another ick question

[ngarcia11892]

so i started my fallow period today and have a few questions, first iv read this but wanted to confirm but inverts such as snails, shrimp, crabs, and starfish cant carry the parasite correct? so i can leave them while the tank is fallow along with corals? would i be able to add more corals or anemones or shrimp during the fallow period or is this not a good idea? and last this is out of pure curiosity if the life cycle for marine ick is 21 days and it takes the free swimming parasite about 2 days to die why doesnt a fallow period of 4 weeks or 5 work and instead we have to go with 8 weeks, thanks every one!!!

 

[b0bab0ey]

Ich can "hitchhike" on a coral/invert but will eventually starve to death without a fish host to feed on. I don't completely understand the life cycle of Ich, but everything I've ever read suggests going fallow for at least 8 weeks to starve it out. In fact, now they are saying 9 weeks. I wouldn't add any new corals/inverts during the fallow period, unless you've already QT'd them for 8-9 weeks. You risk getting another nasty "hitchhiker" and undoing everything you're trying to accomplish by going fallow.

I know... it sucks....

 

[MrTuskfish]

so i started my fallow period today and have a few questions, first iv read this but wanted to confirm but inverts such as snails, shrimp, crabs, and starfish cant carry the parasite correct? so i can leave them while the tank is fallow along with corals? would i be able to add more corals or anemones or shrimp during the fallow period or is this not a good idea? and last this is out of pure curiosity if the life cycle for marine ick is 21 days and it takes the free swimming parasite about 2 days to die why doesnt a fallow period of 4 weeks or 5 work and instead we have to go with 8 weeks, thanks every one!!!

+1 to Bb0bab0ey's comments on hitchiking ich. Your pallow period time should start after your last introduction of anything wet.

Because some ich cysts 'don't follow rules' and hold on longer than 4 weeks to release their free-swimming parasites; more time is needed. the longer you wait, the better the odds at totally eliminating the parasite. I'd read the ich stickys at the top of this section of the forum; lots of good info. BTW, I hope you're going to use a QT on all new livestock and avoid a repeat of whatever happened.

 

[ngarcia11892]

oh you better believe i will, this is not enjoyable my only this is i need to get something small to quarintine coral or inverts cuz the one i have now ahs copper in it

 

[MrTuskfish]

oh you better believe i will, this is not enjoyable my only this is i need to get something small to quarintine coral or inverts cuz the one i have now ahs copper in it

Copper in the water, or are you referring to the old myth that silicon sealant in tanks holds copper?

 

[ngarcia11892]

well copper in the water for the ick, but it doesnt actually stay in the tanks afterwards??

 

[snorvich]

Ich can "hitchhike" on a coral/invert but will eventually starve to death without a fish host to feed on. I don't completely understand the life cycle of Ich, but everything I've ever read suggests going fallow for at least 8 weeks to starve it out. In fact, now they are saying 9 weeks. I wouldn't add any new corals/inverts during the fallow period, unless you've already QT'd them for 8-9 weeks. You risk getting another nasty "hitchhiker" and undoing everything you're trying to accomplish by going fallow.

I know... it sucks....

I do understand the life cycle of cryptocaryon irritans and the advice above is excellent.

 

[snorvich]

+1 to Bb0bab0ey's comments on hitchiking ich. Your pallow period time should start after your last introduction of anything wet.

Because some ich cysts 'don't follow rules' and hold on longer than 4 weeks to release their free-swimming parasites; more time is needed. the longer you wait, the better the odds at totally eliminating the parasite. I'd read the ich stickys at the top of this section of the forum; lots of good info. BTW, I hope you're going to use a QT on all new livestock and avoid a repeat of whatever happened.

Excellent advice. Quarantine!!!!

 

[MrTuskfish]

well copper in the water for the ick, but it doesnt actually stay in the tanks afterwards??

Copper is easy to remove with Cuprisorb or carbon. There is an old myth that copper will stay in the silicone seams and return. This is not true. Silicone can be stained, but will not absorb anything normal people have contact with. Copper can hang around in rock, decor, substrate, etc.; which is why none of those things should be used in a QT. Here's some good info on copper, its a commercial, but good info. Most, not all, of the info applies to all brands of copper. http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Cupramine.html

Oh yeah, Although I'm not suggesting everyone do it, I treat all new fish (as a preventative measure) with Cupramine. I have lots of fish and all have gone through the copper routine in the same 55 gal QT I got after moving 6 yrs ago. I also treat fish for a friend with a big tank. That is a lot of copper; but it is undetectable in my QT after I remove it. I wouldn't hesitate to use this tank as a reef tank. Many wholesalers & dealers constantly run some level of copper; if it was absorbed by the silicone, the tanks would be uninhabitable by anything.