Am I ready for Acans Lord & Zoanthids

[CODE3EMT]

Ok folks, heres the current specs. Looking for some input from the experienced Reefers.
Red Sea Reefer 450 (running for 14 months)
Vertex Omega 180i Skimmer
Aqua Excel Return Pump
Kessil AP700 (1)
Vortech MP40wQD (2)
Apex Jr. with WXM, ALS, DOS (DOS is not hooked up yet)

Current livestock............. Blotched Anthias, Lyretail Anthias, Purple Tang, Yellow Flanked Fairy Wrasse, Mystery Wrasse, Bangai Cardinal, Melanurus Wrasse, Candy Cane Hogfish, Ocellaris Clown, a few C.U.C. (snails)

Temp 77 per APEX
Alk 9.3 Salifert
Cal 480 Salifert
Mg 1170 Salifert
Phosphate 0.25 Salifert
Nitrate 10 Salifert
pH 8.2 API
Ammonia 0 API
Salinity 1.023 Refractometer
Salt Brand Seachem


I would like to have strictly Acans Lord and Zoanthids. Tried a couple Montipora cap frags a couple months ago and I bleached them with the AP700 at 70%. Rookie move I know. It just seemed like they didn't have enough light, so I kept bumping it up.

 

[Zslaugh]

Ok folks, heres the current specs. Looking for some input from the experienced Reefers.

Red Sea Reefer 450 (running for 14 months)

Vertex Omega 180i Skimmer

Aqua Excel Return Pump

Kessil AP700 (1)

Vortech MP40wQD (2)

Apex Jr. with WXM, ALS, DOS (DOS is not hooked up yet)



Current livestock............. Blotched Anthias, Lyretail Anthias, Purple Tang, Yellow Flanked Fairy Wrasse, Mystery Wrasse, Bangai Cardinal, Melanurus Wrasse, Candy Cane Hogfish, Ocellaris Clown, a few C.U.C. (snails)



Temp 77 per APEX

Alk 9.3 Salifert

Cal 480 Salifert

Mg 1170 Salifert

Phosphate 0.25 Salifert

Nitrate 10 Salifert

pH 8.2 API

Ammonia 0 API

Salinity 1.023 Refractometer

Salt Brand Seachem





I would like to have strictly Acans Lord and Zoanthids. Tried a couple Montipora cap frags a couple months ago and I bleached them with the AP700 at 70%. Rookie move I know. It just seemed like they didn't have enough light, so I kept bumping it up.

I started with corals after 1 month. Sounds like you are well over qualified. With corals it is better to start with low light and move them up. You can kill them with high light really quickly, not so much with low light. I think people make out keeping corals to be harder than it actually is. Just do water changes, have a good light, good flow, and just let them go.


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[CODE3EMT]

Thanks for the advice, well I may pass on Zoanthids after reading horror stories about Paly Toxins:sad2:

 

[Mark9]

Thanks for the advice, well I may pass on Zoanthids after reading horror stories about Paly Toxins:sad2:

So over rated, don't let people scare you.
You tank looks capable for most corals, if not all.

 

[sde1500]

Thanks for the advice, well I may pass on Zoanthids after reading horror stories about Paly Toxins:sad2:

way overblown. Don't eat them, dont take them out of the water and poke your eye with them, etc. You'll be fine. The few stories you've read are FAR outweighed by the amount of people that have had no problems with them. I have 7 or 8 different zoas in my tank, and I am admittedly less careful than I should be. I don't wear gloves working with the tank, I have worked in the tank with small cuts on my hand, etc. Just wash up afterwards. Doesn't hurt to wear some eye protection when taking them out of water too.

 

[xlzerolx]

Don't eat them, dont take them out of the water and poke your eye with them, etc. You'll be fine.

This is LOL!

 

[Brieninsac]

Zoa's are great beginner corals and reasonably priced.

 

[crocogator106]

So over rated, don't let people scare you.
You tank looks capable for most corals, if not all.

I agree. I waited about 3 weeks after initial cycle and have both and their doing great and multiplying.

 

[Alavaster]

way overblown. Don't eat them, dont take them out of the water and poke your eye with them, etc. You'll be fine. The few stories you've read are FAR outweighed by the amount of people that have had no problems with them. I have 7 or 8 different zoas in my tank, and I am admittedly less careful than I should be. I don't wear gloves working with the tank, I have worked in the tank with small cuts on my hand, etc. Just wash up afterwards. Doesn't hurt to wear some eye protection when taking them out of water too.

Fun fact, chemically Paly-Toxin is an alcohol! :beer:

If you want, wear gloves when handling/fragging and make sure to wash your hands and tools well after. Also I believe the most dangerous variety is Palythoa Grandis, the super large polyp version. (usually in cinnamon, and green color.)

Edit: I murdered spelling

 

[kurt_n]

...
Temp 77 per APEX
Alk 9.3 Salifert
Cal 480 Salifert
Mg 1170 Salifert
Phosphate 0.25 Salifert
Nitrate 10 Salifert
pH 8.2 API
Ammonia 0 API
Salinity 1.023 Refractometer
Salt Brand Seachem
....

Obviously the fish do fine, since you've had this up for 14 months. How long did you take to put in all the fish? Just curious how long the bioload has been consistent, that's all.

As far as coral though, I'm thinking they would prefer that salinity up closer to 1.025-1.026. The fish would prefer it too, but won't be as fussy as the coral. I'd also probably suggest bumping to temp up a degree or two. Those are the two big things I see.

Nitrates are a little higher than you'd like, but you probably know that. Same with phosphates.

 

[thelawnwrangler]

Thanks for the advice, well I may pass on Zoanthids after reading horror stories about Paly Toxins:sad2:

hmm don't squeeze them in your eye you will be fine


actually take more precautions then that, but if you are safe no reason to fear.

You won't be fragging them for some time if ever so the risk is nil if you don't handle them or disturb them.

 

[sde1500]

Side note, no such this as an Acan Lord anymore. They were reclassified to Micromussa lordhowensis

 

[y4ngel]

Seems like you should be fine, good luck!

 

[kuzko]

You could put nems in there at this point...

 

[Rakie]

And it may sound dumb -- But I promise I asked -- Zoanthids have significantly less, to zero 'palytoxin'. So if you get some Zoanthids (not palythoa) you should be pretty safe.