laura bolyard
New member
how can I remove it? I have been leaving my lights on longer than usual. will a fresh water dip or coral dip work? Brushing it off isnt getting all of it.
algae on zoas
- Thread starter laura bolyard
- Start date
Hello, what kind of algae is it?
Have you checked your phosphate levels?
How old are your lights?
You should purchase an Algae Blenny, I keep one in my tank.
Do you have a clean up crew? if not, I'd purchase an adequate amount based on your tank size.
I would also watch the photoperiod, decrease it or run a couple black out days once you have it under control.
I would be proactive in finding out the root cause of the algae bloom though.
Are you using tap water or R/O ? Tap should never be used, some will differ, but I say no no.
I would consider a compatible fish based on the types of corals you have which will graze as well.
I remember hearing recently that there is an article currently in one of the coral mags where someone used a ratio mixture of peroxide to kill algae. If I heard wrong, I stand corrected, but I remember glancing over the post a week ago someone. I will try to find it to share.
Freshwater or coral dip that I'm aware of will not kill the algae, but knowing what type of algae it is, I can give you a more definitive way to combat it.
Are you over feeding?
What is the temp of your tank?
Trying to think of other options, maybe someone else can weigh in to help you.
Good luck, I hope this helps and an update would be great. Hope you get a handle on it.
Mucho Reef
Have you checked your phosphate levels?
How old are your lights?
You should purchase an Algae Blenny, I keep one in my tank.
Do you have a clean up crew? if not, I'd purchase an adequate amount based on your tank size.
I would also watch the photoperiod, decrease it or run a couple black out days once you have it under control.
I would be proactive in finding out the root cause of the algae bloom though.
Are you using tap water or R/O ? Tap should never be used, some will differ, but I say no no.
I would consider a compatible fish based on the types of corals you have which will graze as well.
I remember hearing recently that there is an article currently in one of the coral mags where someone used a ratio mixture of peroxide to kill algae. If I heard wrong, I stand corrected, but I remember glancing over the post a week ago someone. I will try to find it to share.
Freshwater or coral dip that I'm aware of will not kill the algae, but knowing what type of algae it is, I can give you a more definitive way to combat it.
Are you over feeding?
What is the temp of your tank?
Trying to think of other options, maybe someone else can weigh in to help you.
Good luck, I hope this helps and an update would be great. Hope you get a handle on it.
Mucho Reef
Last edited:
90greefman
New member
Pics?
Outside of that mucho summed it up. I have chaeto in my sump that seems to work great in keeping algae levels down in my tank. I have a lot of snails, crabs of all varities to clean up. I have an algae blenny too. I dont overfeed. I only run my lights for 8 hours a day. I also have great water flow. I do regular water changes and keep my levels in check.
Solving an algae problem imo is trial and error. What I do above seems basic but it is a balance and works in my tank.
Outside of that mucho summed it up. I have chaeto in my sump that seems to work great in keeping algae levels down in my tank. I have a lot of snails, crabs of all varities to clean up. I have an algae blenny too. I dont overfeed. I only run my lights for 8 hours a day. I also have great water flow. I do regular water changes and keep my levels in check.
Solving an algae problem imo is trial and error. What I do above seems basic but it is a balance and works in my tank.
I think I'm having the same problem I just moved to a different house and had to resetup
my tank , so I put my zoos in a smaller tank. Bo I have this brown algae on them and only have are opening so I gave them a revive dip today and truer scrubbed sone of the algea off with a fine toothbrush ...
my tank , so I put my zoos in a smaller tank. Bo I have this brown algae on them and only have are opening so I gave them a revive dip today and truer scrubbed sone of the algea off with a fine toothbrush ...
Scopus Tang
New member
Coral magazine recommended a 5 minute dip in a solution of 50% saltwater and 50% over the counter hydrogen peroxide.
Thanks Scopus
QUOTE=koll12;17152085]Well I used revive and only a few are opening still I don't know what's going on anymore? I crush off this brown algae stuff and it right back next time I look at it.??? I guess I'm prob just going to lose half my stock[/QUOTE]
koll12, we have all experienced what you are going through and this is beatable. Reefing is like the life we live, we learn from our mistakes as well as our accomplishments. If you give up now, you've allowed reefing to beat you. I was heading out for a morning run, but came back to type this lengthy reply to help you. I say you can save that rock and your tank, so what-ah-say mate, are we going to do this or not? What you have is an abundance of macro ( Nuisance ) algae. You can do this girlfriend.
Here's what I want you to do Laura.
1. Prepare a well aerated 20 % water change with R/O water only. Aerate for 24 hours and match the temp and salinity exactly of your tank before adding it and yes, even matching the PH. You don't want to cause and issue while trying to correct another. Not doing so can possibly shock your system while doing a simple water change. Do another water change in 7 days the exact same way. It won't hurt your system if you do it right, trust me. This and what's written below worked for me many years ago.
2. Turn off your lights for 48 hours.
3. Check to make sure the bulbs are good as old bulbs can sometimes contribute to the algae bloom.
4. Check and double check your nitrates and phosphates with a very good test kit then double check them with a friend or LFS test kits of a different brand. Even slightly elevated levels of Nitrates will cause reduce calcification and can alter PH and Alk levels.
Phosphates can get into your water column via food sources, source water and some additives. Be proactive in making sure these are not a root cause. If feeding with frozen foods, be sure to thaw first in a cup of tank water, then strain/drain off all the water, then add just enough without over feeding to your tank. This liquid is often nutrient rich and you don't want it in your tank. You must use some phosphate removal media. I haven't use it in years so maybe someone can suggest a brand and type.
5. If you have a protein skimmer, then crank it up as it is the most natural and effective means of nutrient export which is what you need right now. If you think about the frothy foam from the ocean, which is nothing more than what your skimmer is doing, is a natural means of nutrient export. So using the skimmer right now is a must I think and empty the cup daily and clean it with warm water and a dedicated tooth brush. The down side is that you will be removing food for your filter feeding inverts, but there is adequate amounts that you won't starve them and your greater concern I think is knocking down the algae.
6. Check your heater, make sure it is set accurately, no higher than 80, I prefer 79 degrees. But for this issue, and according to A. Calfo, if you slowly lower your temp to 77 degrees and raise your PH to 8.5, this also will help control the outbreak. But make these adjustments carefully and slowly and it does work. Once the issue is resolved, slowly return these readings to your normal levels. You aren't going to solve this issue overnight but if you start today, you can slowly turn this around.
7. High silicates can and will also contribute to algae blooms which is why I'm against tap water usage for reef tanks as it is loaded with silicates.
8. Though polyps thrive in nutrient rich water, excessive nutrients is the line that's hard not to cross without remaining proactive. If you have any current mechanical filters, they must be cleaned and rinsed frequently as they will also accumulate nutrient rich gunk which will contribute to your problem. Even skimmers should be cleaned including the collection cups to prevent re-entry of what you have removed already. You can try using poly pads/filters, but again, you have to rinse and keep them clean.
9. A clean up crew is essential my friend. Natural predation via fish and inverts does the work for you 24/7. They will consume uneaten food, control algae and help with detritus buildup and they work for free. Pods, slugs, snails, limpets, chitons, crabs, urchins will all help, but all aren't needed.
10. Current, this is so vital and often over looked. Current feeds and exports waste, detritus, sediment etc. Insufficient current has been shown to contribute to cyano growth in stagnant areas of a reef tank. I even make it a habit once a month to take a power head and blow off my entire reef. Try it, you will be amazed at all the junk that is dislodged. It can then be removed via filters in an overflow or sump filters. I prefer and recommend current which hits most areas of your tank left and right.
11. Carbon is a must, run a high grade granulated activated carbon and only enough based on the size of your tank. It is great in the removal of organics in your system. You can use it in a media bag but be sure to keep the bag cleaned and rinsed. Rinse the bag weekly and discard/replace carbon every 2 or 3 weeks.
13 Choose an algae eating fish, ( a herbivores for the algae) are natural predators and will also help. The most popular are surgeon fish with are natural grazers and will mow the lawn for you like you won't believe. Algae Blennies are also great to have and watch.
14. Using a phosphate removal pad or media will work well also. There's much debate over whether to use Ferric hydroxide based or aluminum oxide based pads or media. You will have to decide which is best or maybe someone else can weigh in since I haven't used it in many years.
15. Manual removal of the algae and scrub with a tooth brush or wired brush.
I hope this helps, now go get'em tiger.
Mucho Reef
PS, 90greefman and Scopus Tang gave some great advice. You now have more than enough info to knock this down. Your mission, should you choose to except it, is to destroy that algae. This message will self destruct in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, BOOM !!!
koll12, we have all experienced what you are going through and this is beatable. Reefing is like the life we live, we learn from our mistakes as well as our accomplishments. If you give up now, you've allowed reefing to beat you. I was heading out for a morning run, but came back to type this lengthy reply to help you. I say you can save that rock and your tank, so what-ah-say mate, are we going to do this or not? What you have is an abundance of macro ( Nuisance ) algae. You can do this girlfriend.
Here's what I want you to do Laura.
1. Prepare a well aerated 20 % water change with R/O water only. Aerate for 24 hours and match the temp and salinity exactly of your tank before adding it and yes, even matching the PH. You don't want to cause and issue while trying to correct another. Not doing so can possibly shock your system while doing a simple water change. Do another water change in 7 days the exact same way. It won't hurt your system if you do it right, trust me. This and what's written below worked for me many years ago.
2. Turn off your lights for 48 hours.
3. Check to make sure the bulbs are good as old bulbs can sometimes contribute to the algae bloom.
4. Check and double check your nitrates and phosphates with a very good test kit then double check them with a friend or LFS test kits of a different brand. Even slightly elevated levels of Nitrates will cause reduce calcification and can alter PH and Alk levels.
Phosphates can get into your water column via food sources, source water and some additives. Be proactive in making sure these are not a root cause. If feeding with frozen foods, be sure to thaw first in a cup of tank water, then strain/drain off all the water, then add just enough without over feeding to your tank. This liquid is often nutrient rich and you don't want it in your tank. You must use some phosphate removal media. I haven't use it in years so maybe someone can suggest a brand and type.
5. If you have a protein skimmer, then crank it up as it is the most natural and effective means of nutrient export which is what you need right now. If you think about the frothy foam from the ocean, which is nothing more than what your skimmer is doing, is a natural means of nutrient export. So using the skimmer right now is a must I think and empty the cup daily and clean it with warm water and a dedicated tooth brush. The down side is that you will be removing food for your filter feeding inverts, but there is adequate amounts that you won't starve them and your greater concern I think is knocking down the algae.
6. Check your heater, make sure it is set accurately, no higher than 80, I prefer 79 degrees. But for this issue, and according to A. Calfo, if you slowly lower your temp to 77 degrees and raise your PH to 8.5, this also will help control the outbreak. But make these adjustments carefully and slowly and it does work. Once the issue is resolved, slowly return these readings to your normal levels. You aren't going to solve this issue overnight but if you start today, you can slowly turn this around.
7. High silicates can and will also contribute to algae blooms which is why I'm against tap water usage for reef tanks as it is loaded with silicates.
8. Though polyps thrive in nutrient rich water, excessive nutrients is the line that's hard not to cross without remaining proactive. If you have any current mechanical filters, they must be cleaned and rinsed frequently as they will also accumulate nutrient rich gunk which will contribute to your problem. Even skimmers should be cleaned including the collection cups to prevent re-entry of what you have removed already. You can try using poly pads/filters, but again, you have to rinse and keep them clean.
9. A clean up crew is essential my friend. Natural predation via fish and inverts does the work for you 24/7. They will consume uneaten food, control algae and help with detritus buildup and they work for free. Pods, slugs, snails, limpets, chitons, crabs, urchins will all help, but all aren't needed.
10. Current, this is so vital and often over looked. Current feeds and exports waste, detritus, sediment etc. Insufficient current has been shown to contribute to cyano growth in stagnant areas of a reef tank. I even make it a habit once a month to take a power head and blow off my entire reef. Try it, you will be amazed at all the junk that is dislodged. It can then be removed via filters in an overflow or sump filters. I prefer and recommend current which hits most areas of your tank left and right.
11. Carbon is a must, run a high grade granulated activated carbon and only enough based on the size of your tank. It is great in the removal of organics in your system. You can use it in a media bag but be sure to keep the bag cleaned and rinsed. Rinse the bag weekly and discard/replace carbon every 2 or 3 weeks.
13 Choose an algae eating fish, ( a herbivores for the algae) are natural predators and will also help. The most popular are surgeon fish with are natural grazers and will mow the lawn for you like you won't believe. Algae Blennies are also great to have and watch.
14. Using a phosphate removal pad or media will work well also. There's much debate over whether to use Ferric hydroxide based or aluminum oxide based pads or media. You will have to decide which is best or maybe someone else can weigh in since I haven't used it in many years.
15. Manual removal of the algae and scrub with a tooth brush or wired brush.
I hope this helps, now go get'em tiger.
Mucho Reef
PS, 90greefman and Scopus Tang gave some great advice. You now have more than enough info to knock this down. Your mission, should you choose to except it, is to destroy that algae. This message will self destruct in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, BOOM !!!
Last edited:
laura bolyard
New member
Thank you SOOOO much, that was quite a lot of info!!
I use rodi water, but have been getting it at a different place lately
my phosphates were just a bit high, have been running phosguard for three days
lights are 1 month old radiums, so the tank is getting more light than my old cheap ones
I HAVE been feeding more, went from few corals to several after decideing to keep the tank
nitrates are present, but low
have a great skimmer, new. old one was garbage!
I never run carbon, but maybe not a bad idea for a few days
The algae isnt bad, really, but it is on my zoanthids and my gorgonian. Gorg I just rub off every morning (its just on the tip) and seems fine, but this patch of zoas has it (only half the colony, but it came that way a couple of weeks ago). It must have been there when it was shipped because that half has never opened up. its green and I try to rub it off, not to much avail, and it just regrows. Incidently, both corals came in the same shipment.
my flow is decent, but could be better
decent clean-up crew
60 gallon pre-drilled
20 gl sump/fuge
2x 250 radiums
powerhead one korillia 2 and one korillia 3
pump hydor 750
mega skimmer
80 lbs live rock
system about 4 yrs
I use rodi water, but have been getting it at a different place lately
my phosphates were just a bit high, have been running phosguard for three days
lights are 1 month old radiums, so the tank is getting more light than my old cheap ones
I HAVE been feeding more, went from few corals to several after decideing to keep the tank
nitrates are present, but low
have a great skimmer, new. old one was garbage!
I never run carbon, but maybe not a bad idea for a few days
The algae isnt bad, really, but it is on my zoanthids and my gorgonian. Gorg I just rub off every morning (its just on the tip) and seems fine, but this patch of zoas has it (only half the colony, but it came that way a couple of weeks ago). It must have been there when it was shipped because that half has never opened up. its green and I try to rub it off, not to much avail, and it just regrows. Incidently, both corals came in the same shipment.
my flow is decent, but could be better
decent clean-up crew
60 gallon pre-drilled
20 gl sump/fuge
2x 250 radiums
powerhead one korillia 2 and one korillia 3
pump hydor 750
mega skimmer
80 lbs live rock
system about 4 yrs
