Im looking for some cheato for our 75 that I could pick up either thrusday (tomorrow) or friday sometime. Our tank is going through its first diatom bloom stage of the cycle, and I was thinking of running some cheato in it to help cut down on the length of the bloom. I have some at home (NY) in my 29gal that I will be bringing down next week after thanksgiving break, just wanted to get some in now so the free corals I got dont get covered in diatoms. (Yes I know I shouldnt have them in there yet but they were dying in someones tank and they gave them to me to see if I could get them to come back... If any live then I get them)
Anyone In Dover have some Cheato?
- Thread starter icy1155
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emonemo420
New member
what the heck is feric oxide hydroxide....is it cheap? cause i really need something cheap and easy to remove phosphates and silica from my tank as i still have some forms of diatoms in my tank and algae problems...
emonemo420
New member
wait wait wait are u saying add straight rust?? thats what my research is saying
kaptken
New member
cool your sea horses, Emo. no it's not exactly regular rust. there is FEROUS OXIDE, regular garden variety rust on the bottom of your truck, and then there is FERRIC OXIDE, a slightly different compound with different properties. or is it the other way around?
heres a link. im a bit off on my old chemistry but
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
and the one i use is whatever is lowest price at the time i need it. like this one from DFS.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13963&N=2004+113810
it works for me. iron oxide compounds are the best phosphate removers. but your problem might be silicates which promote diatom growth. but iron removes them too. the ferric hydroxide is use in the water treatment industry to remove, arsenic, phosphates and silicates amonst a host of other things. so its good stuff. very strong. the 795 gram size (1.75 pounds, about a liter) lasts me like 9 months to a year for my tanks. a little goes a long way.
remember green algea lives on nitrates and phoshates. diatoms, dust, live on silica in the water. a fuge with green macro eats the phosphates and nitrates. the low cost solution.
does that help clear the mud?
heres a link. im a bit off on my old chemistry but
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
and the one i use is whatever is lowest price at the time i need it. like this one from DFS.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13963&N=2004+113810
it works for me. iron oxide compounds are the best phosphate removers. but your problem might be silicates which promote diatom growth. but iron removes them too. the ferric hydroxide is use in the water treatment industry to remove, arsenic, phosphates and silicates amonst a host of other things. so its good stuff. very strong. the 795 gram size (1.75 pounds, about a liter) lasts me like 9 months to a year for my tanks. a little goes a long way.
remember green algea lives on nitrates and phoshates. diatoms, dust, live on silica in the water. a fuge with green macro eats the phosphates and nitrates. the low cost solution.
does that help clear the mud?
Last edited:
tat2tillidie
New member
i used phosgard and a phos pad in my wet dry and in a few days my phosphate levels were zero and i still use it and its still zero lol and within a week the diatoms went bye bye
emonemo420
New member
lol thanks ken...so another words if i get that product from Dr.FnS it will get rid of the silica and the phosphates at the same time right?
kaptken
New member
sounds right to me Emo,
that is what it does. poly pads and aluminum oxide work too, but dont have the same capacity for removing phosphates and silicates. ferric oxide hydroxide just has more oomph for the amount. it costs more, but i think the price diff between iron and aluminum and polypads is roughly proportional to the amount of phos and silicate and other things they remove. so, in the long run, about the same. if you have a low level problem the less potent, less expensive aluminum oxide and polypads work great. but for high level waste, go with the iron. Ferric oxide hydroxides, being more agressive, also takes it to a lower level. plus it removes some heavy metals and arsenic. which is its prime function in drinking water treatment. good stuff. worth the price. a little goes a long way.
but always keep a happy fuge and save bucks.
that is what it does. poly pads and aluminum oxide work too, but dont have the same capacity for removing phosphates and silicates. ferric oxide hydroxide just has more oomph for the amount. it costs more, but i think the price diff between iron and aluminum and polypads is roughly proportional to the amount of phos and silicate and other things they remove. so, in the long run, about the same. if you have a low level problem the less potent, less expensive aluminum oxide and polypads work great. but for high level waste, go with the iron. Ferric oxide hydroxides, being more agressive, also takes it to a lower level. plus it removes some heavy metals and arsenic. which is its prime function in drinking water treatment. good stuff. worth the price. a little goes a long way.
but always keep a happy fuge and save bucks.
Ok, so we have the Cheato and a few other macro algae's that we brought down from Mass and NY, but I was wondering what algaes people around here had. So far, I have Cheato, a little bit of grape caulerpa, what is called red grape caulerpa even though it isnt caulerpa, codium, blue ochtodes, and a mangrove that will be coming down after xmas. Does anyone in the dover area have some other assorted macros that they have extra of? Im looking for some biodiversity for my intank refugium/macro algae wall.
Thanks
Thanks
