Another Tunze failed. Looking for some help with this closed loop design.

canar

Addicted to bright lights
When I originally designed my tank my thought was to hide the big Tunze's in the cool rocks they sell. Right now I have 4 rocks with Tunze's in them and only one is working. They are out of waranty and the cost I was quoted to get them fixed was almost the price of new ones. The tank has been up for less that 2 years. I burried them in the rocks because I really thought they would last. I guess I was wrong. My thought now is to put together a closed loop for my tank. I refuse to drill it so this will all need to happen from the stand and through the canopy. Here is a picture of what I am looking at. I tried to get all the information needed in the picture. If you have any questions please let me know.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts!

Ted

cl.gif
 
Did you bury them in rocks, and not remove them to clean away the debris, including calcium deposits? That'll certainly do it.

Personally, I think the CLS without holes being drilled will be an eyesore. If you really dont want Tunzes again, maybe try some Vortechs. That black fin is only the flow of 1 1/2 Tunze 6105s (thats with 0 feet of headloss) and is 635 watts... Not very efficient at all, as opposed to the Tunze's ~50w of consumption.
 
The blackfin is actually 288 watts per their documentation. All of the tubing for the CLS will be in the canopy hidden. The only piece you would see is when the ends drop out of the canopy to enter the tank. I planned to use black PVC so it should not be too bad.

I did like the way the Tunze's worked. I just think if I can't put them in the rocks and expect them to last they will be more of an eyesore than the CLS.

Ted
 
I do agree. I picked the Tunze initially. They are just not reliable enough for me. For the price I expected them to last.

Different pump btw

blackfin.jpg
 
Ted,
This style of closed loop is possible, having components above the waterline, but it is not totally self priming. You need a secondary pump like an aqualifter to prime the system or a T, on the suction side with a watertight cap like canister filters have.
If your closed loop looses suction it will fry the pump in very short order, then when you start it back up agian it will leak.
Given the size of the tank a large strainer is necessary, on my closed loop the strainers are each 8" long and 2-1/2" across. Split the suction between two 2" strainers or bigger and make sure you have easy access to them. Friction fit is good for easy cleaning, mine aren't.

Otherwise, it should be fairly inconspicuous, and a decent idea. I run two reeflo pumps right now and my dad personally met the OM guy and he was very helpful.
 
I would consider drilling at least 1 hole to feed the pump. This would allow you to use a non-pressure/self priming pump and save bundles on electrical consumption.
 
Currently setting up a 265g tank with an OM super squirt connected to the return pump output and tunze powerheads.If you sell your old tunze heads I would buy them for parts.
 
Closed loops without drilling...

Closed loops without drilling...

If you want to go to school, take a look at the closed loop plans in this large build thread. I have seen this work, and it is remarkable.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1423726&perpage=25&pagenumber=6

Scroll down to the 11/16/2008 and following posts.

I am trying to emulate parts of Paul's plan in my tank, especially the closed feed to equalize pressure to all returns.

This guy knows his stuff.

JMHO.

LL
 
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