API MasterReef Test Kit

nfrench2100

nfrench2100

New member
I bought a MasterReef test kit in addition to my Saltwater test kit last night. Wanted to provide my parameters to see how I'm looking so far!

PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0ppm
NitrItes: 0ppm
NitrAtes: 5.0ppm
Calcium: 420ppm
KH: 196.9ppm
Phosphates: 0.25ppm
Salinity: 1.025

Are there any other parameters I should be testing for? I'm still going through a Diatom bloom and haven't added anything to my tank as of yet. Was planning on going Thursday to buy my CUC.

Any advice is appreciated!
 
nfrench2100 said:
PH: 8.0 Great. Probably not worth testing for anymore.
Ammonia: 0ppm Great. Indicates cycle is done.
NitrItes: 0ppm Great. Indicates cycle is done.
NitrAtes: 5.0ppm Perfect
Calcium: 420ppm Perfect
KH: 196.9ppm 197 = 11dKH. It's a little high. It will come down as it's used. Test for this at least weekly. Possibly consider a salt mix that is closer to 8-9 (140-160ppm)
Phosphates: 0.25ppm A little high. Can be brought down over time with water changes, or GFO, or macro algae in a sump. Probably not worth worrying too much about unless you are having algae issues.
Salinity: 1.025 Great
Click to expand...

Hope that helps
 
nereefpat said:
Hope that helps
Click to expand...
Indeed it does! And I'm happy to hear that ALMOST, everything is where it should be. Although, I do not have a sump, only HOB skimmer. Would it be beneficial, or even possible, to have a HOB refugium? Possibly a simple AquaClear HOB filter? Because I have one of those laying around. Also, when would be a good time for a WC? I plan on doing 5 gallon WC's since I have a 30g halfmoon. And how often would be good for WC's?
 
you could do a refugium with an aquaclear HOB, I've done it before. I even cut a hole in the top cover to allow an LED light to fixed to it and grow chaeto of course this was before algae reactors were a thing ;)

would it be beneficial? that depends on what you want it for...if you want if for pod population then yes, if you want in order to grow chaeto for nutrient control then I would opt for an algae reactor over a refugium

If you haven't done a water change yet then I would do one now or in the next few days then get yourself on a bi-weekly schedule. 5 gallons is a 16% water change so you could get away with every other week or at least start with that and as you add to the bioload monitor your phosphates and nitrates and if needed increase your water changes to every week.
 
I agree with tjm about the fuge. It depends on what you want to accomplish.

In a 30 gallon tank, I probably wouldn't mess with non-essential equipment. Just lights, a heater, powerheads, and rock/sand. 5 gallons water changes either once a week or every two weeks, based N and P levels.
 
nereefpat said:
I agree with tjm about the fuge. It depends on what you want to accomplish.

In a 30 gallon tank, I probably wouldn't mess with non-essential equipment. Just lights, a heater, powerheads, and rock/sand. 5 gallons water changes either once a week or every two weeks, based N and P levels.
Click to expand...
Right on! Thanks guys. I've only got about 3 gallons of RO/DI left until LFS opens again on Thursday (they're closed Monday-Wednesday for maintenance and cleaning and I hate it! Lol) And the other LFS is full of a-holes and I absolutely refuse to use them. So Thursday I'll stock up on RO/DI water and do my first water change. I'm also about to set up an ATO system (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquahub-diy-top-it-off-kit-premium.html) this one particularly. Seems to be pretty simple I'd say. Anyone have anything bad to say about that ATO?
 
I used that ATO for 5+ years.. worked perfect..

Its about as simple as it can get but it does lack some "extra" redundancy features that a reef controller or better unit would have (running timeout,etc..)
 
When time and money allows, put a RODI unit on your shopping list. That way your not at the mercy of the LFS when you need water and you have the ability to make and store RODI water for routine changes and emergencies.
 
mcgyvr said:
I used that ATO for 5+ years.. worked perfect..

Its about as simple as it can get but it does lack some "extra" redundancy features that a reef controller or better unit would have (running timeout,etc..)
Click to expand...
How big is the storage tank that comes with it, or does it even come with one? And would I be better off buying a larger storage unit for my RODI
 
Desert Sea said:
When time and money allows, put a RODI unit on your shopping list. That way your not at the mercy of the LFS when you need water and you have the ability to make and store RODI water for routine changes and emergencies.
Click to expand...
What would be a decent RODI unit? I just looked them up and there's so many lol. 4 stage, 5 stage, 6 stage...
 
A lot depends on the quality of the water your starting with and the production rate your looking to get. A unit with a second DI chamber will help produce water with the lowest TDS and make the best use of the DI resin. Have a water sample done of your water to see what the TDS level your starting off with and consult with one of the RODI vendors for a suggestion on which unit works best for you. The good thing is that the majority of the RODI systems allow for expansion so even if you started with a 4 stage you could always add additional chambers to make it a 5 or 6 stage. Invest in a decent unit and try to stay away from the economy units the chain stores sell.
 
nfrench2100 said:
How big is the storage tank that comes with it, or does it even come with one? And would I be better off buying a larger storage unit for my RODI
Click to expand...

Thats just the relay kit/float switches.. you still need to add a storage tank in whatever shape/size you want and a pump..

Size of storage tank should be enough that you don't need to fill it up that often yet if the pump happens to stick on its not enough water to overflow your tank or change salinity drastically..

Something that holds a couple gallons (2-3) is probably fine for you..
That should last a week or so..
 
mcgyvr said:
Thats just the relay kit/float switches.. you still need to add a storage tank in whatever shape/size you want and a pump..

Size of storage tank should be enough that you don't need to fill it up that often yet if the pump happens to stick on its not enough water to overflow your tank or change salinity drastically..

Something that holds a couple gallons (2-3) is probably fine for you..
That should last a week or so..
Click to expand...
Ok cool. I am going to order it today!
 
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