Amount of Lighting for 90g?

jakaufman

New member
Looking to upgrade the lighting on my 90g to allow for some basic corals. Probably would look at SPS or LPS plus a clam and anenome.

What amount of lighting would I want to look for over my tank? I like the compact florescent fixture I got for my freshwater tank from AH Supply but the watts/gallon rule was pretty easy to figure out for it. Can I get away with a compact florescent for corals? I don't want to spend too much $
 
Forget the watt per gallon myth; for needed intensity you need a lot of watts and preferably with a narrow point source. What that means is metal halides. A 90 is rather deep and you can use T5's to keep most corals, however some of what you've mentioned are higher demanding specimens. Some clam species (the more popular ones) like crocea and maxima require a good amount of light as do any of the brighter colored acropora/SPS. Even the slightest of anemone species will require a minimum of moderate lighting but most prefer intensity.
 
well it really depends on the corals. PC lighting is good for softies and some LPS while t-5 is pretty much a step up from PC's. you can get all softies, most LPS and sometimes a monti cap SPS if you have the right lighting. it really isn't a "watts per gallon rule" as it is PAR, for example a 2-24 watt t-5 fixture is much more powerful than a 100 watt PC fixture. if i were you i would go ahead and buy Metal halide lights and save you the trouble from upgrading lights when you decide what you have is not enough and you want more corals :). some good websites to look on are:

www.hellolights.com
www.reefgeek.com

or any other reef website. most preferably RC's sponsors which can be located on the Sponser area of RC. HTH a bit!!!

Lionfishfinatic
 
MH is always a great route but with MH you have to be aware of your tank temp. They run hot and if that is an issue T5 is they way to go
 
The ultimate lighting source as of now is the solaris LED fixture, but it is still far to expensive IMO.

Personally, if i was you i would get two or three(ideal) 250watt metal halide fixtures.

I tinkered around with t-5's, which are nice, but it sucks having limitations. I want to be confident that i have the lights to keep any coral i desire. Also, i buy so that i don't regret later. My $0.02
 
T5s - cheaper, last longer, more energy efficient, less heat. I keep LPS, SPS (acros, stags, pocillapora, montipora). (4 54W T5 ho with ice cap reflectors). From what I hear, clams and some other SPS require stronger lighting. Also, the T5s do not give your tank the ripple effect.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10155277#post10155277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LionfishFinatic
it really isn't a "watts per gallon rule" as it is PAR,

PAR is seldom reached in reef tanks and is less important than intensity. Technically PAR is variable by each specimen's needs, but as a whole (in basic laymen terms) it is the full range of visible light between the spectrum of 400-700 nanometers. Thus a full spectrum 30watt florescent bulb will measure PAR in a more complete range than a 20K 250watt MH.

T5's with a proper reflector can generate the same intensity equal to a 250watt halide, although as mentioned you will lose the shimmer effect.

I have only read studies on the LED fixtures and the reports are all excellent until you read the initial cost and the fact that they haven't been around long enough to know the longevity of such a high priced item (I do admit I'd like to try them if only I had a few grand to throw away).

With a canopy already in place, I still recommend halides; a retro-fit 250watt DE MH will enable you to configure the lighting scheme with points of high intensity as well as lesser areas of light giving you more options or variety of corals.
 
Back
Top