Avoiding ich

Shellyfish

New member
I am trying to figure out the best way to avoid ever getting ich again. Obviously fish will all be QT'd. What about corals/inverts? There aren't too many more I want to add at this point (of course there will still likely be the ones I come across that I have to have lol). How likely is it that ich is introduced into a tank by a coral? What steps do people take to avoid this? Do you have a coral/invert QT? How long do you leave them in there? Do any of those coral dips work for ich? I've also heard about FW dipping corals, but that scares me. Any input would be great!
 
Some coral dips help with it ,but the best thing is to get a UV starilizer. It kills alot of parasites. and if you have tangs i thing it will be a very good investment :)
 
Unfortunately a UV sterilizer will have little effect in a single tank system. If properly sized, it will help with tanks that share water.
 
Best practice quarantine protocol

My suggested protocol is to use tank transfer for all new specimens to insure against cryptocaryon irritans. 12 days and two 20 gallon tanks is all it takes.

The initial receiving tank is temp and SG adjusted to the bag water( SG a few points couple of points lower than the bag water is ok but not higher) This obviates the need for drip acclimation and prolonged stays in bag water where pH can rise and ammonia toxicity can increase once the bag is opened. This is particularly important after prolonged stays in the bag.

During the 12 day tank transfer process ( 3 day stays 4 transfers, move fish on the morning of days 4,7,10,13) observe for other maladies. Since there are no meds to interact with in the transfer tanks which contain freshly mixed salt water aged and aerated overnight , use an ammonia detoxifier during each 3 day period. Bound copper products for example can't be safely used with ammonia detoxifiers as more toxic free copper occurs with lethal copper toxicity,even though total copper measures the same.

If there is reason to suspect infestation with brooklynellosis, velvet or flukes , do a formalin bath before starting treatment with copper for velvet, formalin for brooklynellosis or prazi pro for flukes.

Since not all maladies will present symptoms in the 12 days( flukes can easily be missed, velvet can take up to 30 days to present), use a larger cycled QT tank for an additional 2 to 4 weeks of observation depending on the condition of the fish with treatment as necessary.

Most fish receive no medications yet all are effectively prophylactically treated for ich,the most common killer

Ammonia is monitored and has never been an issue during the 3 day stay but a detoxifier is added just in case, The cycled tank takes care of itself.

BTW there is no need to worry about nitrite or nitrate.
 
Thanks for the input snorvich, I was hoping you'd chime in. That sounds good for fish, but what about corals and inverts? Do you have some sort of protocol for them? Or are they unlikely to transfer the parasite into the tank?
 
Thanks for the input snorvich, I was hoping you'd chime in. That sounds good for fish, but what about corals and inverts? Do you have some sort of protocol for them? Or are they unlikely to transfer the parasite into the tank?

Unless you are buying from a fellow reefer (who may have it in his/her tank), the risk level is very low. Still, I always dip (revive) corals (not because of parasites for fish) and isolate for three days. Still, the odds are very low as corals and inverts cannot host the parasite.
 
Thanks! That makes me feel much better! I don't plan on adding a lot more to the tank, but I don't want to take chances with what I do add!
 
Unless you are buying from a fellow reefer (who may have it in his/her tank), the risk level is very low. Still, I always dip (revive) corals (not because of parasites for fish) and isolate for three days. Still, the odds are very low as corals and inverts cannot host the parasite.

I do not understand how isolating a coral/invert for 3 days makes it safe, when it takes 9+ weeks of going fallow in a DT to do the same. Say the coral/invert you just bought came from a heavily infested tank? A lot of LFS mix fish with their corals/inverts or all their tanks are tied into the same system (with no UV). I'm not trying to be argumentative here, just trying to wrap my mind around this. I would *love* to only QT corals/inverts for 3 days if I thought it was safe to do so!
 
I do not understand how isolating a coral/invert for 3 days makes it safe, when it takes 9+ weeks of going fallow in a DT to do the same. Say the coral/invert you just bought came from a heavily infested tank? A lot of LFS mix fish with their corals/inverts or all their tanks are tied into the same system (with no UV). I'm not trying to be argumentative here, just trying to wrap my mind around this. I would *love* to only QT corals/inverts for 3 days if I thought it was safe to do so!

The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish" even though this is actually under the skin not on top of it.

After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont.

Protomonts will not attach to inverts. However, in display tanks, substrate is the attachment of choice. The remainder of the life cycle is why you should leave the display tank fallow for 9 weeks (some say 10 weeks) If you do not transfer water after quarantining corals or other inverts, you will be quite safe.

Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die.

In theory it is remotely possible to have a theront brought in with a coral although it is highly unlikely. But that is what the three day isolation (and in my case dip with Revive or Coral Rx) is for.
 
The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish" even though this is actually under the skin not on top of it.

After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont.

Protomonts will not attach to inverts. However, in display tanks, substrate is the attachment of choice. The remainder of the life cycle is why you should leave the display tank fallow for 9 weeks (some say 10 weeks) If you do not transfer water after quarantining corals or other inverts, you will be quite safe.

Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die.

In theory it is remotely possible to have a theront brought in with a coral although it is highly unlikely. But that is what the three day isolation (and in my case dip with Revive or Coral Rx) is for.

Thank you for the clarification. As always, it's much appreciated. :)
 
Ok lol so lets sayi have a fishthat has ich now they all have it .they are in the display tank .so i take all the fish out and flush them down the toilet (no i really would not ) ..now there is no fish in the display tank .i wait lets say a 2 months .to add more fish .am i ich free again
Ps sorry for the bad example bout the toilet
 
Ok lol so lets sayi have a fishthat has ich now they all have it .they are in the display tank .so i take all the fish out and flush them down the toilet (no i really would not ) ..now there is no fish in the display tank .i wait lets say a 2 months .to add more fish .am i ich free again
Ps sorry for the bad example bout the toilet

Wait 10 weeks to be safe and you are good to go.
 
2-3 month with no fish not bad (knock on canopy) wow so people qt not to lose there money on fish ...

So if i have no fish in the display tank for 2-3 months that means i dont have to run a skimmer

A strange comment and a strange question. People quarantine because they, as conscientious aquarists want to provide the best environment for the animals they have agree to take care of. Some people have a very significant embedded base of fish that they do not wish to lose. I know some of mine are not replaceable.

Assuming a reef environment, people still feed their shrimp and potentially their corals. Worst case is they want to maintain their biological filter so they do feed. Running a skimmer is something that should be done.
 
Well I've gotten the cupramine up to .4, I did it over 4 days so I hope that is slow enough. Everyone but the new guy is eating well and they all seem happy enough. I was thinking of waiting 12 weeks but I see you say 10, is there any point to doing 12 or should I be pretty safe with 10 weeks? I'm also thinking I'll have to add them slowly back into the tank so there is not so much bioload all at once right?
 

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