tank will stress the corals less.

 

[footballdude2k3]

Here is what I am doing, and what I personally think would be best for stability, thus giving you the best chance at survival. I am getting a ton of wild acros on Friday, and I do not want pests, so I bought a 20L, extra light, got a stand for free. I am going to drill the 20, and have the return go into a filter sock that will drip into the sump.

The filter sock will catch any pests that would otherwise destroy my system, but give me the added bonus of having the same stable water parameters that the rest of my DT has. I have a friend in Wisconsin that has 1700 gallons in his house, and he has been doing this for years, has a ton of SPS and this works great for him.

 

[UTCReefer]

I beat the AEFW by setting up a QT tank to house all my Acro's and did weekly dips with bayer for a month, then every two weeks for a month, then one more time for good measure before moving them back. All in all it took 3 months before I moved them all back to my DT which had been completely acro free for the quarantine period.
Also I recommend super gluing over any eggs you see before your first dip.
What i noticed when dipping was that the first dip had hundreds of FW at the bottom of the bucket, the second just a handful and by the end of the first month there really werent any falling off the corals anymore. The last two months were to starve out the rest of them in the DT and to make sure the cycle was completely broken.

To prevent this from happening again ive personally stopped adding any corals or live rock thats not completely dried out to my tank . Well mostly anyways. If there is something i just cant live without I only take fresh cut frags which I dip in coral RX then spend some time inspecting both the coral and dip water under a 40x scope with lots of light for any signs of the AEFW or any other pests before adding it to my tank. If I find ANYTHING its not going in my tank. Its just not worth it for the trouble of getting rid of an AEFW infestation.

 

[UTCReefer]

Here is what I am doing, and what I personally think would be best for stability, thus giving you the best chance at survival. I am getting a ton of wild acros on Friday, and I do not want pests, so I bought a 20L, extra light, got a stand for free. I am going to drill the 20, and have the return go into a filter sock that will drip into the sump.

The filter sock will catch any pests that would otherwise destroy my system, but give me the added bonus of having the same stable water parameters that the rest of my DT has. I have a friend in Wisconsin that has 1700 gallons in his house, and he has been doing this for years, has a ton of SPS and this works great for him.

I considered doing this at one point to QT new corals. I wish i had at least tried it before i got hit with AEFW. I just wasnt sure if it would even work.

 

[dg3147]

Leaning towards keeping the corals in the main DT (but removed off rocks and epoxy applied as indicated) and just doing 6 weeks of dips in Bayer Advanced every 6 days. Will this handle the red bugs too? Or do I still need to use interceptor? There doesn't seem to be an advantage in creating a separate qt for this particular crop.

(though, seriously considering building a 20g non-sump coral QT for future use. what's the min set up for this?)

 

[82ndengineer]

Problem is even if you do it perfect in tank there is always a risk. Say you chip/frag something and a piece falls where you can't get to it. That piece may still have eggs or flatworms on it which will just lead to a re infestation. It's best just to qt separately and scour the dt for any remnants of acro to be 100% safe. Otherwise you might get lucky or you might not. Biggest question is, is it worth it having to possibly redo it?

 

[dg3147]

Problem is even if you do it perfect in tank there is always a risk. Say you chip/frag something and a piece falls where you can't get to it. That piece may still have eggs or flatworms on it which will just lead to a re infestation. It's best just to qt separately and scour the dt for any remnants of acro to be 100% safe. Otherwise you might get lucky or you might not. Biggest question is, is it worth it having to possibly redo it?

who knows what sort of pieces are laying around my one year old tank. I can be gentle with my frags --it's the ones that might be laying around somewhere unseen that I am worried about.

 

[YoungREEFA]

What if mr, red bug and a couple of his AEFW buddies decide to coral hop and when you take them out of the tank for a dip the little pests were moving to another coral, and are on your rocks, when the corals return they will go straight back to the coral most likely

 

[dg3147]

Opted to set up QT...My thread is here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2330882
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2330882